What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Mike - Twice I got talked out of buying the "standard grade" Ti and bought their "Knifemakers grade". How's the "standard" working out for you? Do you have a surface grinder?

Thanks

I'm curious who "they" is and what "they" say the difference is between standard and knifemaker grade Ti?

Thanks
 
Damn Butch, that sucks! Are you just gonna grind the old handle off and re-do it or start from scratch?
 
Cory, AKS recommends the better grade. They say the surface is much more free of imperfections than the standard grade. I don't think it would make a difference for a liner lock, but for any parts that will be a surface, they report it is much better. I have only bought once, so I can't say with any certainty.
 
Just finished up my third knife. Just over 9" OAL and a cutting edge of just over 4". Forged from 5160 (Aldo's) steel, full flat grind, black canvas Micarta handle scales with yellow liners and stainless steel pins. It is hard to tell from the pictures but the tang is tapered too. I need to work on making the taper more pronounced. There are a few things that I still find "off" with the proportions and shape but it feels good to get another one done and under the belt. Each one will get better than the previous. Let me know what you think, be honest, I can handle it :)

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Working on stuff. Here is a Tribal Bone Dagger freshly epoxied...
 

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People , you've got that wrong on the titanium. The difference between the standard grade and the knife maker grade is that the standard has lots of scratches whereas the knife maker usually has none at all. They are all warp free and I can't say when I last got a piece that had even a slight curve to it. I often use titanium for my back bars as well. Frank
 
Damn Butch, that sucks! Are you just gonna grind the old handle off and re-do it or start from scratch?

the blade is already sharpened to 16k grit im not dancing that around the grinder and i hat the thouhgt of knocking the handle off since thats a bunch of time + bog oak aint cheap. im getting ready to order a new bar of steel and instead of being an integral it will just have a large SS front thats shaped as if integral
 
People , you've got that wrong on the titanium. The difference between the standard grade and the knife maker grade is that the standard has lots of scratches whereas the knife maker usually has none at all. They are all warp free and I can't say when I last got a piece that had even a slight curve to it. I often use titanium for my back bars as well. Frank

Frank, thanks for the info. I did not see any scratches on the material when I received it.
 
Thanks Frank. By the time I'm done profiling they are as scratched up as a Disney DVD from the library so I may as well save the $$$.
 
Just finished up my third knife. Just over 9" OAL and a cutting edge of just over 4". Forged from 5160 (Aldo's) steel, full flat grind, black canvas Micarta handle scales with yellow liners and stainless steel pins. It is hard to tell from the pictures but the tang is tapered too. I need to work on making the taper more pronounced. There are a few things that I still find "off" with the proportions and shape but it feels good to get another one done and under the belt. Each one will get better than the previous. Let me know what you think, be honest, I can handle it :)



ciYlFEEl.jpg


KX6hvKyl.jpg


m9Vbj0kl.jpg


s7SPA2vl.jpg

Wow! Third knife? Very good! Handle shaping does not come easy, at least not for me. It's easy to just glue some slabs on there, and just round off the corners. Giving it that "oval" cross-section makes it a lot more comfortable, and nice.
 
Hashed out some production models. Just gotta buff the handles and sharpen. I think after this set i'll start doing some one-of-a-kinds.

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im getting ready to order a new bar of steel and instead of being an integral it will just have a large SS front thats shaped as if integral

I suppose that makes sense, time is money and all that... I'm sure the custom won't be a total loss, there seemed to be quite a few on here who're in lust with that particular blade anyway! ;-)
 
Wow! Third knife? Very good! Handle shaping does not come easy, at least not for me. It's easy to just glue some slabs on there, and just round off the corners. Giving it that "oval" cross-section makes it a lot more comfortable, and nice.

Thanks! handle shaping is tricky for me and i find it to be one of the trickiest part for me. Micarta is easy to work with and I like the looks of it so I'll plan on sticking with it until I feel comfortable enough to try it out on some good hardwood, I would feel bad messing up a nice piece of wood.
 
A small hunter for a charity auction, and a bowie ready to cut whatever gets in the way........both with my new mark and both of Aldo's 1084.:thumbup:









Darcy

Nice! What's the blade and overall length on this one? Looks good man!
 
Well I roughed this blade out of 1080 last night. And went thru my new to me upgraded bench top drill press on the left cleaning out all the old grease and touching up the spindle. It is a great older craftsman one cool thing is you can adjust the spring that returns the spindle up or reverse it for down pressure.
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just got an order for 8 matching neck knives. that will be a nice little fill in till more steel gets in the shop. and i have another maker sending me a 3v chopper for HT so it will make a full batch
 
Daddy Chef, 9 3/4" Momma Chef, 7 3/4" & baby Chef, 4 3/4" CPM-154 1/8" HTed and ready to bevel grind.image.jpg I haven't decided yet if they are going to be matching or all different handle woods or Kirinite? I am leaning towards all diff. These are called my, Asian Chef series.
 
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