What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Sheath work!

I've been making sheaths.

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Man Butch, that thing is AWESOME!!! :eek: :cool: :thumbup:


Your posts are a lot easier to understand when you didn't type them... :p :D
 
I don't have any straight on, yet. I am in the middle of gluing it up, but I will most a thread when it is done with full specs. Thanks
 
That's look'n awesome Javan! :cool: :)




Here's what I've been doing. :)

[video=youtube;o1zcdSowErA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=o1zcdSowErA[/video]
 
Looks like you need some kind of bench grinder with a scotch brite pad on it for cleaning your blades.
nice video looking forward to part 2.
was that last cycle a annealing cycle?
 
Daniel- I can certainly see why you would think that, but scrubbing them by hand in the deep sink is the best option. Any powered method flings that stuff everywhere.... and either the "vinegar + forge scale sludge" or the thin layer of salt are both NASTY things to get flung around. As both of them will cause all kinds of nasty corrosion on whatever they land on.

That's why my salt bath rig has so much brown on it, from molten salt dripping on it when I go from salt to quench really fast. :grumpy:


The last thermal cycle is a sub-critical anneal, and leaves the steel very soft and super easy to grind/cut/file. I know some folks pull the blade out, let it cool to black, and then quench it. I know a couple of my friends put them in the kiln at 1250F, set the oven to soak a couple hours, and then just leave them in overnight (so they'll cool down slowly with the oven). I've done it all 3 ways, and really couldn't see any difference. I'm not saying there isn't! Just that I couldn't see any. :foot:


52100 is a bit of a goofy steel in this industry, because it seems to get a lot of people riled up almost as much as politics and religion. :eek: ;)


And FWIW, I don't claim that there's no way to improve upon what I do with it... I just know that what I do is consistent, repeatable, and results in a blade that will do what it's supposed to do.
 
NickWheeler said:
That's why my salt bath rig has so much brown on it, from molten salt dripping on it when I go from salt to quench really fast.
Click to expand...

What kind of drag out losses do you have?
How much salt do you go through in a year?


After that 9-11 thing it became very very difficult to get nitrate salts and other useful stuff here.

If I were to do that, I'd want a lifetime supply
 
Do you scrub the scale off so it doesn't get lost in the salt bath?

Why use the salt bath for the normalizes?

Daniel
 
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Finished up this knife for my stepfather who just finished radiation treatment. He hasn't seen it yet but I think he'll be happy with it. The guard is the mokume gana that I posted a couple of pages back.

 
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Sam- Very little loss... I bought another 5 gallon bucket of NuSal in 2007, and there is about 4.5 gallons still in the bucket. ;)


Daniel- the salt will eat the scale off, but it damages the salt.

Why do I use the salt to normalize? Now I'm convinced you aren't actually watching the videos. LMAO (6min 46sec)
 
I have watched lots of videos, to see how people dress, skin, and butcher deer. Seems like everybody has their own way of doing it, so there is a wide variety of favorite hunting knives out there. I designed this one with lots of belly, just for the heck of it.

I made a wooden mock-up first. The mock up felt excellent in hand. It is A2 tool steel.

It's all hand filed, using a jig.

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today looks to be uncool
custom order sushi knife might be up for grabs now as the buyer didnt liek the joint at the wood and damascus junction looks liek i ll be building another really soon this time tho not integral (tho it will look mostly like it was) will contour SS front of handle to blend into blade
 
Mike - Twice I got talked out of buying the "standard grade" Ti and bought their "Knifemakers grade". How's the "standard" working out for you? Do you have a surface grinder?

Thanks
 
Mark, I do not have a surface grinder. As far as I can tell the Ti looks very flat. However, I have not profiled or drilled holes in it and that may cause some internal stresses to change the flatness. I will keep my fingers crossed and hope this is not the case.
 
This one is finally shaping up. The bevels are sanded to 400 gr. I am going to make it a scandi. I think it is ground at 10 degrees. Hm. Can't remember exactly what angle I ground it at, but it is 1/8" thick. Looks like a good angle for a versatile scandi? What do you all think?

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