What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

got this rig finished today
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FredyCro said:
I remember the press you were working on. Could you maybe make a mould molded by the shape of the tang, maybe some plastic or silicon. Like doing the rough shape of the handle scales in wood and use that for the negative of the mould.
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It can be done Fredy , we discussed that in other thread which I opened for this project .I want scale to be integral part of knife , molded on tang .But it seems that I want to much , unusual shape pins , hard chrome .... We shell see , it won't be easy but I'll finish as I imagined this knife at the beginning
 
navman said:
I still have one bar of 440V I purchased back in 1998 sitting in my steel bin (currently in storage). Thinking about making it into a skinner when I get set back up. Nice looking profile there Eric! Really enjoy your work.
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Me too , I think that Eric have bright future in knife world :thumbsup:
 
Over the years I’ve found that some woods just don’t buff out very well, even when stabilized. Thuya and redwood being a prime example. They seem to dull down and actually absorb some of the buffing compound. What does seem to work is sanding down to 800 grit, applying one coat of tongue oil, re-sanding to 1200, two coats of furniture wax, and the hand buffing with a microfiber cloth. Has anyone else discovered other techniques that work well for these woods?
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Among life, and other knives in process, it only took me something like a year to get these finished, sheaths and all. I think my sheathmaking is getting slowly better, though I still can not do basket weave worth anything at all..... There is a LOT of Horsewright influence in these - the knife pattern, his method for bolsters, and LOTS of repeated advice on sheath making . As stated previously, the damascus is from WEO. Thank you both!
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CThompson said:
Over the years I’ve found that some woods just don’t buff out very well, even when stabilized. Thuya and redwood being a prime example. They seem to dull down and actually absorb some of the buffing compound. What does seem to work is sanding down to 800 grit, applying one coat of tongue oil, re-sanding to 1200, two coats of furniture wax, and the hand buffing with a microfiber cloth. Has anyone else discovered other techniques that work well for these woods?
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Sand to 2500, and wax only.
 
I got a little shop time in this weekend. My muscle memory for grinding recurves is coming back.


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26c3, clayed for a hamon. Went with 1475 on this one.



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And as I was heat treating some knives for my friend Kim Nolan, I heat treated this one, that I forged two years ago, but never got around to heat treating. It seems to have held together, but I will see once I grind a bit more.


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Kydex in Macedonia ? What the hell is that , is answer I get :eek:
I make some research , It seems that this PVC is not such a bad material for sheath ? Need high heat , cool little to fast , but I have no idea how Kydex work ?
I make another one sheath .I improvised little and made that foam tool too ...it works :cool:
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eric brinkerhoff said:
I think you're on to the something there Mr. Natlek !
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If it's good enough to be buried in the ground for years it is good for sheath .So far I like it , so easy to make it . Just a few minutes of work if we don't count the time in the oven .
I make another one , I just practice the process and design on different knives :)
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This one is from unknown plastic ......................I don t like it , brittle !
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