What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Not sure what your getting at......I always make my sheaths to fit the knife not the other way around. A freshly sanded knife should not be pushed in and out of a sheath until the knife is completely done and ready to ship. I COMPLETELY finish a knife except for sharpening BEFORE I make the sheath. You don’t wanna be adding remnants from the build process to your sheath.
Kydex is notorious for scratching knife blades be it from contaminates from construction or simply from picking up grit from the environment during normal use, there is lots of information out there on this subject. One simple solution to prevent scratches on your knife blade is to quite simply line the sheaths with something that doesn't pick up contaminants that will scratch the blade like Kydex does. Pig skin or 1-2 oz tooling leather does a wonderful job in keeping my blade finishes scratch free.
 
Laminated blue steel warikomi Gyuto. After being Cold forged


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Made an error while loading the oven, broke the coil, I had a coil replacement ready but I can't replace the whole afternoon that took me the repair... Its working again.

Pablo

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what type of steel are you using for your knives?
 
Made an error while loading the oven, broke the coil, I had a coil replacement ready but I can't replace the whole afternoon that took me the repair... Its working again.

Pablo

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39YsGW4.jpg

V7ZGsib.jpg

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Now thats crazy, you've got about 60-70 knifes going in at once? What was the mistake? How do you quench those? Whata the size of the chamber?

Sorry for all the questions, this got me really interested.
 
Been trying to work through some of the backlog of blades I have had sitting on my bench. This is a Santoku for a friend of my son (the friend (fellow student) being someone who has worked in restaurants and likes to cook at home). Santoku, CPM154 at RHC 62, Rectagonal Wa handle with blackwood bolster and butt, and copper separators. The main part of the handle is one of those "mystery woods" I picked up from the grab box at woodcraft. I dont have any idea what it is .... and it is kind of a pain to work (it does not so much pull out as comes out in large fibrous pieces when sanding at rough grit) .... but I have really liked the way it finishes when sanded to finer grit and finished with wax.
(hmmm .... photo paste is not working .... will reboot and try again....)


Hmmm .... I cant seem to paste in an image. Stacy - have I run afoul of some sort of data capacity limit on the forum???
 
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what type of steel are you using for your knives?
For most of my production in stainless Sandvik 14C28N and for carbon steel Bohler K720.
Then I have a lot of other steels for special jobs. Keep in mind, I'm in Argentina, there is no AKS or NJSB around, so what special jobs mean to me is any knife not in these two steels that I have a ton ready to use and local providers. Even 14C28N I had to import a large batch (210kg) because it wasn't available in the thickness I use the most (2mm)

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Is that just for tempering, or do you somehow harden all of them at once like that??

That's (half) a batch of 14C28N, before hardening I stress relieve the whole lot so I have far less warpage after hardening. I use that jig for stress relieving and tempering. Hardening in small batches like everyone else.

Now thats crazy, you've got about 60-70 knifes going in at once? What was the mistake? How do you quench those? Whata the size of the chamber?

Sorry for all the questions, this got me really interested.

The mistake was that the jig moved the coil to the point it got stressed and while ramping temp it broke. Its a snug fit. Chamber is 180x130x400mm


Pablo
 
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