What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

I was going to suggest red too! I think it goes well with any color, or a double liner of black next to the tang and white between the black and wood. Blue may look nice as well. I found white next to a steel tang often gets washed out color wise and isnt as visible.
 
If you bed the handle and have a very close fit, it would be ok for a display piece, and perhaps some light use. All the take down Bowies I've seen have a threaded nut.

i think the reason the katana pin functions so well is that the tsuka is of a softer wood, its almost slightly spongy like pine and seems to help keep the pin from moving. i have made some takedown handles of that style with micarta and ironwood, and i found the harder material makes it easier for the bamboo pin to work loose. then i made nickle mekugi pins, only slightly better but the had to be put in very firmly to not shift during use. and another note, they did not chop wood or logs with katana, i would not trust it. i think a gulso bolt would be a good choice, but in order to pressure fit all the pieces so there is no wiggle, there must be pressure toward the guard. thats why the pins are tapered. im not sure how you would achieve that.
First of all, thank you guys for your input!
Even though I doubt this knife will see any chopping action, it's better not to do it now. I think I should experiment a bit with the idea prior doing it for real.
 
Time waits for no one. Before I got sick I started a set of three kitchen knives and had almost finished the large one and had the blade taped up to protect it. I finally got the shop expansion complete and feel fit enough to start working on some pieces I had set aside, like this set. Unfortunately, the tape adhesive pitted the blade and it will be a few hours more work to make it right and even then it may become just a house knife.
HT to 62-63 by JT, 15n20 blade length 8.5” to bolster OAL 13-3/8”.
 

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Time waits for no one. Before I got sick I started a set of three kitchen knives and had almost finished the large one and had the blade taped up to protect it. I finally got the shop expansion complete and feel fit enough to start working on some pieces I had set aside, like this set. Unfortunately, the tape adhesive pitted the blade and it will be a few hours more work to make it right and even then it may become just a house knife.
HT to 62-63 by JT, 15n20 blade length 8.5” to bolster OAL 13-3/8”.
That sucks. I am finding all sorts of stuff like that after my shop was dark for a dozen years after I got sick. The pits was "finding" a Hank Knickmayer dha from my collection that I had taped up and it sat there. Lotsa work ahead to recover that one...
Good luck with the knife.
Hope you return to full health...
 
Here's my latest little edc - 7" OAL in NitroV. I haven't done more than half a dozen bolsters but these nickel silver ones turned out pretty good and I'll be doing several more. A ton of work on those little parts with my primitive tooling. They are finished at 2000 grit and buffed.
22-20 2.jpg22-20 3.jpg22-20 4.jpg
 
Oh boy. I'm slowly heat treating 24 8" AEB-L chef's, 14 petty's, and 14 paring knives. that will make 14 sets of 3 with matching scales, and an extra 10, 1 offs. I try to get one or two done every time I fire up the oven for others, since I don't like doing large quantities of the same knife over in a short period of time. They're my in-between projects, projects.

I have 3, 240mm gyuto, 2 AEB-L, 1 W2, to fit spacers to and get epoxied into handles, and to design a sujihiki. I have 3 blocks of bloomery steel, 2 with 6 folds, 1 with 2. The latter needs to be folded 4 more times, then amalgamated with the others, and that billet needs to be folded several more times, and hopefully by then I'll have enough still left over to draw out an o-tanto or wakizashi.

A w2 gyuto, and tanto to clay up for heat treating. A 5160 F/S-esque dagger blade to finish profiling and rough grind. 4 rough forged dagger blanks to surface grind and layout. A 12" bladed Nitro-V harpoon point camp knife to hand sand and finish. A bar of 304ss/w2 san-mai I drew out, needs to turn into something, if the welds held up. 3 Buck 110's to retrofit with CMP-M4 blades, whenever I decide I have the courage to tackle that particular monster, and a stone scaled chef knife to finish the handle on. And I have to figure out the internet in terms of gaining exposure and generating interest for my work, which honestly I find more daunting than anything directly pertinent to the practical elements of making knives.

Oh, and at some point I really need to finish sweeping the shop floor.
 

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Progress on my shop build in France
I got a sink installed !
Ordered flooring from a company in Germany, delivery two weeks
It’s 35m2 of thick rubber gym flooring that I will paint because it only comes in black. So if anyone has recommendations on polyurethane paint please let me know

Also I was up in the Paris shop for 10 days where I did 2 day knife making experience for three students and forged out 8 blades

 

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Progress on my shop build in France
I got a sink installed !
Ordered flooring from a company in Germany, delivery two weeks
It’s 35m2 of thick rubber gym flooring that I will paint because it only comes in black. So if anyone has recommendations on polyurethane paint please let me know

Also I was up in the Paris shop for 10 days where I did 2 day knife making experience for three students and forged out 8 blades

I love my shop sink.
Painting a rubber floor, sound like the paint will crack and fall off?
 
I love my shop sink.
Painting a rubber floor, sound like the paint will crack and fall off?
I don't wear gloves and wash my hands like 20 times a day ( not really but I need the sink)
the manufacturer said it was doable with polyurethane paint....
 
I don't wear gloves and wash my hands like 20 times a day ( not really but I need the sink)
the manufacturer said it was doable with polyurethane paint....

Ok, looking forward seeing the progress in the shop. Yep, the shop sinks are great
 
Ordered flooring . . .It’s 35m2 of thick rubber gym flooring
Are you planning on doing any forging in there? You will most likely have lots of little holes melted into the flooring from scale and dropped steel if so.
 
Are you planning on doing any forging in there? You will most likely have lots of little holes melted into the flooring from scale and dropped steel if so.
yes, I have a 91m2 square garage, only 35 m2 will be covered with flooring, the hot forge area is set back separately.
 
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Next up, another Marfione Customs stainless Hera😎 The customer asked me to come up with something in a Crusader Shields theme, this shields as scales idea popped into my head and I must say I'm digging it!

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