What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

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she's all packed up and ready for some hot action. Just gotta fill the dewar and then I'm gonna do er
 
Lorien said:
thanks man! I've been wanting to figure out how to do a plunge like this for a long time and somehow it seemed to work out today. I spilled my coffee this morning and broke my cup, so maybe that had something to do with it 🤔

I wanted to keep this blade full thickness along its length to minimize the chance of warping during the quench. So what I'm planning on doing is continuing the primary bevel through the swedge once it's heat treated, with the top of the bevel being about in line with the tip. The stock thickness should taper a lot where the two bevels meet so even though the grind line won't be too high up the geometry should be fairly acute toward the tip
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Ahh makes sense for sure!! The swooping plunge works really well if you twist the blade as you approach the choil (try it on some scrap steel to see what I mean) 😉
 
Scaniaman said:
Cleaned up this profile a bit, and think I'll just leave it like this on the flats. It's K390 at 66+ Hrc

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Where do you get your K390 from?
The only place I can find it is Alpha knife supply, and the thickest they have it is 0.085”
(Though your in Sweden so I’m sure that changes some things)
 
Yeah same I wish alpha had either more variety to choose from on the k390. .085 is just too thin. That and the a11 has been pretty much out for a minute now.
 
Been looking for some 1200grit silicon carbide powder in Europe to try on my hamon process, anyone knows a European source?
 
REK Knives said:
Ahh makes sense for sure!! The swooping plunge works really well if you twist the blade as you approach the choil (try it on some scrap steel to see what I mean) 😉
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the learning curve for developing some sensitivity with the grinder has been steep!
 
I haven’t sharpened it yet but other than that I finished this little skinner I’ve been working on over the weekend. The blade is heavily oiled in the pics but you get the idea. I used some cherry from a tree my dad cut about 10 years ago for the handles.E8E9C55C-05DF-4C1F-BCC4-7807E7389270.jpeg0F277F35-ACAE-455E-8D51-8EA83A5E67A6.jpeg
 
TheEdge01 said:
My first slip joint folder. This was quite the learning experience. I used a scrap piece of A2 for the blade and spring. My original plan was to only put jade green scales on it, but I ended up having to use some of my nickel silver for bolsters because I drilled a pivot hole in the wrong place. Any advice on adding nail nicks without a mill would be greatly appreciated.
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Looks good! The best success I had with nail nicks pre-mill was to pick a design that didn't need nail nicks ;). Seriously though, I had good success making long pulls with a dremel cutoff wheel in a drill press with a junky cross slide vise. It turned out much better than I expected. I used a dressed dremel cutoff wheel and files/paper to do traditional nail nicks, but only got so good at it. Certainly functional, but it eventually became the weak aesthetic point of my work. I tried using punches, but never got that quite right. I found it hard to get the depth needed without overly chipping the punch. Then I got a mill... I still use my punch to crisp up corners off the mill. I never tried it, but it would be intriguing to use a dremel/files to get the depth and shape needed, and then use the punch to crisp up the corners. Nail nicks were the bane of my existence for several months at the beginning of the year.
 
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