What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Michael Black said:
Started a new batch of kitchen knives in a variety of steels new to me, which are almost ready for HT. Couple sujihiki and honesuki knives which I've never done, as well as a gyuto which is my first knife with Magnacut, so I'm excited about that one!
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You should put some taper in tangs ? At least half inch of tang from ricasso side which go inside handle should be little wider ? It does not harm anything and gives more strength where it matters .
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Jesse Latham said:
Thanks Dave! Looking forward to getting my hands on the sheath and knife. I enjoyed my visit with you. It’s easy to see why you are successful with your knives and leather work. Precision in both areas.
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Thank you sir! It was funhaving ya stop by.
 
I visit a lot of elementery schools for my job, so to me "sheeple friendly" is very important.
Those are not the places where you want to cut your apple wih a large razorsharp ti-handeled frame lock. I've made a slipjoint before and if you can make it, why not make it smaller?
A zulu-spear slipjoint because I like the flowing lines of it closed, and friendly red pink-ivory scales for a non-tactical look. (white g10 liners)
5cm/2" blade
I still have a lot to learn about slip joints but I'm happy with it being nr.6 for me.
First time grinding bevels post HT. I might stick to that.

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Mid size drop point EDC. 4" blade, 8" OAL. AEB-L at 62 RC, 0.08" stock, FFG with a distal taper. Brass bolster and pins. Curly maple handle. This is my first ever attempt with bolsters and plunge lines. It turned out well, but with a few things I know need to be improved. Mainly, more thoroughly peening the bolster pins, making sure my handle scales seat perfectly and don't twist during clamping, and general improvement in grinding the plunges thinner/flatter/symmetrical.

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First knife with a bolster and plunge lines. EDC with brass hardware and curly maple handle.
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My latest Kephart is in 8670 with home sourced (Arizona) Mesquite scales. I always try to hold to the original including light convexing to the spine and flared scale fronts. Pretty much ready to sharpen. This one's a 5" blade model. WIP1.JPGWIP2.JPG
 
Michael Black said:
Ouch. Is that from a carbide tipped hammer?
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Yeah, i think so, look at the deep impact mark, it is a masonry drill bit with dulled tip. The second one that cracked on me. Both undertempered I guess and I probably smacked this one just a bit too hard (material is only 1.2mm, 1.4034 at 61/62 HRC, the other one was 14c28n 2.5mm at 62/63 HRC).
 
FredyCro said:
Yeah, i think so, look at the deep impact mark, it is a masonry drill bit with dulled tip. The second one that cracked on me. Both undertempered I guess and I probably smacked this one just a bit too hard (material is only 1.2mm, 1.4034 at 61/62 HRC, the other one was 14c28n 2.5mm at 62/63 HRC).
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Next time try this , heat treat and temper rectangular piece of steel .Less chance of warping, easier to straighten in tempering stage and then find your knife inside ?
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john april said:
yes, temper first.
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They were tempered around 150 or 170°C, I guess that I was pushing the material too much. Live and learn. Or break knives and learn.
I was surprised that the 1.4034 were testing at 62 HRC, no charts suggest it can reach that hardness, but maybe the thin material is throwing the tester off?
 
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