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Finished this small EDC/hunter up the other day, it's the first of 30 in this design rocking CPM d2 at 62rc
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PEU said:
Easy. Laser cut the profile, HT, grind and then the edge was made with diamond coated cylinder on the drill press.

Made many prototype before sending to laser cut, these were made all by hand with the same cylinders, it can be done, but it takes a lot of time.


Pablo
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Hmmm. Iexperimented with a dremel diamond coated chainsaw sharpener in a dremel, but it failed miserably (too much chatter and chewed up the metal. Maybe too fast and not rigid enough.

Hmmm .... maybe if i used the same diamond tools in my mini mill, low rpm's, and rigid fixturing. Hmmmm.

Thanks. Beautiful work, as always!
 
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Cushing H. said:
Hmmm. Iexperimented with a dremel diamond coated chainsaw sharpener in a dremel, but it failed miserably (too much chatter and chewed up the metal. Maybe too fast and not rigid enough.

Hmmm .... maybe if i used the same diamond tools in my mini mill, low rpm's, and rigid fixturing. Hmmmm.

Thanks. Beautiful work, as always!
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I am not surprised with that . Diamonds in power tool and steel don t work .Why you don t use Dremel grinding stone bit ? Something like this

And if I ever make that kind of knife I will use my horizontal belt grinder with small wheel attachment for that .

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Natlek said:
I am not surprised with that . Diamonds in power tool and steel don t work .Why you don t use Dremel grinding stone bit ? Something like this

And if I ever make that kind of knife I will use my horizontal belt grinder with small wheel attachment for that .

​

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With hardened steel, wont the grinding wheels wear quickly, leading to non uniform geometries??

I *wish* I had a horizontal grinder..... but do not have one.
 
Natlek said:
I am not surprised with that . Diamonds in power tool and steel don t work .Why you don t use Dremel grinding stone bit ? Something like this

And if I ever make that kind of knife I will use my horizontal belt grinder with small wheel attachment for that .

​

Click to expand...

Well, I made prototypes with the diamond cylinder in the drill press, took time, but finished the knives. An horizontal grinder may be better, dunno, don't have one.

Pablo
 
Cushing H. said:
With hardened steel, wont the grinding wheels wear quickly, leading to non uniform geometries??

I *wish* I had a horizontal grinder..... but do not have one.
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They don t wear that fast if you know how to use them .And they are cheap so you can buy several in same shape you use for that .
 
I can't decide on my handle material, I'm thinking of doing a scale finish on the guard and matching with bocote (black+bocote looks really good). Any opinions?
Also, would a katana style construction (everything being held up by the pin) work as a kind of takedown on a knife?

View attachment 1749805
 
Tony Mont said:
I can't decide on my handle material, I'm thinking of doing a scale finish on the guard and matching with bocote (black+bocote looks really good). Any opinions?
Also, would a katana style construction (everything being held up by the pin) work as a kind of takedown on a knife?

View attachment 1749805
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If you bed the handle and have a very close fit, it would be ok for a display piece, and perhaps some light use. All the take down Bowies I've seen have a threaded nut.
 
i think the reason the katana pin functions so well is that the tsuka is of a softer wood, its almost slightly spongy like pine and seems to help keep the pin from moving. i have made some takedown handles of that style with micarta and ironwood, and i found the harder material makes it easier for the bamboo pin to work loose. then i made nickle mekugi pins, only slightly better but the had to be put in very firmly to not shift during use. and another note, they did not chop wood or logs with katana, i would not trust it. i think a gulso bolt would be a good choice, but in order to pressure fit all the pieces so there is no wiggle, there must be pressure toward the guard. thats why the pins are tapered. im not sure how you would achieve that.
 
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