What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Scaniaman said:
This is a very appealing handle style, I like it much more than traditional Wa.
You have some wicked takes on this craft, keep em comin :thumbsup:
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you know this handle style is totally my take on a Mareko Maumasi handle, I wish I could say I had some innovation here but it is really all his style
 
Cushing H. said:
Pretty. I like the funky front of the scales ... and I would not have the courage to try what you did with the finger slot, or the filework. Got a fourth knife? Wow.

(only one question: no sharpening choil? Personal preference of mine... otherwise things get funky after a few sharpenings...)
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Thanks! I will add the sharpening choil with a small diamond burr on a dremel, I was just lazy :) Finger slot I started with a round file and finished with a half round file, not perfect, but it feels nice. I actually didn't clean up the jimping (done pre ht, started with a hand saw and then widened with a dremel with cheap diamond burr, was actually quite easy once I managed to hold the dremel straight).

Mistakes:

- my hand slipped when I was flattening the flats after I did the bevels (can be seen on one plunge/ricasso area) - lesson, do pre-beveling, dont touch afterward
- shortened the front of the scale too much - lesson, measure twice, cut once
- needed to readjust front of the scale, mared up the ricasso area - lesson, cover ricasso area better, try lacquer technique
- put too much daenish oil and left it there to cure, gummed up the handle - lesson, wipe up the excess on the hardwoods, it won't soak up
- hidden loop hole off center, drill slipped - lesson, big center punch, start with a smaller drill to center
 
Old oak said:
T
one still has a few small scratches to sand out but not bad.

O1 tool steel blade/crushed shell resin handle.

Critique away...
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Hey there, you asked for critique, but you've already picked up on what I see as the biggest difference between the pros and the fiddlers (like me).

Fit and finish. Your fit up seems pretty good, but your finish on both the guard and the blade are pretty unrefined.

Scratches aren't the problem, scratches that are not uniform are. A 60 grit finish can look good, if it's uniform and executed very well.

Don't rush your finish job. Make sure that all the sanding marks are gone from the previous grit, before moving on to the next. On your last grit, make straight pulls, with a fresh section on your sand paper for each stroke.

I dig that handle though, very unique and very cool!
 
Thanks. Yeah scratches always seem to be my enemy unless I just do an antique blade with the Clorox and gun blue. I’m planning on starting the sanding over on that one though and see if I can rework it a little better.
The shell for the handle is easy to come by where I am.
 
FredyCro said:
- shortened the front of the scale too much - lesson, measure twice, cut once
- needed to readjust front of the scale, mared up the
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Hey Freddy - re the issues on the front or the scale and repercussions: do you work and finalize the front of the scales NOT ATTACHED to to the tang, and PRIOR to permanent glueing to tang? If not, contact me... I have been adopting a technique (from others);that allows this (if something is wrong, you can just start the scales over....
 
Cushing H. said:
Hey Freddy - re the issues on the front or the scale and repercussions: do you work and finalize the front of the scales NOT ATTACHED to to the tang, and PRIOR to permanent glueing to tang? If not, contact me... I have been adopting a technique (from others);that allows this (if something is wrong, you can just start the scales over....
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Yeah, I do, but I didn't plan well for that second that facet, so had to add it later..
 
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Just finished up these two high school graduation gifts. These are in CPM-D2 with satin finish, ironwood scales with stainless corbys and tube. The father that I made these for has a son and step-son both graduating from different schools he wanted the knives the same but different lanyard beads to match school colors one is gold and black other is silver and black.
 
Have started work on this one
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Cushing H. said:
Nice work William :)
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Thanks Cush!

Willie71 said:
What layer count is that?
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The billet started at 15 layers: 7 pieces of 0.125" 1080 and 16 pieces of 0.072" 15N20. (So should I actually call this 23 layers?) I forged this one pretty thin for me, although not intentionally, I'm still trying to get used to this forging press. After soaking in vinegar to remove the scale, the spine was ~ 0.100" tapering to ~0.060" at the tip. I'm surprised I was able to grind enough but not too much to complete the knife. I did have a significant amount of bacon at the edge after quenching, however that took 5 tempering cycles and a bit of grinding to correct. The heel height ended up ~ 1/4" shorter than planned or as forged.

It's (not necessarily intentionally) the thinnest blades I've made with a significant amount of flex at the tip and he's promised to tell me and let me make him another if it doesn't hold up. His initial reaction when I talked with him yesterday was positive, however, saying he ran out of vegetables 2 days ago using it, he was having so much fun. He also said he's never had a blade this thin (I'm not sure that's saying much, however) and was enjoying how easily it was going through his veggies. He also said he's going to get more veggies, use it regularly and hard over the next week and get back to me on how it's holding up.

Daniel Carraher said:
Have started work on this one
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That's going to be a beaut. What's the billet makeup?
 
weo said:
Thanks Cush!


The billet started at 15 layers: 7 pieces of 0.125" 1080 and 16 pieces of 0.072" 15N20. (So should I actually call this 23 layers?) I forged this one pretty thin for me, although not intentionally, I'm still trying to get used to this forging press. After soaking in vinegar to remove the scale, the spine was ~ 0.100" tapering to ~0.060" at the tip. I'm surprised I was able to grind enough but not too much to complete the knife. I did have a significant amount of bacon at the edge after quenching, however that took 5 tempering cycles and a bit of grinding to correct. The heel height ended up ~ 1/4" shorter than planned or as forged.

It's (not necessarily intentionally) the thinnest blades I've made with a significant amount of flex at the tip and he's promised to tell me and let me make him another if it doesn't hold up. His initial reaction when I talked with him yesterday was positive, however, saying he ran out of vegetables 2 days ago using it, he was having so much fun. He also said he's never had a blade this thin (I'm not sure that's saying much, however) and was enjoying how easily it was going through his veggies. He also said he's going to get more veggies, use it regularly and hard over the next week and get back to me on how it's holding up.


That's going to be a beaut. What's the billet makeup?
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I resumed work on a 0.090” gyuto, and it feels like a tank after the recent 0.060” knives I have made. I much prefer super thin knives now.
 
Willie71 said:
I resumed work on a 0.090” gyuto, and it feels like a tank after the recent 0.060” knives I have made. I much prefer super thin knives now.
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I just got some more feedback. He let a friend who was a professional chef use it and the chef said the balance is too far back from the tip. The only way I can think to accomplish this would be make the blade thicker or keep a thin blade and make it longer. (Not sure if there's a question in there.)
 
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