What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Very nice model John. After I get finished with the classic point you sent me I'm planning on trying my hand at a frame handle for the RWHunter you saw. I can get it out of the 1.5" stick I already have if I do the guard separate so going to give it a shot.

I agree the ratio is off a bit. Looks a tad long.
 
Got a few project irons in the fire. Ordered a PID, thermo couple and shield from auberins so I can get a better handle on my HT temps which will be used in my crude forge for a couple weeks till I can order some kaowool and coating material to make a good forge. Ordered a cheaper PID, thermo couple and ssr to make a plug and play unit that will be used primarily for my quench tank. Ordered a Apex edge pro so I can get a better edge on my blades. My office just picked up a 50k printer for making custom labels, so I'm drawing up some art for stickers with my name, logo and info to go out with my knives. And working on a Bob Loveless design classic drop point hunter out of 1075 (thanks Kuraki supposed to be nice this weekend so maybe I'll get that camo done) with brass guard and Autralian ringed gidgee scales waiting on delivery and will try my first attempt on a hamon, which will be used to trade to my buddy I gave my very first knife to I want back.
 
Finished building my grinder that I drew up. Still waiting for aluminum bar stock to make tool arm for my small wheel and tool rest. Lots of design elements from a guy named Sebastian Larsson major props to him.

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tommywoh said:
Finished building my grinder that I drew up. Still waiting for aluminum bar stock to make tool arm for my small wheel and tool rest. Lots of design elements from a guy named Sebastian Larsson major props to him.

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Very nice, looks well built. If it were me, I'd cut some material off the part of the platten that connects to the tool arm so you have a spot to use on the left side of the platen when grinding. You'll definitely find it useful. If you have the access to get it done I'd almost move the 2 bolts that hold the platen plate with the slots out some so you could cut out a larger section for even better use of that side.

I wish I'd have done that on mine from the start.

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pleasanthill said:
Very nice, looks well built. If it were me, I'd cut some material off the part of the platten that connects to the tool arm so you have a spot to use on the left side of the platen when grinding. You'll definitely find it useful. If you have the access to get it done I'd almost move the 2 bolts that hold the platen plate with the slots out some so you could cut out a larger section for even better use of that side.

I wish I'd have done that on mine from the start.

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I see what you mean I was planning to do that soon but never got around to it because I don't use slack belt that often. But when I do I use the section between the tracking wheel and platen


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Blade ready for handle

[video=youtube_share;4Nuhq31V640]http://youtu.be/4Nuhq31V640[/video]

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Riccardo Mainolfi
 
Tommywoh, I will second Pleasanthill's recommendation. I also made my grinder like yours initially. You almost have to have the cutout like he shows. If you don't, you can only grind a blade on the right side. You won't be able to get into the plunge line with the left side of your platen (unless you flip the blade and grind edge down on the right side). It's not just a slack belt thing. I had to fix mine the first time I used it.
 
mknife said:
This is a custom order...




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Riccardo Mainolfi
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I am doing that same design (without the serrations). The customer's dad has a schrade/ loveless PH-2 and he wants something similar. The handle contouring has been giving me fits.
 
kuraki said:
Designing an integral frame/guard for my stabby S7 Bowie. Have a 6.1 x 2 x 1 brick of grade 5 Ti coming to mill this out of. Need to make a wood model before I make any chips. Something about the sub hilt to butt spacing ratio looks off to me.

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Try angling the subhilt to match the curve of the spine. Also, anybe try a sculpted subhilt to see how that looks.
 
I think i know what you mean by sculpted. There will also more than likely be some changes to an as machined model versus finished product as there are some contours I simply don't have the talent to model but will grind in to on the machined piece. Also i need to rotate the butt of the frame down slightly. it will center the tang more and get the spine of the frame in line with the spine of the blade.
 
Make a wood model to fit to the hand. Measure those dimensions and enter them into the program. By sculpted, I mean use the same profiles and curves as the main guard, but scaled to the smaller size. I agree with dropping the but. :thumbup:
 
Yep that's the plan. I'll probably mill the first one from aluminum as a test when I get to that stage, just to be sure as well.
 
It's been a while! Right now we're prepping for the local hunting and fishing show we do each year. Down to the wire now, the show starts a week from today! Working on some big batches of blades including our new flipper.

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Folder lock bars
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Found a local guy that has a stash of wood that's been sitting in his shop for a decade. Got some from him to try my hand at processing handle material. Pretty good haul for not having a clue what to look for or how to cut it.
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