What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

[chavez556]

This one is going to Colorado. 5/32" 0-1 with Bos heat treat.

 

[12345678910]

This one is going to Colorado. 5/32" 0-1 with Bos heat treat.
View attachment 414704

I understood that BOS only HT'ed air-hardening steels.

Has that changed ?

 

[bronyblacksmith]

right now I am working on a 7.5 inch chefs knife that I am getting to a high polish.

 

[chavez556]

I understood that BOS only HT'ed air-hardening steels.

Has that changed ?

They will do oil quench steels as long as its <10" . I guess their dip bucket is only so big. They c ryo everything, even the carbon steels.

 

[HallHandmade]

Very nice Ian,
May be my Fav from you.

Thanks!

I might be starting to get the hang of this crap.

Very nice work guys :thumbup:
Ian
You have to do the rest of us a favor and do a video on how and what you grind with. I think most of the rest of us have some catching up to do! I want to see the magic! Such nice grinds.

John

I've had a couple requests for this, one from another maker and one from a curious customer. This will probably happen, as soon as I have enough money to buy enough beer and pizza to bribe one or more of my friends into coming over and videotaping me.

 

[Willie71]

Ian, too bad you are so far away. I used to do a lot of AV and have the equipment to do a nice HD video. I would have brought my own beer and pizza!

 

[aarongough]

It was a pretty crazy weekend for me! I bashed out a quick prototype of a smaller knife, and also moved into my new workshop!

The knife is a very small version of the Resolute that I'm thinking about making. It's 6-3/8" overall. I can't decide if I want to do small blade, small handle... Or small blade big handle. If you guys have any thoughts on this I'd be happy to hear them!

I made this one from 5/32" thick steel in the vain hope it would work out so I could get it waterjet cut with my other Resolutes, but not so. It's like a tiny wedge, useless for anything requiring deep cuts. The next prototype will be 3/32" or thinner.

Moving to the new shop was stressful, but thankfully everything went very well. No injuries, accidents, or damaged machinery. My lathe got some flash rust on the compound slide and a tiny bit on the ways due to exposure to snow, but that's the worst of it from what I've seen so far.

Moving the lathe was fairly terrifying. This thing is 'small' but still weighs 450lbs and is very top-heavy. I bought some slings and a shop crane specifically for the task, with some patience it turned out to go smoothly:

I made a dolly board from some birch ply and 4 of the nice Caster wheels from Lee Valley. This thing turned out to be the star of the day, moved everything in the shop over rough floors, bumps and even snow without a problem!

This is what the new shop looks like now, it's 525 sq ft, used to be a pole dancing studio of all things. The building seems well maintained and quiet. I'm looking forward to not having to think about my surroundings so much after coming from the shared workshop where I had to worry about managing the place!

I honestly didn't realize I had so much stuff! We filled a 16ft cube van right to the brim. Also I learnt an important lesson: never move in winter!

My friends who helped with the move were real stars! My mate that drove the truck was a legend, at one point he had to turn the truck in a space that was only about 4' longer than the truck, amidst about 6" of snow! I'm proud of the teamwork that let us get that done without smashing into anything!

It was a good weekend all-in-all!

If you guys have any 'must know' tips for setting up a shop I'm all ears!

 

[Bob Ohlemann]

If you guys have any 'must know' tips for setting up a shop I'm all ears!

Keep everything on wheels that doesn't absolutely need to be stationary! Shelving is a great example. No matter how much time you spend coming up with a plan, you will want to move things around later. For the things that do need to be stationary, setting them up to be easily moved with a pallet jack will pay big dividends down the road.

Bob

 

[JMJones]

I have been forging some Japanese style bladesmithing hammers.

 

[JMJones]

And a razor.

 

[aarongough]

Keep everything on wheels that doesn't absolutely need to be stationary! Shelving is a great example. No matter how much time you spend coming up with a plan, you will want to move things around later. For the things that do need to be stationary, setting them up to be easily moved with a pallet jack will pay big dividends down the road.

Bob

Cool, I will keep that in mind when I'm working on making my new benches and such.

 

[seamus]

I'd bought the 9" steel disc years ago and had it on my DC variable motor till I brokeit down to use the motor for my horizontal grinder. Talking to a local motor and control panel company, I found a new, but no longer manufactured 1HP Reliance (US) motor with a piggy-back, reversible VFD for $200. I also had a 100 pound pedestal free from a construction site. A couple pieces of unistrut and some scrap MDF faced with stainless put me ready to use. Oh, the wire for the cord and the plug cost me another $20.

