What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

N.W. Gean said:
I am actually waiting on a few Kydex items from knifekits.com. I ordered some press foam, a couple sheets of kydex, a hand setter, and some rivets. I was just wondering what I might be in for. After about 18 months of trying with leather, I am throwing in the towel for now.
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Bummer about the leather. Hopefully the kydex treats you better! I suggest making sure you keep one layer of tape on your blade while you do the sanding on the sheath, and then make sure you clean it out really good before trying with an unprotected blade. I scratched up my finish a bit because I neglected to do that...
 
Colby L. said:
Bummer about the leather. Hopefully the kydex treats you better! I suggest making sure you keep one layer of tape on your blade while you do the sanding on the sheath, and then make sure you clean it out really good before trying with an unprotected blade. I scratched up my finish a bit because It neglected to do that...
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I'm hoping that a quicker, better retention sheath process will spur me to make more knives faster :)

Shop scratches on my knives are the bane of my existence. WD 40 all over the place, taping stuff up and just general vigilance aren't stopping the issue. I tell my self it's okay because I make hard working knives. Side story to that last remark; My buddy took his blade (8670, 61.5 RC, ~ 0.018 edge) that I made for him and hacked it into a mattress, springs and all, to cut it up. The edge mostly dulled and rolled slightly in a couple places. I wish I had taken pics. I couldn't believe how little damage it sustained. Pops' 8670 is a hardworking steel, indeed.
 
N.W. Gean said:
I'm hoping that a quicker, better retention sheath process will spur me to make more knives faster :)

Shop scratches on my knives are the bane of my existence. WD 40 all over the place, taping stuff up and just general vigilance aren't stopping the issue. I tell my self it's okay because I make hard working knives. Side story to that last remark; My buddy took his blade (8670, 61.5 RC, ~ 0.018 edge) that I made for him and hacked it into a mattress, springs and all, to cut it up. The edge mostly dulled and rolled slightly in a couple places. I wish I had taken pics. I couldn't believe how little damage it sustained. Pops' 8670 is a hardworking steel, indeed.
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From my limited experience with kydex and from what other people say, kydex is notorious for scratching knives. I’ve used kydex for reinforcing my sheaths and eventually went to lining the kydex with thin leather and that cleared the issue up.
 
Scott Hanson said:
From my limited experience with kydex and from what other people say, kydex is notorious for scratching knives. I’ve used kydex for reinforcing my sheaths and eventually went to lining the kydex with thin leather and that cleared the issue up.
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What weight of leather are you using to line the sheaths? I understand that a lot of the scratches are from sanding to shape and not cleaning the inside of the finished sheath.
 
Forging three going to a cutlery shop in north France. Learning the rolling
Mill by working on tangs


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this steel

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FredyCro said:
Ground off too much off of the front of the scales after drilling the first holes. Had enough scale of on the bottom and just pushed it up and drilled new holes. Filled the rest with dummy pins. 😂
I also like the look 😁
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I'm glad you posted it because I have a couple of blades that something went wrong with and I have to grind them down but now my pins are going to be in the wrong spot and I have been scratching my head about how to make it work out. I'm going to be using it for sure myself.
 
Storm W said:
I'm glad you posted it because I have a couple of blades that something went wrong with and I have to grind them down but now my pins are going to be in the wrong spot and I have been scratching my head about how to make it work out. I'm going to be using it for sure myself.
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Yeah, my blades usually dont exactly turn out the way i designed them. I have been working more meticulously lately, trying to keep evetything straight and square from the beginning, scribing lines and grinding accurately to the lay out. I am getting there slowly, but sometimes adjusting the lines with the grinder instead of the pen gives me the right flow. Its for sure easy to get carried away 😅
 
N.W. Gean said:
What weight of leather are you using to line the sheaths? I understand that a lot of the scratches are from sanding to shape and not cleaning the inside of the finished sheath.
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The right thickness of tape and not creating an area in the sheath opening that pinches the blade are important, to avoid scratches. I have found that two layers of this heavier 3M masking tape is ideal.
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N.W. Gean said:
What weight of leather are you using to line the sheaths? I understand that a lot of the scratches are from sanding to shape and not cleaning the inside of the finished sheath.
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I use 1-2 ounce pig skin glove lining from Tandy Leather.
 
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