What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

I recently sold these two knives to a fellow BF member, Fodderwing, he's very active in Traditionals. Anyhoo what interested him was that they were handled out of the same piece of wood, a pretty darn cool of dyed, stabilized maple:

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While each of my knives comes with a sheath already. The customer always has the option of ordering an additional sheath. This is what Fodderwing ordered:

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Thought some of you might enjoy the process of oak carving a sheath. I did a little WIP over in Sheaths and Such. Give er a look see:

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/fodderwing-gets-some-new-pants.1658741/

Any questions always welcome.
 
It's been a little while since I've been able to work on it, but I plan on getting back to it pretty quickly. Here's a forged 1075 hunter with wrought iron and curly maple. It still needs a good bit of work, but the handle is bedded with two locator pins between the handle and the back of the guard so I can remove everything & polish out the hamon after I finish shaping and sculpting the handle and guard, as well as etch the guard after it's finished.

Here's the guard fitted up:



And the handle bedded, pinned to guard, and then everything rough profiled:




~Paul
My Youtube Channel
... (Just some older videos of some knives I've made in the past)
 
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First kitchen blade with hollow grind from both side :) 1.5mm 1.2519 steel and about 0.10mm on edge now ...will cut I hope :p Take me 15 minutes to grind bevels and all afternoon to make that bolster and handle ......... I hate that last few millimeters , why they are always problematic :mad::mad::mad: Now handle and that bolster are jammed ....any tricks to get it out without use of hammer , all I need now is to break that thin tang :D
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N Natlek

Not sure if this is what you're asking, but just get a decent length of wood, like a 2x2" (65x65 mm) and cut out a channel in the center of it starting from the bottom up to about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way to the top of the wood, so that you can slide the piece of wood over the blade with the two bottom "feet" on either side of the channel resting on the face of the guard, then just lightly hammer the top of the wood to knock the guard back off. Use some tape or a thin piece of leather on the guard face to protect it from any scuffs from the wood. I just put the blade in the vise with a temporary sheath made from shop towels whic is wrapped in painters tape and then I put leather padding on both sides of the blade between the vise jaws to make sure not to mar up the blade while tapping of the guard. Hope that makes sense.


Edited to add: Some light but firm taps with the hammer shouldn't hurt the tang at all, as long as you aren't hitting the wood at an angle and pushing the guard to the side a bit. Just make sure both "feet" of the wood are touching the top of the guard evenly and hit straight down.


~Paul
My Youtube Channel
... (Just some older videos of some knives I've made in the past)
 
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Two Petty Chefs, 15n20, 6.5" cutting edge, a little over 11.5" OAL. African Blackwood with Red liners and natural sycamore
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Need to work on the pin burns on the sycamore.
 

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