What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Suretouch is great. Best handle material yet, given the rubber in it doesn't age to a sticky mess like kraton...
 
First plastic sheath ...140 Celsius to soften this plastic from the sewer pipe and since it was pressed only by hands, it turned out great...........This one give me excellent idea.........Next one in Kevlar , on the same principle as this one but instead of temperature epoxy . I think it should work !
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I like that click sound when I push with thumb to unlock knife from sheath ............
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Edit.......Just to be clear , I used hands to press wood plate/foam /whatever you call it / to shape this plastic , not bare hands to shape it ...................
 
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Well, things don’t always go how we want them to. This is a 26c3 kitchen knife, and I sanded it to 1000 grit, and did a test etch in white vinegar. It looked like there was some nice cloudy action in it, but it wasn’t defining well, so I left it in the vinegar for another 20 minutes. This is what it came out like. It looks like decarb to me, but based on how much I ground off after heat treat, that is nor possible. It looks over etched, but I have seen this before when I underaustenitized a blade. But it came out at Rc64/65 after the first temper. I’ll sand it back, go finer, and etch lighter. It might just be a lousy hamon.


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Well, things don’t always go how we want them to. This is a 26c3 kitchen knife, and I sanded it to 1000 grit, and did a test etch in white vinegar. It looked like there was some nice cloudy action in it, but it wasn’t defining well, so I left it in the vinegar for another 20 minutes. This is what it came out like. It looks like decarb to me, but based on how much I ground off after heat treat, that is nor possible. It looks over etched, but I have seen this before when I underaustenitized a blade. But it came out at Rc64/65 after the first temper. I’ll sand it back, go finer, and etch lighter. It might just be a lousy hamon.


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ODzRlC5.jpg



JXVi1Uj.jpg
That's really interesting, I've never seen anything like that before!
 
My best guess is that when austenitizing at low temps like 1425f, for 26c3, or 1440f for 1084, to try to get extra activity in a hamon, I suspect I get m pearlite and martensite structures. What makes me wonder if this is the case though is that I seem to get full, or close (within 1- maybe 2 Rc points at the most) hardness. I’ll ask #Larrin and #DevinT what they think.
 
210mm White #1 San Mai Funayuki with M3/Carbon Fiber Burl handle all done!
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Video of the handle:

Chisel Pry knife in 5160 and custom tan/green burlap handle using glow in the dark epoxy pigment in the epoxy and inside of the pins.
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Sky Blue pigment and some Aqua mixed in (Aqua is brighter to help it glow more)
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First and last , no more integral knife in my shop .Maybe in my friend shop on CNC ! I finally grind bevels on this one , it s time to finish it .Not easy task for me with this one , but it is almost done now . Full Hollow bevels on my 17 inch wheel :) I really like 52100 . Good steel , easy to grind and hold sharp edge .Remains to mold somehow that carbon around tang :eek:
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First and last , no more integral knife in my shop .Maybe in my friend shop on CNC ! I finally grind bevels on this one , it s time to finish it .Not easy task for me with this one , but it is almost done now . Full Hollow bevels on my 17 inch wheel :) I really like 52100 . Good steel , easy to grind and hold sharp edge .Remains to mold somehow that carbon around tang :eek:
iWzzyrZ.jpg

QsnWDu6.jpg

6eHbjIM.jpg
I remember the press you were working on. Could you maybe make a mould molded by the shape of the tang, maybe some plastic or silicon. Like doing the rough shape of the handle scales in wood and use that for the negative of the mould.
 
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