What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

That
A "tiny" one :D
300mm/12" edge, 75mm/3" width, 415mm/16.3" OAL, 1mm/0.04" thickness, 260 grams (9.2oz) total weight. Urunday hardwood and three corby bolts. Sandvik 1095 steel @ 60RC

Pablo

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That's insane (in a good way). What is it used for?
 
A "tiny" one :D
300mm/12" edge, 75mm/3" width, 415mm/16.3" OAL, 1mm/0.04" thickness, 260 grams (9.2oz) total weight. Urunday hardwood and three corby bolts. Sandvik 1095 steel @ 60RC

Pablo

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I bet you would get a lot of funny looks if you used that to cut the cake at a birthday party. :D
 
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This is a 225 mm gyuto in 0.084" (2.1 mm) AEB-L I made for the KITH. It has a faceted convex grind with three faces.

The handle is made from Madrone and African Blackwood using the hidden dowel method. It's secured with beeswax so it can be removed and reseated easily by adding just enough heat to melt the wax. The finish is Tru-Oil.

I sharpened it with a different edge that I'm experimenting with. For my own knives I've always brought them up to at least 3000 grit before stropping, and if I'm feeling motivated I'll polish the edge at 8000 grit before stropping. I like the knife to feel like a razor and just drop through food with minimal effort. The downside is that when the blade begins to loose the keen edge it just stops cutting because there are no micro-serrations to fall back on, especially in food like tomatoes or peppers. Feedback from some people I have using my knives was that they didn't like this. So Instead I've been experimenting with sharpening kitchen knives on a 400 grit stone with very light pressure to give a fine edge but with some tooth, then spend a fair bit of time on a leather strop charged with green chromium oxide compound. I've found this to be a pretty good edge for everyday use. The strop polishes the edge so it feels extremely sharp but the micro-serrations keep it cutting over time.



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Here's another custom project for a very fine fellow who needs a daily user wharncliffe style blade. We worked pretty closely together on this and chose handle material, textured handle shape and the construction tools theme for the sheath. This one's 80CRV2 steel with a pretty much bulletproof urethane resin handle. And a short you tube link for the sharpening test. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaPMRpMszJY20-32 1.jpg
 
Here's another custom project for a very fine fellow who needs a daily user wharncliffe style blade. We worked pretty closely together on this and chose handle material, textured handle shape and the construction tools theme for the sheath. This one's 80CRV2 steel with a pretty much bulletproof urethane resin handle. And a short you tube link for the sharpening test. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaPMRpMszJYView attachment 1411034
Nice job!!! I bet he’ll be thrilled with it.
 
Couple recent ones, all are Aeb-l and between 7 and 7-3/16" OAL

Mexican blanket Gcarta + black paper Micarta bolsters
Stainless pin and tube
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Same thing but different colors
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Stabilized and dyed Box Elder burl + black paper Micarta bolsters
Stainless pin and tube
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And one in stabilized maple burl + G10 red liners
Stainless pins and tube
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Thanks for looking :)
 
Just finished up a set of four drop point hunters for a customer, he really liked the Randall model #27 handle pattern I made for another customer. He wanted one for him self and one for each of his three sons for a Christmas present this year. I still have to make the sheaths yet.

Blade is 4" long 5/32" thick AEB-L, HRc-62 with sub-zero treatment.

Handle is stag round with a mixture of micarta, G-10, brass and nickel silver spacers, guard is brass and soldered in place.

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Couple recent ones, all are Aeb-l and between 7 and 7-3/16" OAL

Mexican blanket Gcarta + black paper Micarta bolsters
Stainless pin and tube
pqyO9W4.jpg

gcEcFT8.jpg


Same thing but different colors
WNp13HP.jpg


Stabilized and dyed Box Elder burl + black paper Micarta bolsters
Stainless pin and tube
tXO4g7f.jpg

yi0ObQu.jpg


And one in stabilized maple burl + G10 red liners
Stainless pins and tube
en2j3cK.jpg


Thanks for looking :)

I love those blanket handles! Did you make them?
 
D Dominick Maone , thanks but the material is made by GL Hansen & sons(https://gcarta.bigcartel.com/).They have all sorts of unique designs.

If you decide to get some, be aware though that the material will most likely need to be sanded twice + coated with CA to get rid of the fuzzies and small voids in between the fibers

*edited to add link
 
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My new personal knife. I don't have attachments to the knives I make for personal use, if a customer likes it, its gone. This happened last week with my previous one, so, a new one replaced it just in time for this weekend BBQ :D

Sanmai suminagashi, vg10 core, 120mm/4.7" blade, 225mm/8.9" OAL 3mm/0.12" thickness, stainless bolsters, orange dyed stabilized maple burl, mosaic pin. Sheath by Pancho Elizalde

Pablo

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I’ve been using a cheap harbor freight hammer to do my forgings. I’ve grown extremely tired of chipping the face out and having to redress it and then getting all the pock marks in my forgings. So I’ve decided to make my own hammer. I forged this out of a block of 4140 tool steel. The handle is hickory that I burned and then finished with boiled linseed oil.

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Good looking hammer! Well done! I've got a big chunk of 4140 sitting around waiting for me to do the same thing! Lol!
 
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