What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Gonna' be a busy weekend! Finishing the handles on a few, getting sheaths made and edges on these before Atlanta! Mostly S90V with some 10V and S110V thrown in.

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Bunker Hill Blades said:
I like that look! And I know it looks better in person!
What grit did you take it to before etch?
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2000, but I'll definitely be going higher next time.
Really gotta work on my finishing game, it's getting better but I think it'll be awhile yet. Hoping to learn some stuff at Blade to bring home so I can improve my work a little faster
 
Lorien said:
2000, but I'll definitely be going higher next time.
Really gotta work on my finishing game, it's getting better but I think it'll be awhile yet. Hoping to learn some stuff at Blade to bring home so I can improve my work a little faster
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Take this with a grain of salt because I’ve only done a couple hamons, but at that high of a grit I think your gonna be smearing the surface of the metal, you want an open grain structure for the etch. I think about 1000 grit is as high as you wanna go for a hamon.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith Joshua Fisher Joshua Fisher I know you guys know a lot more about hamons than I do, is that true?
 
Depends what kind of look you want. And how you want to produce the contrast.

If you want to go the more traditional route, you will be going to a basically mirror finish, and using very weak acid and loose abrasives for the contrast.

Or you can get to the 1000ish grit, use ferric chloride, and trizact polishing pads to remove excess oxides.
 
I’ve been wanting an adjustable knife vise for a while but didn’t really want to pay the price. Finally collected all the scraps I needed to build one. It’s definitely overbuilt but I’m only into it for the price of fasteners.
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ScarFoot said:
I’ve been wanting an adjustable knife vise for a while but didn’t really want to pay the price. Finally collected all the scraps I needed to build one. It’s definitely overbuilt but I’m only into it for the price of fasteners.
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Getting ready to do something similar with an old ball-hitch.
 
I sharpen my knives with a 1×30 belt sander. I've found that if I tilt the sander and then hold the knife perpendicular to the ground I get more consistent results. Problem is I had to shim the front of the belt sander to get the angle I wanted, not very stable.
So I built a hinged top on a small cabinet, bolted the sander to it, and cut dowel rods to raise it and tilt it to the correct angle. Or I can remove the dowels and use it as designed.

Also sorted all my foredom bits, mounted some boards with dowels on the wall to hang my 1x30 belts, and cleaned and sorted everything.

I'm somewhat OCD about having a clean work area. I tend to clean up my mess after each stage of a build.
 

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Working on a pair of a slicer and a filet knife for my cousins sea food restaurant. They cut tons of tuna and need slicers for carpaccio and raw fish.

Wanted to do a fast build with rough finish and fast handles, but it didn't really work out. I had two blanks and for the filet I already made the handle too narrow so I ground it down and tried "half-full tang“. I slotted the handle block with a table slaw and added g10 spacers in the gaps, but it was a mess and not a clean fit, in the end I ground into the cavity, but I don't have time to do a new handle. In the retrospective it would have much easier to build a half-frame handle with appropriate thick g10 spacer.

Filet is 1.5mm 1.4034 at 60 HRC and slicer is 2mm Nitro B at 62 HRC.

It the first time I did pukko style handle and I really like how it finds in the hand.

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