What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Just ordered my "salts" for my high temp salt pot :). I'm all kinds of excited at the notion of getting this all to work. I need to get some more insulating wool and finish making the forge body and get the stainless tube welded to the base. Having so much more control when heat treating along with the other benefits of the blades being in an oxygen free environment is going to be awesome.


Jeremy
 
We are working towards getting our paring model into production. This is the latest revision of the paring knife prototype with a few more tweaks added to the handle. This is very close to what the final design will look like. Production handles will be G10 like the rest of our line. We just use wood for quick prototyping.

We also did some interesting stress tests today with four knives. One of them was from our first batch of prototypes and the rest were some of the most popular parer's on amazon. The third and fourth photos show the aftermath.

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HOLY!! Exactly what type of stress do you foresee your paring knives having to withstand? :D

The knife in the top photo has nice lines. It looks, however, as if there is a sizable gap between both scales and the tang... right at the front.

-Peter
 
I've been busy with folders and tantos, here's a brief shop tour and upate.

[video=youtube_share;aA6bYX2Wf8E]http://youtu.be/aA6bYX2Wf8E[/video]
 
Hey peter,

It was more of a test to see how our knife held up against abuse compared to popular factory made knives. We certainly don't expect people to use them as pry-bars or anvils! Not to mention those test are fun ;)

Thanks! Good eyes, the scales don't line up as well as they should because the blades were profiled on the CNC then roughly hand ground and the scales were milled fully on the CNC. We didn't grind the edges to make the tang and scales line up perfectly. We CNC mill the bevels etc. on the knives we sell (because it is a bit unique from how most knives are created and we aren't the most talented free hand grinders). Its just easier and faster to prototype by hand (instead of creating code and fixtures for prototyping).

-mike

HOLY!! Exactly what type of stress do you foresee your paring knives having to withstand? :D

The knife in the top photo has nice lines. It looks, however, as if there is a sizable gap between both scales and the tang... right at the front.

-Peter
 
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My dad was over yesterday and snapped a few pics of me making sparks.



 
I made two more blades. A small leather work knife for myself. The shape might be odd but I think it will be good for the intended use.
And a larger one that will be a gift. app. 6,5" blade.
Is that still a user, what would you call it?
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And that makes five that will be on there way to be hardened this weekend :D
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Been doing some corian scales for some fellow makers... Yet another thing that seems to be getting in the way of my actual knife making... They just had to have them ASAP.

This last set is so cool looking i may just have to use a set myself sometime soon. I haven't been taking pics of the others, but similar stuff. These are black and white corian. Milled black to 1/8th+ and a 20° angle and fit thd white into them. Then flush ground quickly on the disk.

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Everyone else's projects are making me jealous... And feel like a slacker. Good looking work from the lot of you.

-Eric
 
Yeah I'm curious about BenR.T's respirator myself. I'm thinking it's a PAPR type with a filter/pump hanging off his belt. Maybe Ben will chime in with some details and more pics

I'm learning to weld and I saw a similar one hanging on the wall of my instructor's shop.
 
This is the respirator setup I have, it uses standard filters, but puts them behind your back. I got mine at a local safety supply store for much cheaper.
http://mittrobe.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=89_91&products_id=1218

I had several people curious about my dust collector too.
The dust collector is a standard blower/drum type dust catcher, I do not use it to catch sparks, only handle material dust. Although I do leave it running while I grind steel, I just have it aimed so it doesn't suck up sparks.

It is basically like this, only an older craftsman model.
http://www.grainger.com/product/3AA...3AA17&ef_id=UFtJtwAAU8DbD5Hx:20140306204954:s
 
I actually had a little 'incident' with my prototype dust collector last night. The intake pipe got filled at the base with a plug of steel swarf, and then the whole ball lit on fire... Bear in mind this was actually below the water level in the collector drum! Though the vacuum was probably pulling the water way from the ball of swarf.

The fire was hot enough to light the wet steel swarf and melt a hole through the bottom of the bucket... I smelled it before it started leaking and managed to get the bucket moved. I pulled out the ball of swarf after it cooled, and it had clearly gotten molten in the middle!

Bear in mind that this was just swarf created by one grinding session! I had cleaned out the system right before starting for the evening.

As much as I enjoyed being dust free, I've gone back to the old 'bucket of water below the grinder' now. Wish I could work out a dust collector system that wasn't a fire hazard (and that doesn't require venting outside as I have no outside walls attached to my industrial unit).
 
Sounds a little scary aaron! Glad it wasn't more serious.

