What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Rhinoknives1 said:
Here is one of my Rhino Chop Culinary knives that I finished today. 6 1/2" x 3/32" x 2 3/4" at the heel, Cpm-154 HTed by Bos to RC 60 with pinch grip holes and a wood called white teak that is stabilized but I am not sure if it's my thing?

The thing to remember is that i'am not buying it! lol. I alway have to remind myself that it's the customers likes that matter.View attachment 440499
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Laurence,

It's a wicked looking counter creation, I wouldn't put it in the drawer at my house.
 
Hey Nick, thanks for another great video! Your videos have helped me out tremendously! 'specialty the hand sanding one! Awesome stuff!
 
Working on a D2 Chisel Ground Tanto.

I have to decide if what color to wrap the handle...Red, Blue, Black, Green ito? With a nice dragon menuki. I am using tight bound cotton cord for the under-wrap and turks head.

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after watching this video i think many of my problems with my wood saw are from me not setting it up right so thats what im doing this afternoon
[video=youtube;wGbZqWac0jU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=wGbZqWac0jU[/video]
 
Butch- That is frick'n awesome, thank you for posting it brother! :cool: :thumbup:

Just the part about safely folding/unfolding a blade was brilliant. Even my machine shop instructor at the college would unfold a $200 blade by letting it spring out onto the concrete floor. One day I told him that in my home-shop, I used welding gloves and just man-handled them, but thought there must be a better way.... He replied, "Nope, throwing them is the best and safest way."

I just knew that m-f'er had to be wrong! :rolleyes: :D

Lots of awesome tips and advice in there Butch--- Thanks man! :thumbup: :)
 
cant believe how far out my saw was (and a shot guide baring ) im going to set it for resaw. as for the opening the blades i was much smarter about where i tossed my blades (into the grass) and then like you with gloves on hoping to not get smacked in the face :)
 
Oh, I don't uncoil saw blades by hand, that's dangerous. I get Jo to do it...
 
Now that was impressive. I will watch it over and over until it all sinks in.

My only problem that he didn't cover was "vibration". I have a "China-ville" direct drive Delta that shakes like a dog passing a peach seed. I have cussed it since day one.

Thanks Butch for sharing that info.
 
I haven't posted in this thread yet. I just don't stop and take the time to take pictures. I have been working on a lot of knives for Blade Show and orders. Most are just my standard designs that I use. This knife is something new that I have come up with. I got a little bit of the design and flow ideas from the Wheeler/Paranee project as well as the Knight/Paranee project. My thought was just a heavy duty, hard-working combat style knife.

One is in .220" CPM 3V at 60 Rc with black G10 scales and Corby bolts (first time using them). The other is in .275" S7 with canvas micarta and Corby bolts. The G10 one feels nice in the hand but I think I really like the heavy S7 one better. They both balance, surprisingly, right in front of the guard.

Any comments are welcome.

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S7
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i was on a roll in the shop doing clean and truing things. have a list of barrings i need ot pick up tomorrow and also jsut how out of adjustment my one gib was on my BP mill (that does not have X wipers) it has fresh felt on the Y and Z. now the problem is that my X gib hangs out 3/4 inch out of the saddle to get the play down to .002 wiggle. looks like i ll be shimming that slightly thicker for now till i can get a rebuild (building a set of wiper covers looks to be in order too)
 
Just finished wrapping the Chisel Ground Tanto. Still need to coat it and do some finish touches and make the sheath

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Nathan,
I am surprised that it wasn't successful with that double edge. Nice Piece.

Virgil,
Nice job on the chisel & wrap and glad to see you have the grind on the correct side for 90% of the population.
 
Robert, thank you so much. I just read
"I have a "China-ville" direct drive Delta that shakes like a dog passing a peach seed." and sprayed my breakfast all over the computer monitor. :)
 
Well, I recently got a "dry saw". A large, 14" 72 tooth carbide blade that spins at 1000 RPM and cuts steel a little slower than a mitre saw cuts oak. It took about 2 minutes to cut this piece of railroad track, which is likely hardened 1080. My band saw wouldn't even touch it. It takes about 6 seconds to cut each piece of the 2" channel shown or over 30 seconds on the bandsaw.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200326857_200326857

I also bought a ton of bricks. Literally, 2300 lbs. of bricks. It's enough bricks for 380 forges. Maybe I'll get around to building an oven out of them. Plenty to try designing a bigger forge.

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You just can't beat a good chop saw ;0)

I have to ask where did you run across a ton of fire bricks? thats just something you're not going to find everyday ;0)
 
A clearing house in Washington had them. $300 for the palette + $587 shipping to Iowa. Normal wholesale price per brick is around $3. They've had palettes of bricks on clearance for years, and this was the last one they had.

Oh, it's not a spark throwing chop saw, it's carbide. It throws a few sparks, but hardly any compared to an abrasive chop saw. The biggest drawback is the noise. It's louder than my portaband. Here's Chuckee2009's youtube review of it.
[youtube]Gedap0Js4gI[/youtube]
 
I probably shouldn't have used the generic term chop saw, for years i've objected to guys calling my miter box's chop saws ;0)
 
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