 

[chavez556]

View attachment 414963

I'd bought the 9" steel disc years ago and had it on my DC variable motor till I brokeit down to use the motor for my horizontal grinder. Talking to a local motor and control panel company, I found a new, but no longer manufactured 1HP Reliance (US) motor with a piggy-back, reversible VFD for $200. I also had a 100 pound pedestal free from a construction site. A couple pieces of unistrut and some scrap MDF faced with stainless put me ready to use. Oh, the wire for the cord and the plug cost me another $20.

This is really cool. Nice score.

Btw I love the wood work rest.

 

[Shaw Blades]

I'm trying my first sale on bladeforums. Not going too well so far. The knife actually turned out really good. The blade is a little over 3 inches and it can cleanly slice 3/4" free hanging hemp rope. Check the video:

[video=youtube_share;gYsHg-y2WDk]http://youtu.be/gYsHg-y2WDk[/video]

 

[Karburized]

Finished HT'ing a couple of prototypes and a production model. All 52100 at 62-63. I think I'm going to pull back the point on the slicer.

Coated with magic marker, finished beveling and hand finishing a production 8". God, I HATE hand finishing, but it's really the only way to get that look. Suffice to say I cheat a little and use Scotch Brite.

Buffing out the handle and mosaic pin on a different build.

 

[Hengelo_77]

Here´s a few I am working on.

A kitchenknife for myself with a blackwood handle. I love it´s subtile grain!
I feel I am getting better at contouring a handle as well.
A scandi style with zebrano handle that will be a shop knife and a first stacked leather handle.
I like the feel and looks of the leather handle!

I like working on the details. Filing a rounded "slot"(what is the correct term?) and handsanding it.
Love it

 

[Willie71]

The Zebrano is nice to work with. I have a lot of scrap leftover from my cabinets. I need to find a way to finish it without darkening it. If you like subtle grain, try Paduak as well. It has a deep red/burgundy tone with a mild chatoyance. If I'm not confused, the slot is called a "flute."

 

[redsquid2]

Here´s a few I am working on.

A kitchenknife for myself with a blackwood handle. I love it´s subtile grain!
I feel I am getting better at contouring a handle as well.
A scandi style with zebrano handle that will be a shop knife and a first stacked leather handle.
I like the feel and looks of the leather handle!

I like working on the details. Filing a rounded "slot"(what is the correct term?) and handsanding it.
Love it

very nice handle shaping on that kitchen knife.

 

[NickWheeler]

Nick,

Was that the one that the customer sent you a really nice drawing?

Bad water quenches?

Ian-


Yep, same project....

Attempt #1 was forged from W2, rough ground, and oil quenched. When quenched, the hardening line was too close to the edge, so I redid it. Got the same thing. Repeat...

A lot of guys don't know this, but a simple steel that's differentially hardened in a water quench, will curve upward (in a Japanese sword this is called sori). Well, with an oil quenched blade, it will pull downward. After a few quenches that didn't deliver what I wanted, the blade went from a khuk to an f'ing boomerang! :grumpy:

I've tried to fix it several times and it just won't cooperate.

Attempt #2 was forged in 52100... I got a little "hammer happy" and left hammer marks that were in places they shouldn't be. It might end up a gardening tool here at home...

Attempt #3 is 52100, and other than being a whole bunch of work, has been cooperating so far. :foot:

 

[Willie71]

Ian-


Yep, same project....

Attempt #1 was forged from W2, rough ground, and oil quenched. When quenched, the hardening line was too close to the edge, so I redid it. Got the same thing. Repeat...

A lot of guys don't know this, but a simple steel that's differentially hardened in a water quench, will curve upward (in a Japanese sword this is called sori). Well, with an oil quenched blade, it will pull downward. After a few quenches that didn't deliver what I wanted, the blade went from a khuk to an f'ing boomerang! :grumpy:

I've tried to fix it several times and it just won't cooperate.

Attempt #2 was forged in 52100... I got a little "hammer happy" and left hammer marks that were in places they shouldn't be. It might end up a gardening tool here at home...

Attempt #3 is 52100, and other than being a whole bunch of work, has been cooperating so far. :foot:

I'm glad (not for you) to be aware that even experienced people have to start projects over. My scrap drawer is getting full. I am working on a dagger, and the blade is attempt 2, the guard is attempt 4, but the frame handle is attempt 1 so far :grumpy: