What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Certain companies keep the heat treat finish on the blade as a "finish."
 
I really like how clean your makers mark came out!
bladegrinder said:
Just heat treated this blade of CPM154, this has to be one of the nicer heat colored blades I've seen. I wish there was a way to preserve this finish, but....alas, it's gone now and on it's way to finishing.

lQtXOVa.jpg

vQy2WMe.jpg
Click to expand...
 
David Mary David Mary

Just less than 10 mins to crudely rough out rough edge. I just started doing This. Previously I just ground to my primary angle that I wanted....

I still don't know which is better. I haven't had anyone explain it to me that makes sense?
-so I'm trying it.



Used a very used ceramic belt, was maybe 60g. Should be thrown out.
After coffee break, I'm going to rough my primary.
That will take longer....but I'm a Slow maker.

Just over 7" blade, 60HRC
 
David Mary said:
Now you always know where the center is.
Click to expand...

But I Still have to do it the first time....

Here is 27 mins more, (Both sides of blade)
Including a belt change for a new 36g.



I'll now establish bevel, bring up shoulder, thin tip some, and start blending a convex.
It will be slower, and idk if I will post that time
 
David Mary said:
Crag the Brewer Crag the Brewer is this going to be a full height grind?
Click to expand...

Not really.... Higher than it currently is, but I'll round the shoulders to a convex.

Flat vex kinda like Yours, maybe a little more arched?

I usually go somewhere between flat and convex. I'll raise the grind some, and then blend it all in
 
regarding scribing a centerline. When I first started showing my work to some pros for criticism, I had one gentleman take his fingers and sort of pull the edge through his two pinched fingers. Without looking at the grind he told me my blade was wavy and the edge veered left as it got towards the tip. I looked at it under strong light and he was absolutely right! After that I started scribing a centerline using a pair of calipers. I mark the edge and the spine to the tip. Since then, I have had no issues keeping the edge grinds even.

Prior to this I did exactly as you described. Flat grind to the height I wanted...
 
navman said:
regarding scribing a centerline. When I first started showing my work to some pros for criticism, I had one gentleman take his fingers and sort of pull the edge through his two pinched fingers. Without looking at the grind he told me my blade was wavy and the edge veered left as it got towards the tip. I looked at it under strong light and he was absolutely right! After that I started scribing a centerline using a pair of calipers. I mark the edge and the spine to the tip. Since then, I have had no issues keeping the edge grinds even.

Prior to this I did exactly as you described. Flat grind to the height I wanted...
Click to expand...

Haha.... I Thought you were going to say that Now, you only slide your fingers down. Like the one guy did? That's pretty much what I do. 😬

I Was a tool room machinist for most of my life. I have lots of gauges, and tools still.
A height gauge and a scribe are still only accurate as a line. A line is pretty thick.
I don't feel (no pun intended) that I need them. For This....

A wiser man than me once said...... "We're not making watches"
I think there is A Lot of truth in that.
 
David Mary said:
My flatvex is 90% flat, 5% vex.
Click to expand...

Mine might only be 87%..... Idk?


I Did get 3 of the cheaper version of ceramic belts from Pops recently to try out.
The 36grit was only $7.
I Really liked the way the sparks flew. Seemed good/better than I'm used to.
Although it was soft (60HRC? Than I'm used to.... I'll definitely try it on harder stuff, but so far so good
 
navman said:
regarding scribing a centerline. When I first started showing my work to some pros for criticism, I had one gentleman take his fingers and sort of pull the edge through his two pinched fingers. Without looking at the grind he told me my blade was wavy and the edge veered left as it got towards the tip. I looked at it under strong light and he was absolutely right! After that I started scribing a centerline using a pair of calipers. I mark the edge and the spine to the tip. Since then, I have had no issues keeping the edge grinds even.

Prior to this I did exactly as you described. Flat grind to the height I wanted...
Click to expand...
The first few knives I made had edges that wandered around like crazy. Then I got a height gage and that really helped, both with my edges and my grinds in general.
 
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