What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

[Hengelo_77]

Bart, that is a really nice mandrel. I have not seen that available in the USA. Where did you get it?

I find them very handy, they call them "quick change". I got mine a few years ago, probably from ebay.
This pic comes from the international Dremel website, that should make it easy to find.

 

[DanF]

Lowes has them-at least that’s where I found mine

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I found them. The are called Dremel EZ-drum mandrels

Looks like the reviews are mixed on how well it works.

 

[Hengelo_77]

I found them. The are called Dremel EZ-drum mandrels

Looks like the reviews are mixed on how well it works.

I put a bit of maskingtape on mine to make it a bit thicker. I figured I had to do that because I use cheap sanding sleeves.
I've been very happy with mine

 

[Natlek]

I found them. The are called Dremel EZ-drum mandrels

Looks like the reviews are mixed on how well it works.

I have several of them , hard to keep sanding sleeves on place . I don t like them ! Maybe I should don t like sanding sleevs , but they work on ordinary drum ...

 

[DanF]

Tape really helps, it is a necessity with them.

 

[Natlek]

Tape really helps, it is a necessity with them.

I know that Dan , but for 12 Euro it should work without tape !

 

[DanF]

For me, the time saved taking the manual one apart and then changing it out and putting the screw back in is worth the price.
But, we are all different, yes?

I think the rubber is different on them, I may have to try to switch the rubber from the manual onto the quick change.

But as you say, it should work better.

 

[A.McPherson]

Lowes has them-at least that’s where I found mine

That's where I got mine too, and the quick change cutoff tool as well.

 

[AVigil]

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I agree, the price would make me think they should work better. They looked interesting. The reviews and responses here tell me why none of the jewelry suppliers sell them.

I have bunches of the screw down type mandrels in1/4", 1/2", and 3/4", and they work fine. It takes a minute to change a sleeve, but otherwise they work without fail. I probably need to thin out my stash of sleeves, I have way too many zip-lock bags and boxes full of them.

I have found that the ones with a 1/4" shank and the nut at the bottom work much better than the ones with the screw at the top.

 

[ashwinearl]

WIP gunstock CPM-154, vintage micarta, shadow pattern.

I had a heck of a time drilling out the brass inset. Near as I can tell, the brass dust was clogging the cutting edge of the drill bit and just rubbing instead of cutting. It was making a squealing sound similar to when I clean out a hole on a hardened piece of steel or use a reamer to slightly open up a hole on hardened steel. In discussions with others, the speculation is I work hardened the brass. One of them also spun out during the drilling.

I tried again with stainless inset. Prior to installing it, I cut some v notches into the edges and bottom to give more places for glue to bond. I was starting to experience the inability to cut and finish the hole all the way through. I switched to small bit and got the hole through then went back to the 3/32 bit.

 

[WValtakis]

Man, this stuff is hard to track down and crazy expensive vs. glass beads but it does leave a really nice matte finish...time to clean out the blasting cabinet

 

[Lorien]

callin' this finished as of today

 

[fitzo]

callin' this finished as of today

Cool piece!!

 

[Lorien]

Cool piece!!

thank you

 

[ashwinearl]

Gunstock CPM-154 and Vintage Micarta . tough build . shadow pattern bushings gave me hell, then forgot one of the bronze washers and had to take it apart, and still thumbing its nose at me with blade centering

 

[ashwinearl]

disregard that last post.
Make slipjoints they said. It will be fun they said. Have a coupla laughs..

 

[Way-Barney]

disregard that last post.
Make slipjoints they said. It will be fun they said. Have a coupla laughs..

Looks like you may have got a micro-fracture at the jimping after hardening, what steel is it?
Edit just seen the steel.

 

[ashwinearl]

Looks like you may have got a micro-fracture at the jimping after hardening, what steel is it?
Edit just seen the steel.

I was trying some different approaches to getting the blade more towards center. The 'cutlering' method of hitting the blade when on angle. I'm thinking those methods only work for construction with tembered back tangs like hoe GEC does it? But good point on the jimping being a weak point. The long pull too was deeper than it should probably be.