What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Freddy, The large hole right at the hande/ricasso junction makes for a very weak spot. A good hard whack with the cleaver may separate blade and handle quickly.

 

[TheEdge01]

-removed-

 

[Daniel Carraher]

Got a little more work done on this one. Waiting on my new heat treat oven so this is as far as I can take this one until it shows up

 

[Natlek]

This one is last one for this year ...............somehow I lost interest in making knives on grinder . I want to be blacksmith now

So this days i make hammer handles

 

[Cliff Carter Knives]

Pre HT batch. All are 80CrV2 except for second from right. That little guy is O1

 

[Hengelo_77]

So I semi completed this project today. It’s a castration knife for my brother in law made out of 1084 and Micarta handles. I will spend the better part of this afternoon hand sanding with 600 grit paper to smooth the finish out. The Micarta is sanded to 600 grit as well. It’s my first time to work with Micarta and I’m not sure what to do with it. Leave it, buff it, sand it to a higher grit? Do you finish Micarta with anything like oil like you would do with wood? I could use some advice on how to finish this project up.

You may want to re-sand those scales to 220 for a nice grippy finish.
Should be good for a castrating knife

 

[Hengelo_77]

View attachment 1407931
Pre HT batch. All are 80CrV2 except for second from right. That little guy is O1

3rd from the left has very litte steel where the handle starts

 

[Cliff Carter Knives]

3rd from the left has very litte steel where the handle starts

This one is going to be a scale-less neck knife. Not going to see super hard use (chopping, batoning, prying, etc).

my bigger concern is warpage during the HT process.

 

[Scaniaman]

Way too little going on here over the summer. Finally a few blades ready for the toaster tomorrow. 14C28N chefs and AEB-L EDC.

 

[FredyCro]

Freddy, The large hole right at the hande/ricasso junction makes for a very weak spot. A good hard whack with the cleaver may separate blade and handle quickly.

I did the hole before shaping the handle and took more material off then I wanted. It is a pin hole, so there will be a 12mm pin with epoxy in it, does it change anything? Or maybe shut the hole off with a piece of 1075 and weld? I will test the blade before doing a handle.

 

[FredyCro]

It is a 3.5mm 75cr1 blade (hardened through out to 58hrc). I have about 4mm on top of the hole and 3mm below full thickness.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I would just leave it as-is and learn from this. Look at the holes Scaniaman has on the knives he just posted.

As to the amount of metal you left, if you made a cleaver with the tang 7mm/.27" wide at the ricasso, would you expect the handle to stay on long?

 

[FredyCro]

I would just leave it as-is and learn from this. Look at the holes Scaniaman has on the knives he just posted.

As to the amount of metal you left, if you made a cleaver with the tang 7mm/.27" wide at the ricasso, would you expect the handle to stay on long?

So bin it? Would flex test tell me anything about the strength? Sorry about the questions, I am just sorry to bin it after all the work..

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I would put on a strong handle (Micarta) and extend it well past the hole. Then, finish it up with the 12mm pin and epoxy and use it at home. If you bend it without a handle it will snap pretty easily.

 

[FredyCro]

Thank you very much for your kind advice!

 

[TheEdge01]

So I semi completed this project today. It’s a castration knife for my brother in law made out of 1084 and Micarta handles. I will spend the better part of this afternoon hand sanding with 600 grit paper to smooth the finish out. The Micarta is sanded to 600 grit as well. It’s my first time to work with Micarta and I’m not sure what to do with it. Leave it, buff it, sand it to a higher grit? Do you finish Micarta with anything like oil like you would do with wood? I could use some advice on how to finish this project up.

Get you a surface conditioning belt, that would help even your scratch pattern up on your blade.

 

[Natlek]

It is a 3.5mm 75cr1 blade (hardened through out to 58hrc). I have about 4mm on top of the hole and 3mm below full thickness.

Probably i have made more then twenty machete from that steel in same thickness .............it is unbreakable.But that hole ..................... Maybe frame handle will help , judging by the picture/it is not wide / there is place to do that ? If it s mine i will use it as it is ....if it breaks , it breaks make another one

 

[FredyCro]

Probably i have made more then twenty machete from that steel in same thickness .............it is unbreakable.But that hole ..................... Maybe frame handle will help , judging by the picture/it is not wide / there is place to do that ? If it s mine i will use it as it is ....if it breaks , it breaks make another one

Handle is wider then it looks, I think around 19-20 mm, the blade is almost 9 cm wide, 10 at the widest point. I think I will just extend the handle and do it with micarta instead with wood. I just need to find a piece of micarta that is long enough..

 

[Natlek]

Handle is wider then it looks, I think around 19-20 mm, the blade is almost 9 cm wide, 10 at the widest point. I think I will just extend the handle and do it with micarta instead with wood. I just need to find a piece of micarta that is long enough..

20mm is not enough especially for this kind of knife .If you put thick scale it will be almost round in shape .You need to hold straight that wide blade .......Even for small knife at ricasso handle should be at least 1 inch or 25mm better around 27-28mm . And why you drill that size hole You must have plenty of 12mm pins

 

[PEU]

A "tiny" one
300mm/12" edge, 75mm/3" width, 415mm/16.3" OAL, 1mm/0.04" thickness, 260 grams (9.2oz) total weight. Urunday hardwood and three corby bolts. Sandvik 1095 steel @ 60RC

Pablo