What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Also did a little prep work for dry ice slurry for the next batch of stainless. Half width 6" deep steam try pan with 2" thick R-10 insulation. Should hold 1.5 Gallons of denatured alcohol and ???crushed dry ice.20240915_181648.jpg20240915_181659.jpg
 
Also did a little prep work for dry ice slurry for the next batch of stainless. Half width 6" deep steam try pan with 2" thick R-10 insulation. Should hold 1.5 Gallons of denatured alcohol and ???crushed dry ice.View attachment 2662619View attachment 2662620
I think you dont need as much denatured alcohol, I would fill that with dry ice to the brink and add only as much alc as you need to make a slurry... My guestimate would be about 1-1.5 l max
 
Here’s a medium size Bowie I finished up today. It has a carbon steel blade and a crown stag handle. The spacer is desert iron wood with a brass button guard.
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I've heat treated this blade, but haven't touched it in a few months, so I guess it's about time to resume working on it. My idea right now is to try to make this knife have a rough-ish texture, so maybe a stonewash finish or something... we'll have to see.

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Finished four fixed blades for a gentleman. Got a good deal on some combo edged Spydercos after a couple guys expressed interest in having one similar to how I modded my own. So did two of those today, and I have three left to mod, either similarly, or into altogether different. The last pic is two I did today “technically yesterday, but meh” and the one I carry in town and at the shop. That one I’ve had a little while, started life as a plainedge, hence I was able to bevel it on the right side. Could have done that on these as well but would have lost more blade width than I’d want to give up for the sake of the mod. And I grind them thin enough behind the edge that (I’ve found) it really makes little difference which hand I hold the knife in for cutting. Feel precise either way. Oh yeah, and straightened spines, more rounded thumb hump, and crowned spines and humps. I still have to remove the blades and add detent ramps.... after dinner/breakfast.

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Got some shop time this past weekend!

Working on the last blade from my first Damascus Billet. Blue AmeriGrip handles, black/copper G10 guard:
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4, ~3" ish cutting edge blades in Nitro V. OD Green SureTouch, Phenolic Burl (black, brown, green?), Blue Canvas (blue jean look) Micarta, and OD Green Canvas/Natural Burlap handle materials.

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Started with the 4 hardened and profiled blanks and got them ground and handled in one day! Nitro V works so much easier than Magnacut! LOL.
 
It had everything, except hold the ketchup, add hot peppers. It was scrumptious.
 
grind a hollow in the handle with a small wheel, or the top idler wheel on the flat platen. works the same.
 
Pretty stoked about this project!

These are some custom fabricated bench dogs with a collar that is 3/16” tall. I’ll be installing them into a 1.5” thick piece of Richlite.

I use a combination of a 12” disc grinder and a 4” x 36” belt sander to clean up knife blocks for scales.

The 4” x 36” sander moves too fast to safely finish thin scales without the piece going flying, or losing some fingerprints. Because of that, I typically use a random orbit sander after the drum sander on scales that are under 3/8” thick (the drum sander doesn’t like the finer grits). It can be very hard to secure a piece that small, so I often hold the piece in my hand…. And I’m not trying to come down with vibration white finger.

I’m hoping this setup will allow me to secure scales as thin as a 1/4” to the piece of Richlite to make finish sanding scales for sale easier. It should be super quick and easy to swap out scales in the system too. We’ll see how it goes.

If it doesn’t work…. I’ll be spring for a custom made, variable speed 4x36” belt sander. Strangely there are zero true variable speed 4” belt sanders on the market. The closest I’ve found is a Jet for around a $1000 that only goes down to ~900sfm.

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