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WIP gunstock CPM-154, vintage micarta, shadow pattern.

I had a heck of a time drilling out the brass inset. Near as I can tell, the brass dust was clogging the cutting edge of the drill bit and just rubbing instead of cutting. It was making a squealing sound similar to when I clean out a hole on a hardened piece of steel or use a reamer to slightly open up a hole on hardened steel. In discussions with others, the speculation is I work hardened the brass. One of them also spun out during the drilling.

I tried again with stainless inset. Prior to installing it, I cut some v notches into the edges and bottom to give more places for glue to bond. I was starting to experience the inability to cut and finish the hole all the way through. I switched to small bit and got the hole through then went back to the 3/32 bit.
I suggest you to try a better quality drill bits , new one not one sharpened by you . So what if brass work hardened ? It is still brass and quality HSS drill bit should drill like in butter .
 
I was trying some different approaches to getting the blade more towards center. The 'cutlering' method of hitting the blade when on angle. I'm thinking those methods only work for construction with tembered back tangs like hoe GEC does it? But good point on the jimping being a weak point. The long pull too was deeper than it should probably be.
I've had a blade snap and it was the sharpening choil. I made it with a sharp triangular needle file and that is where the crack started
 
Got myself a new drillpress. My old one is a cheap machine that I used and abused over the years and now has way to much run out to make slipjoints.
The new one is a lot more solid. It's not much bigger, the motor isn't more powerfull but it is build for precision.
The new one is for clean drilling only and I'm keeping the old one for if I want to do something a drill press doesn't like.

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20240118-131453.jpg
 
Got myself a new drillpress. My old one is a cheap machine that I used and abused over the years and now has way to much run out to make slipjoints.
The new one is a lot more solid. It's not much bigger, the motor isn't more powerfull but it is build for precision.
The new one is for clean drilling only and I'm keeping the old one for if I want to do something a drill press doesn't like.

20240118-131425.jpg


20240118-131453.jpg
Enjoy, thats a beauty, as bad as mine jammed up to the roof. :)
 
I suggest you to try a better quality drill bits , new one not one sharpened by you . So what if brass work hardened ? It is still brass and quality HSS drill bit should drill like in butter .
They were new bits. I think the cutting edge was just covered with metal dust and then just created friction. But agree they were not quality bits
 
Got myself a new drillpress. My old one is a cheap machine that I used and abused over the years and now has way to much run out to make slipjoints.
The new one is a lot more solid. It's not much bigger, the motor isn't more powerfull but it is build for precision.
The new one is for clean drilling only and I'm keeping the old one for if I want to do something a drill press doesn't like.

20240118-131425.jpg


20240118-131453.jpg
Do you know what the equivalent make/model would be in the US?
 
They were new bits. I think the cutting edge was just covered with metal dust and then just created friction. But agree they were not quality bits
Google this , my friend ...you will find some interesting tricks and tips .... :thumbsup: drill bits for brass or drilling brass
 
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Dry fit up of a Nakiri which is a first for me, also going to be interesting how this piece of Wolfram Special performs.
My cough highly scientific toughness tests suggest a substantial increase in toughness when normalized + annealed before austenitizing rather than using the material as received though (tested hardness is within .5 hrc as the non-previously annealed)
 
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