What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

some recent work

52100 and stainless gyuto with ancient bog oak

ZoUFepv.jpg


52100 sumingashi and ironwood

KZ8rfqX.jpg


aT4Ex3R.jpg


52100 suminagashi gyuto and holly wood

rIEgK9l.jpg


2Ooa7Ig.jpg


CpnIyOA.jpg
 
Here’s a castration knife I’m making for my brother-in-law today. It’s 1084 steel, hollow ground. The cutting blade is 2.25” and the overall length is 5.75”. I have to drill the holes for the handles and then heat treat it. Let me know what you think. This was my first attempt at a hollow ground knife and my third knife ever to make. I’m kind of flying by the seat of my pants.

2fcXox1.jpg


mBpCkG2.jpg


NITC2ha.jpg

URL][IMG]
 
Last edited:
PEU said:
Finished this one yesterday. Bertie Rietveld Dragonskin (tang bohler k720), Black & White Ebony, red paper micarta liners. 95mm/3.75" blade OAL 205mm/8.07" Mosaic pin. Sheat in progress by Pancho Elizalde.

Pablo

O2x2C7r.jpg

Click to expand...
I always love the simple clean look all of your knives have Pablo.
 
Blackdirt cowboy said:
Here’s a castration knife I’m making for my brother-in-law today. It’s 1084 steel, hollow ground. The cutting blade is 2.25” and the overall length is 5.75”. I have to drill the holes for the handles and then heat treat it. Let me know what you think. This was my first attempt at a hollow ground knife and my third knife ever to make. I’m kind of flying by the seat of my pants.

2fcXox1.jpg


mBpCkG2.jpg


URL][IMG]
Click to expand...
Jesus Murphy, your hand looks worse than mine, that takes some doing!

Re the knife: the plunge can always be tricky, but for a hollow grind you should be able to get a crisp transition along the top of the bevel.
I see a gouge or two. I would try and get the bevel to clean up smooth, right across.
All of that might be easier if the spine was straight, then you can grind edge up, and drag it across the work rest.
 
Yep. I put that gouge in there in the last pass. I had the bevels going all the way to the spine, and then when I ground the handle flat, I went too far forward and messed them up. I’m thinking about heat treating and then cleaning all that up. Thanks for the input.
 
So I got this big whack of damascus from @JTknives, made by @Salem Straub. It's destined to be a Scottish Dirk.

NnMVrjy.jpg


I decided to practice on something cheap before I screwed up the expensive stuff, so here's where I'm at. 1084, pretty much exactly the same size as the damascus billet.

ixmWpI4.jpg


I've never really tried forging something this big before. It's quite the challenge!

I'm having a really hard time getting the 2 1/2 ish inch x 1/4 inch material to squish down into itself. I mean it's working, it's just really quite hard work!

Of course the fact that when I started working on it this morning at 8am it was 80° probably isn't making things any easier for me. But hey that's S.W. Texas for ya! I worked till 11-ish when I threw in the towel.
It's just too hot to be outside standing near a forge, swinging a 3lb hammer!
 
So I semi completed this project today. It’s a castration knife for my brother in law made out of 1084 and Micarta handles. I will spend the better part of this afternoon hand sanding with 600 grit paper to smooth the finish out. The Micarta is sanded to 600 grit as well. It’s my first time to work with Micarta and I’m not sure what to do with it. Leave it, buff it, sand it to a higher grit? Do you finish Micarta with anything like oil like you would do with wood? I could use some advice on how to finish this project up.

TyjTYhw.jpg


HbPcqTP.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top