What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Couple of Christmas presents;
My take on a Wakizashi; W2 with hamon line, blued steel tsuba, jute micarta handle and stainless steel pins with poplar scabbard. blade lenght is 22.5 inches with OAL arould 37" and weights in at 2 pounds 4 ounces. The handle is not epoxied. Drop the pins out and it all comes apart. Locks up solid with no rattle had to add a paper spacer between the handle and tsuba becuase over the last few weeks something shrunk about the width of a human hair and slightly loosend the lockup.20251224_112005.jpg
Nakiri in Magnacut with jute micarta handle and copper pins
20251224_111907.jpg
Makers mark etched with an xtools F1, 2 passes each IR and blue laser about 90%
 
oldschool45 said:
Makers mark etched with an xtools F1, 2 passes each IR and blue laser about 90%
Click to expand...
Do you find using both the IR and blue laser makes a difference? I've been only using the IR, also 2 passes at about 90%, and wonder if you do the IR first and then the blue, and what difference the blue makes as compared to the IR alone. Perhaps it allows a different speed or dpi?????
 
Ricky-O said:
Do you find using both the IR and blue laser makes a difference? I've been only using the IR, also 2 passes at about 90%, and wonder if you do the IR first and then the blue, and what difference the blue makes as compared to the IR alone. Perhaps it allows a different speed or dpi?????
Click to expand...
I haven't done a side by side test yet but I feel that doing the blue laser after the IR gives a better color to the mark. Same settings just changing the source. We just got the F1 before Thanksgiving and are stilling learning it.
 
Getting better at grinding.
Not good enough for a belt finish yet, but I'm enjoying the progress I'm making.

20251227-151357.jpg
 
See if you can find the Starcke 541JF felt backed finishing belts. They go up to 600 grit and give a very nice belt finish off a carbide platen, but since they are felt backed, can round off the crisp grind lines with too much pressure. Or the Cubitron 726A J Flex, no felt backer, so they keep grind lines crisper. I use the Cubitron 726A up to 400 grit and then the 400 and 600 felt backed belts and they leave a nice, clean satin finish and actually remove metal at those grits, even on 64 HRC magnacut! After that, I often go to a worn SIC cork belt with Black Magic buffing compound in it and it gives a nice belt finish.
 
gentleman_edc said:
So you press the scales separately?
I never thought of that I always figured a band saw was the only way to go.
Click to expand...
Like Taz said I’m gluing the liners to the scales in bulk. I don’t have tons of free time so I glue up a bunch of the color combos I get good feedback on. That way when I’m making a knife I can keep moving and don’t have to stop to glue them up.
 
Taz said:
He is gluing liners to the scales themselves. This is a nice way to do a bunch at once and not have them clamped everywhere individually!
Click to expand...
I found it’s anlso easier to keep from over clamping too. I made it with heavy “jaws” so the force is spread over the entire surface area of the scales and gets applied evenly.

Mainly built it so I could get them out of the way while they cure. I have very limited space.
 
Group photo of the 4 I finished this month. The knives were done in November but I took some time to make sheaths and sharpen them up.

Bit of a Mixed bag of shapes and sizes so I can test carrying and using some different styles, though all drop points on this batch. But so far they all turned into full flat grinds because I couldn't get my grind lines even so they just walk back and forth all the way to the spine. :) I'm thinking of trying a grinding jig next time instead of free handing it.

20251231_172359.jpg
 
BladeCommander said:
Group photo of the 4 I finished this month. The knives were done in November but I took some time to make sheaths and sharpen them up.

Bit of a Mixed bag of shapes and sizes so I can test carrying and using some different styles, though all drop points on this batch. But so far they all turned into full flat grinds because I couldn't get my grind lines even so they just walk back and forth all the way to the spine. :) I'm thinking of trying a grinding jig next time instead of free handing it.

View attachment 3063914
Click to expand...
A fine showing.....👌👌👌
 
Blade Commander, look into the Sorrells Brick. I picked up one and it works great! It has 4 angles machined into it, put the blade on the angle you want edge up, clamp in place and run the brick back and forth on your work rest. I use it mostly to rough in the bevels, get the edge centered and plunges lined up and then freehand the bevels to the spine since I do mostly full flat grinds, but it does give a nice, even bevel line if you are going for that look! If there is an angle that you want, but not machined, you can adjust your work rest a bit to get the other angle. 3, 4, 5 and 7 degrees are the angles that it has. I usually use the 7 to rough in, start bevels and center up the edge and plunges and then go to 3 to get it closer to the spine and then free hand from there. I mark the blade where it sits on the brick so when I flip it, it's in the same spot.
 
Taz said:
Blade Commander, look into the Sorrells Brick. I picked up one and it works great! It has 4 angles machined into it, put the blade on the angle you want edge up, clamp in place and run the brick back and forth on your work rest. I use it mostly to rough in the bevels, get the edge centered and plunges lined up and then freehand the bevels to the spine since I do mostly full flat grinds, but it does give a nice, even bevel line if you are going for that look! If there is an angle that you want, but not machined, you can adjust your work rest a bit to get the other angle. 3, 4, 5 and 7 degrees are the angles that it has. I usually use the 7 to rough in, start bevels and center up the edge and plunges and then go to 3 to get it closer to the spine and then free hand from there. I mark the blade where it sits on the brick so when I flip it, it's in the same spot.
Click to expand...

I recently picked one of these bricks from the exchange here and looking forward to trying it out.
It looks to be a no brainer for clean and even bevels... :cool:
 
Last edited:
Taz said:
Blade Commander, look into the Sorrells Brick. I picked up one and it works great! It has 4 angles machined into it, put the blade on the angle you want edge up, clamp in place and run the brick back and forth on your work rest. I use it mostly to rough in the bevels, get the edge centered and plunges lined up and then freehand the bevels to the spine since I do mostly full flat grinds, but it does give a nice, even bevel line if you are going for that look! If there is an angle that you want, but not machined, you can adjust your work rest a bit to get the other angle. 3, 4, 5 and 7 degrees are the angles that it has. I usually use the 7 to rough in, start bevels and center up the edge and plunges and then go to 3 to get it closer to the spine and then free hand from there. I mark the blade where it sits on the brick so when I flip it, it's in the same spot.
Click to expand...
I am familiar with that jig and it looks pretty handy. I thought it looked a little expensive for what it is, but I might have to try it out. Having something to get my bevels started evenly would be a massive help to my bevel quality. Too bad I missed the intro pricing a couple months back.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top