I actually had a little 'incident' with my prototype dust collector last night. The intake pipe got filled at the base with a plug of steel swarf, and then the whole ball lit on fire... Bear in mind this was actually below the water level in the collector drum! Though the vacuum was probably pulling the water way from the ball of swarf.

The fire was hot enough to light the wet steel swarf and melt a hole through the bottom of the bucket... I smelled it before it started leaking and managed to get the bucket moved. I pulled out the ball of swarf after it cooled, and it had clearly gotten molten in the middle!

Bear in mind that this was just swarf created by one grinding session! I had cleaned out the system right before starting for the evening.

As much as I enjoyed being dust free, I've gone back to the old 'bucket of water below the grinder' now. Wish I could work out a dust collector system that wasn't a fire hazard (and that doesn't require venting outside as I have no outside walls attached to my industrial unit).
 
Here's my svord mod' walkthrough - copied from my original source but something I'm sure you guys might like to browse!

Now, as an experienced tinkerer ( not maker!!) I still found this pretty tricky to do right. My last two attempts were a mixture of bad wood, rushing it and not planning ahead! :p

Now for pictures.

Out of the box next to one of my other Svords..



I won't be going over each step as I'm lazy, but the pictures will show you most of the steps that needed to be done.

For this mod I wanted to not only dock the blade to make it shorter but to compeltely mini-fy the blade, so it was simular in size to the mini model they already make.. :rolleyes: BUT! with a thicker blade and without that strange grind.


The blade needed alot of regrinding to make each side of the blade even. I did this job and the entire shrinking job on an upturned belt sander that was clamped to a piece of wood.. on the floor. :)

Sadly I did this bit ina burry and didn't have a camera at hand, but it was simple. I penned the shape and size I wanted, made a few cuts with a dremel tool and cleaned it up on the sander.

This is what it looked like once finished.




Next I made an important part of the whole process, something that involves forethought and not rushing into a fresh set of wooden slabs..like last time. A template! essential to a less hassel filled job. Thankfully I had some 2mm black plasticy stuff and spent a little while drawing my would be handle shape and drill holes into it.

Once the drawing was done, the holes were drilled and the action was tried and tested. It worked and looked nice so I cut it out and filed it to shape. The I pinned the blade and componants together with the template and traced it onto the wood. The wood is Yew.







I then cut most of the excess wood off with a junior hacksaw (cost £2! bargain lol)



I then bolted it together and began trimming away untill I hit the trace line, all done on the £25 Lidl sander!



Then it was time for the lower end spacer, something that replaces the additional screw thing that makes the original handle way to big, imo. This way you make the most out of the handle and add a nice bit of strength and bling to it all. I used 1.5mm-2mm brass sheet and cut it out with a dremel type tool (again, £20 from Lidl).



Once shaped and drilled for a pin it was ready to be glued into place and left over night for a clamping.



When dry, I hand filed the excess brass off when watching tv and then penned on the blade with marker the extra steel I wanted to remove. I decided to only remove the choil section and not the tang as when held right the tang doesn't poke ones palm.



I cut this section out with a dremel tool and cleaned up with some sand paper. It took about 2 minutes so I didn't get round to taking a picture.

Now all that was done It was a simple case of sand smooth, check by eye, rub in some raw linseed oil to treat the rather handsome wood.

And here is how it now looks..





And next to pinky for a scale reference.



Anyway, I hope you liked the progress pictures and finished knife. It took me a few hours and was quite hard, but very rewarding and fun. The knife itself is exceptionally comfy and secure in the hand due to the choil and chubby handle and will be a nice little pocket knife to have a play with in the future.

Thanks for reading,

Sam.
 
Here is another wip knife thread that I had posted elsewhere but will repost for you guys. The pictures are at the end because my phototbucket killed my links and I had to lazily add them at the end instead of in order.. Anywayl


Well amongst my other latest makings I decided to make use of an old machete I had laying around. It had previously been cut/reshaped to look like a badger slaying sword of the ages.. but wasn't getting that much use :rolleyes: (badgers here are too tough to tell the truth..).

So with my re-do it mind at work I squinted a little, took a pen to it.. and.. came up with a design I liked the look of! I quite fancy the western trade knife and tools look so went with that.

I took pictures of it all over time, so sorry if I missed a few out I didn't have my camera at the ready for a few bits.

Here is the blade after I broke off the handle and cut out my new design. I made sure to keep it all cool in all of the cutting, tooling process too. ;)



As you can see it was previous a cleaver sword thingy.. but the steel is good, good enough to make me recycle it into something 'useable'! Also, those two pieces of seasoned plumb were to be the handles! And I used some brass sheet from the gift it on thread for liners :)

I didn't get round to pictures of the handling process but I simple drilled the holes and bolted them together when sandfing to get them even at the top and the right fit.

