What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

I usually only go to 400 or 600 on a scalloped 2" J flex belt for Suretouch and then Tung Oil it to even out and darken the colors. I gotta use little to no pressure at the finer grits other wise I can really feel the ridges between the layers. Don't push hard enough to make the rubber indent. I like doing frame handles with it on hidden tangs, no metal tang to mess me up :)
 
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Scaniaman said:
I am all new to surface grinding. Just recently got an SGA and now it's up and running after a couple of fixes.

What is your grit progression when doing this??

I found it neccessary to start with 120 ceramic to remove peening marks and decarb. Then 220 ceramic and finally A45 Trizact (appr P400). I will finish with a little hand sanding with P400.

The blade is an updated hunter profile Magnacut that should be at 62 hrc if I've done things right.

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Now grind full flat or hollow bevels and all that work for what ?
 
It gets the blade flattened, at a known thickness and the flats are ready for a hand finish. Also makes sure there are no kinks/high/low spots, twists or warps before you start grinding.
 
Getting pretty close to being done with this quench tank I made. I just welded some steel I had laying around together, and bought a hinge for 2 dollars for the lid I made. Then put some self etching primer, and painted to hopefully keep the outside from rusting. I'm assuming the oil will protect the inside.

https://imgur.com/a/cGulHAG

I typed that first part before I tried filling it up. Afterwards I've been having a heck of a time trying to get it leak free. The main problem is I just can't completely tell where the leaks are, because the holes must be tiny. Because I cant see them with the naked eye. So now it's a mess of welds on welds trying to fix it. Super frustrating.
 
Blankblank said:
Getting pretty close to being done with this quench tank I made. I just welded some steel I had laying around together, and bought a hinge for 2 dollars for the lid I made. Then put some self etching primer, and painted to hopefully keep the outside from rusting. I'm assuming the oil will protect the inside.

https://imgur.com/a/cGulHAG

I typed that first part before I tried filling it up. Afterwards I've been having a heck of a time trying to get it leak free. The main problem is I just can't completely tell where the leaks are, because the holes must be tiny. Because I cant see them with the naked eye. So now it's a mess of welds on welds trying to fix it. Super frustrating.
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Your local weld shop should carry a product to find weld leaks. I don't remember what it's called but they will know. I believe it requires a UV light, but then again maybe not.
 
How was it welded? A friend said he always had leaks with Mig welding, but Tig welding disnt have the leaks. I used the gorilla spray leak stopper stuff on my tanks after slathering the weld joints with a thick layer of JB weld.
 
Taz said:
How was it welded? A friend said he always had leaks with Mig welding, but Tig welding disnt have the leaks. I used the gorilla spray leak stopper stuff on my tanks after slathering the weld joints with a thick layer of JB weld.
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It was flux core. So basically mig welding. I mean it's fine for structural stuff but, its definitely been a problem with this. The mai. Reason I havent done anything like jbweld, was because I wasn't sure how effective it would be on something containing oil.

If that works idk I might do that. And maybe use silicone or something almost like bondo and paint over it. I had it looking so nice in the picture. Now it's just. Blobs of weld chasing the leaks.
 
seanj said:
Your local weld shop should carry a product to find weld leaks. I don't remember what it's called but they will know. I believe it requires a UV light, but then again maybe not.
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One thing I'm concerned about is putting something inside that could contaminate the parks 50 if I don't clean it all out.
 
Once JB Weld cures, I don't think oil affects it at all? I used both tanks a few times (Parks 50 in a 4x4 tube and AAA in a 6" diam cylinder, both 24" tall) and it seems to be fine!
 
Taz said:
Once JB Weld cures, I don't think oil affects it at all? I used both tanks a few times (Parks 50 in a 4x4 tube and AAA in a 6" diam cylinder, both 24" tall) and it seems to be fine!
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Ok I'll go ahead and try that now. The storm knocked out the power here so nothing better to do.

Which kind of jb weld? The original or clear weld I have both
 
Blankblank said:
One thing I'm concerned about is putting something inside that could contaminate the parks 50 if I don't clean it all out.
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I'm not sure, but I believe it's put on the outside of the weld. I'll see what I can find out
 
seanj said:
I'm not sure, but I believe it's put on the outside of the weld. I'll see what I can find out
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One product I found is called

Magnaflux SKL-SP2 Solvent Removable Visible Dye Penetrant​


It leaves a bright red color by capillary action where ever there are cracks or flaws. It doesn't require a UV light either. Hope that helps
 
You could put a scrap of plywood on top with a hole just big enough for an air nozzle, then use soap spray at the bottom and look for bubbles. Might be tricky to get a good seal where the hinge is, hard to tell from the picture.
 
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