What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

[Maelstrom78]

Stabilizing some Maple and redwood.

 

[Maelstrom78]

Double post

 

[AVigil]

coming to the finale.

 

[Gilbert M]

I have only been making kitchen knives the last couple of years and was missing hunters and bowies so I decided to make this little hunter also my first mosaic damascus. I didn't have much time today but I peened and polished 4 pins. Hopefully in the next couple days I can bed the tang and peen the final pin.

 

[Stang Bladeworks]

Great stuff on here.

I have been working on this fillet knife for my dad as a suprise. It needs some work yet but its coming along.

 

[AVigil]

Just need to put an edge on it.

 

[Laredian]

I have posted some smaller EDC Knives a few pages back an I wanted to show the finished package with sheath and such:

The two sheaths were decorated with two sorts of basketweave pattern.

 

[DanF]

Multi-function (B&T, EDC, or Paring knife). 15n20, OAL 7.5" This is the second I have made using the figured wild cherry I harvested from my property.

 

[A.McPherson]

L Laredian , I’m diggin’ that one with the black Micarta! Very nice!

 

[Kevin Kf knives]

Multi-function (B&T, EDC, or Paring knife). 15n20, OAL 7.5" This is the second I have made using the figured wild cherry I harvested from my property.
View attachment 1123688

I love using wood I've saved from the garbage/firewood pile. Big fan of cherry too.

 

[Natlek]

N Natlek

Not sure if this is what you're asking, but just get a decent length of wood, like a 2x2" (65x65 mm) and cut out a channel in the center of it starting from the bottom up to about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way to the top of the wood, so that you can slide the piece of wood over the blade with the two bottom "feet" on either side of the channel resting on the face of the guard, then just lightly hammer the top of the wood to knock the guard back off. Use some tape or a thin piece of leather on the guard face to protect it from any scuffs from the wood. I just put the blade in the vise with a temporary sheath made from shop towels whic is wrapped in painters tape and then I put leather padding on both sides of the blade between the vise jaws to make sure not to mar up the blade while tapping of the guard. Hope that makes sense.


Edited to add: Some light but firm taps with the hammer shouldn't hurt the tang at all, as long as you aren't hitting the wood at an angle and pushing the guard to the side a bit. Just make sure both "feet" of the wood are touching the top of the guard evenly and hit straight down.


~Paul
My Youtube Channel
... (Just some older videos of some knives I've made in the past)

Thanks for help . It was not easy but I succeed to get it out...my magic knife vise help a lot.........
Look that jew.............beautiful wood , I wish I have place were I can stabilize it with resin .

That black line is place were I forgot to insert before gluing some black horn

 

[Hengelo_77]

Time to try something different
A small sheepfoot with mammoth ivory

A small strip of bronce and G10 in the same thickness

A bronce lanyard attachement. I like it to be honest

 

[Natlek]

N Natlek

Not sure if this is what you're asking, but just get a decent length of wood, like a 2x2" (65x65 mm) and cut out a channel in the center of it starting from the bottom up to about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way to the top of the wood, so that you can slide the piece of wood over the blade with the two bottom "feet" on either side of the channel resting on the face of the guard, then just lightly hammer the top of the wood to knock the guard back off.
~Paul
My Youtube Channel
... (Just some older videos of some knives I've made in the past)

I do as you say ...but I cut that wood as chisel .Fixed blade in my knife vise and insert wood between vise and bolster and use hammer . Biggest problem was that stainless bolster , it was not seating in right angle towards blade / I cut with Dremel that 1.5mm opening for tang in slight angle/ when pressed in place so when I try to push it out it jammed more ..... slow but it works . Thanks again

 

[Natlek]

Time to try something different
A small sheepfoot with mammoth ivory

A small strip of bronce and G10 in the same thickness

A bronce lanyard attachement. I like it to be honest

I really like it Maybe if lanyard attachement was little shorter it will look even better ?

 

[John Cahoon]

Finally finished this one, after real life conspired to steal my shop time... I really liked working with corian and always love me some bubinga, that's 416 ss up front, I liked the natural mill finish. The photos aren't the best, shot too late in the afternoon, I'll need a do over later.

 

[Kevin McGovern]

I swedged my bird and trout. That sounds kind of dirty...

 

[J.H.]

just finished another knife, not sure how i feel about it. Blade too wide or short? handle too short and thick aswell? i would gladly take any criticism.

 

[Laredian]

Here are some more small EDC knives, the ones with the rock handle pattern obsidian shards I've posted before but they also have sheaths now. The other two are the same design and profile as the rock pattern obsidian shards, but have a bigger clip grind and scale handles with bronze pins. One is with black linen micarta and red liners and the other is ash-leaf maple burl with red liners:

This obsidian shard has a leather sheath that has been decorated with a ginko-leaf pattern:

This one has a leather sheath with a basketweave pattern:

Black linen micarta with red liners and bronze pins. The blade has been etched and stonewashed. The sheath again has a basketweave pattern:

Ash-leaf burl handle with red liners and bronze pins. Blade is again etched then stonewashed. The sheath has a ginko leaf pattern:

A picture of one inside the sheath. Since they all have the same profile, they'd all look similar to this:

Size inside the hand (medium hands):

 

[AVigil]

Have a Trapper in the works in AEB-L 62c, brass liners, stainless bolsters, red jigged bone

 

[Rose and Thistle Custom]

AVigil, I hope to one day own one of your slip joints. beautiful work.