I then glued all the brass and wood together and to the knife tang with nut and bolts (the nut and bolts also are my pins!) and left it to dry before the final shaping which I done with a rasp and a flap disc on me angle grinder. :)

Here it is just after most of the handle shapeing..and some low grit blade polishing.



and here it is with a light coat of oil before I gave it a dark patina so it has an aged look, perfect for the trade style I was aiming at. I do a mix od vinegar and mustard, mixed lumpy for my patinas, as it gives a blotched and almost forged look to the blade.


and some shots of the patina effect I was going for, with about 30 minutes apart.



After a little wipe down and check if it was dark enough..



Nice, but I wanted it darker and older looking, so I gave it a splash of vinegar and cooked some chilli for the family :p


And when I finally got back to it, it had turned really grey and mucky looking! just how I like it.



Now the blade was looking right for me, I wanted to darken that handle as the grain in the plumb is a bit mild for my liking. I don't have any fancy wood dyes or oils so I gave it the candle treatment! just a light heating all over the wood to collect carbon and work the previous oil coat into the wood.


All it needed then was a light sand to remove a bit of black and a good hand rub with some raw linseed oil - and some brass rivets fitted in the lanyard hole (don't have any brass tube! hehe) and a bit of leather cord to top it off!


All done.. ish. Need to make a sheath still but I'll find some bits to stick together for that later on this week! :D

Hope you like it, took me a few hours and was lots of fun getting filthy and making loads of noise!

Thanks for taking your time to check it out too :)


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Well, I guess I'll check in as still alive. I had to go out of town for a week unexpectedly. Very behind on work now after a couple delayed heat treat shipments.

I saw the dust collector talk above, this is what I use. Very cheesy, but works well. I just hang the hose by a hook and move it between my 2x72 and 6x48+9 as needed. Keeps the floor and air mostly spotless when I don't forget to turn it on.

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I have a few late customer orders that I have to work on before anything else, but I snuck in this one to partially finished last night because I was excited to see how the full swedge looked.

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Well, I guess I'll check in as still alive. I had to go out of town for a week unexpectedly. Very behind on work now after a couple delayed heat treat shipments.

I saw the dust collector talk above, this is what I use. Very cheesy, but works well. I just hang the hose by a hook and move it between my 2x72 and 6x48+9 as needed. Keeps the floor and air mostly spotless when I don't forget to turn it on.

erQ7wpa.jpg


I have a few late customer orders that I have to work on before anything else, but I snuck in this one to partially finished last night because I was excited to see how the full swedge looked.

QroSXDS.jpg

The swedge looks great Ian!

Do you collect hot sparks straight from your grinder with the dust collector as shown? I'm amazed you haven't had issues if so... Are you doing anything special in terms of cleaning/maintaining the collector?

I'm very curious as I'd love to work out a system that helped keep my shop clean!
 
For right now I move the hose to the side if doing anything that throws sparks, and the collector still keeps the dust pretty well under control. Otherwise I hang it just under and it does somewhat well.

This is really just a stop-gap measure, I eventually plan to have a sheet metal spark trap mounted to the lower arm that the hose connects to the back of. It will work better and collect pretty much everything. The bottom will be removable for cleaning.
 
For right now I move the hose to the side if doing anything that throws sparks, and the collector still keeps the dust pretty well under control. Otherwise I hang it just under and it does somewhat well.

This is really just a stop-gap measure, I eventually plan to have a sheet metal spark trap mounted to the lower arm that the hose connects to the back of. It will work better and collect pretty much everything. The bottom will be removable for cleaning.

Gotcha. If you have any ideas about safe methods of collecting sparks and such directly I'd be interested in hearing them... I had thought my previous system was safe (and it might have been if my bucket was metal) but I'm kinda leery of hooking up a vacuum at all now... I would love to mitigate the mess that the grinder makes though.
 
Gotcha. If you have any ideas about safe methods of collecting sparks and such directly I'd be interested in hearing them... I had thought my previous system was safe (and it might have been if my bucket was metal) but I'm kinda leery of hooking up a vacuum at all now... I would love to mitigate the mess that the grinder makes though.

I need to draw mine up soon to order materials, I'll post a dwg here for anyone that is interested. Should be pretty simple.

It will basically be a deep box with a hose port on the back towards the top, and a deflector on the port entrance.
 
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