What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

A 14 hr day building a habaki and slotting all the metal parts to the tang.
I have blisters on my fingers!!:eek:













 
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And, just to finish the day in style.....



-Yes it is.
-No I can't.
-Its a premium piece of figured Rosewood.
-Damn it!

-Peter
 
You might try a saturated solution of Alum (available at grocery stores in the baking section). Given enough time, the alum will dissolve the steel and allow the steel to be removed from the wood handle. I use alum to dissolve drill bits that have broken off in non-ferrous metals. It is a relatively slow process, but it works.

However, I have no idea of the effect of alum on wood.
 
Smithy said:
You might try a saturated solution of Alum (available at grocery stores in the baking section). Given enough time, the alum will dissolve the steel and allow the steel to be removed from the wood handle. I use alum to dissolve drill bits that have broken off in non-ferrous metals. It is a relatively slow process, but it works.

However, I have no idea of the effect of alum on wood.
Click to expand...

Ehhhhhhh.... can't be bothered, and I'd likely destroy the wood in the process. Its history.
Chalk it up to "lessons learned". I knew I was torquing the bit too much. I rushed.

-Peter
 
Peter... Do you have a good soldering iron? Depending on how deep that puppy is(and how patient you are), you can heat it up enough to pull it out. Don't ask me how I discovered that.:o
 
Rick, that's an interesting idea, but this bit is sunk in nearly 2 inches. I don't think its coming out. Worse is, that was my only 1/8" brad point. An hour's worth of driving just to get a new drill bit isn't in the books today so I wait until Monday.

On the up-side..... its feels almost Summerish outside today! Winter BE GONE.

-Peter
 
Ahhh the learning curve continues! Soooo don't leave a solo cup with acra-glass in it on the bench over night... sigh!



Yes, that is an epoxy hockey puck permanently attached to my bench
 
Smithy said:
You might try a saturated solution of Alum (available at grocery stores in the baking section). Given enough time, the alum will dissolve the steel and allow the steel to be removed from the wood handle. I use alum to dissolve drill bits that have broken off in non-ferrous metals. It is a relatively slow process, but it works.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip Teddy, good to know.
 
Can you attach another piece of steel rod to the drill bit using solderer or JB Weld and then back the bit out?
 
I was thinking that you could cut around it with an annular cutter, but I couldn't find one the size I thought you'd need - 3/8ths.

But I found this @ knifekits:

http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?cPath=49_191&products_id=478.

That one is 3/8" and short but it might cut enough rosewood away for you to get a grip on the drill stub with a pair of pliers. Obviously you need to mess with the arbor a bit to get it out of the way. I think we're talking the wood in a vice and the cutter in a drill press or milling machine to be safe here.
 
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I'm putting broken drill bits and ruined high-$$ wood in my past.
Today is a new day.
Grinding day! :thumbup::thumbup:

I have a small batch destined for a local outdoor store:


Here's my rig:




First passes down to center line, then edge-marked in red.


One down....


 
If you guys didn't see the thread Eric Kidwell made, here are some pictures of the TW Hammer-In.

5b431341f3b833f7e9ce8a9048a8c2d3_zps0f144f9d.jpg



My album with descriptions here:
http://imgur.com/a/V58yv[/QUOTE]
 
There's Shayne Carter, Mike Quesenberry, Eric Kidwell, Travis Wuertz, Tim Hancock, Hans Weinmueller, Mike Mooney. I apologize to those who I missed! I am not familiar with everybody's first and last names.
 
Howdy folks, so this is my first knife since I started reading this forum... I've made a couple others, but they were more "knife shaped objects" than anything else... please let me know what you think!
It's 1080+ that I got from AKS, along with natural canvas micarta and very thin red G10 liners (They don't have much contrast... too small I suspect). HT done by yours truly in my profane forge, tempered 2 times @400 in a toaster oven on a pan of vermiculite, once for 2 hours once for one (cause i forgot how long I was supposed to do it for the first time). Handle finished to 600 grit oiled with mineral oil and waxed with Johnson's paste wax. The blade is finished to 600 grit as well. It was nearly perfectly clean, but then I screwed up the finish after I put the scales on and realized I forgot to finish the spine... sigh... oh well it's all experience eh? Hope to not make that mistake too many times!









Thanks for looking!
 
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