what's wrong whit Buck Knives?

Duane Sanders said:
These days he sticks with SK5.
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My experience was that SK5 rather sucked.
Dulled rather quickly, didn't resist dents from rocks any better than other steel.
Not that great.
At least when used out in "the real world."
 
stabman said:
My experience was that SK5 rather sucked.
Dulled rather quickly, didn't resist dents from rocks any better than other steel.
Not that great.
At least when used out it "the real world."
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Pssshhhh, you should get out more.
 
Wow............. Duane says 5160 is as rust resistant as 3v hahahahahahahaha
 
Quiet said:
Pssshhhh, you should get out more.
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Yeah, I know. :D

I don't mind what steel people like; in general, I'm just happy that they're out there using knives. :thumbup:

The problems come when they decide to become "Prophets of the most Holy and Only True Steel"...that tends to get really old.
They get all religious-like about it, even to the point of saying that "science doesn't apply in the real world."
 
Yo, he has lost the tiny teeny bit of credibility I afforded him for just being apart of the human race...

5160 as rust resistant as 3v hahahahahaha

Hey Duane ever heard of chromium ???? Do you know what role it plays in steel?

How much does 5160 have? Go ahead google it ... ill wait lol
Quiet said:
(facepalm)

I don't really know what else can be said at this point. Duane doesn't get it, and once again his fantasyland BS has sullied what was an actually good conversation. Criminy.
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stabman said:
There are many grades of pocket stones, and it doesn't cost much to get one that will sharpen whatever steel you like best.
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My favorite is fine (medium, really) DMT credit card stone.

As I noted earlier, that will raise a burr on my 440C in a few swipes. Wonderful for fast touch ups.

But repairing an edge... that takes longer. I can repair damaged 1095/420HC/12C27 on that DMT stone, but I wouldn't want to do that with 440C. And that's the point....

The central trade-off, as I see it, is abrasion resistance vs ease of sharpening. I just don't buy that you can get more of one without getting less of the other.

Again, to reiterate my central point... I don't argue that 1095/420HC/12C27 is better than, say, 3V. All I'm saying is that a) 1095, 420HC and 12C27 are very similar IME and b) plenty of folks continue to choose these steels over powdered steels like 3V largely for ease of sharpening.
 
5160 has 0.70 percent chromium

3v has 7.50 percent chromium

13 or 14 percent chromium is considered stainless

WRONG AGAIN DUANE.
 
pinnah said:
The central trade-off, as I see it, is abrasion resistance vs ease of sharpening. I just don't buy that you can get more of one without getting less of the other.

Again, to reiterate my central point... I don't argue that 1095/420HC/12C27 is better than, say, 3V. All I'm saying is that a) 1095, 420HC and 12C27 are very similar IME and b) plenty of folks continue to choose these steels over powdered steels like 3V largely for ease of sharpening.
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There will be some additional work involved.
And if that extra ease of sharpening is something you want, then going with those steels is the right choice for you. :)
Plus they happen to less expensive, so that's good too.

It always come back to the fact that there's no "best steel" that will fulfil every single application...it's always a balance that's achieved.
 
Quoted for posterity, just in case he tries to wiggle out of yet ANOTHER wrong statement:rolleyes:
Duane Sanders said:
Yes I have. I am rarely alone on my multi night trips. My brother who collects everything who has way more cooler knives than *** got brings any and everything out with us. These days he sticks with SK5. Guess how he came to that conclusion?

I have lived in the back country my whole life and deployed several times as an 11B. I know what knives are used on them 15 month rotations where the work load is 5-7 days out and 2 back to refit the entire 15 months. I'm still not telling anyone what they need to use or what I was told. *** refuse to accept lessons learned from people with different demands from a knife.

I am in a unique position where I don't have to listen to what I'm told. I have my own set of life experiences to draw on. Stop getting so fired up over it. No one is right, so stop telling me I am wrong. Yes 3V rusts. Seen it. Get out a little more and so will you. 5160 is just as rust resistant.
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Quiet said:
Ten bucks says this guy's gotten 3V mixed up with 01.
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Not sure what the message is, but O-1 is anything but rust-resistant. Not sure how 0-1 could be confused with CPM 3-v, but anything is possible.

There are differences of opinion between knife-makers of some repute about the rust-resistance of 3V. But as I used 1095 pretty much exclusively for a long time, I regard wiping off a knife and putting it away oiled as no big deal.

I like all my knives. That's why I still have them and use them. I am happy that you like yours.
 
I think quiets post was regarding pinnah not duane's totally incorrect statement.
Thomas Linton said:
Not sure what the message is, but O-1 is anything but rust-resistant. Not sure how 0_1 could be confused with CPM 3-v, but anything is possible.
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Quiet said:
Well, let's follow that train of thought. If you need to repair an edge, that would probably be because you were abusing the blade, no? So, given that that sort of misuse might be a possibility....why wouldn't we want to use a knife made of stronger, tougher steel again? Because I can tell you, if I was going to be in some sort of fantasy situation wherein my knife was required to function in some manner outside of its design parameters, my lesser knives are staying home, and I'm taking my Bussekin. Then, I can just sidestep the need for edge repair in the field altogether. :)
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Quiet,

I think we're up against a basic choice that hinges on philosophy of equipment choice. People will differ on it. As a long distance bike tourer and backcountry skier, I generally prefer equipment I know I can repair in the field.

We don't need to convince each other on this point. I'll only say the knife designers like Ron Hood, Randall & Perin (ESEE) and Ethan Becker choose fine carbide carbon steels and that for the life of me, I can't tell a meaningful difference between the 1095 I've handled and either Buck's 420HC or Opinel or Mora's 12C27. So, if I'm a fool for choosing fine carbide stainless, I'll go down in good company with other who prefer similar behaving steel for field and EDC use.

I like carbides for hunting and cardboard. I don't cut a lot of rope.
 
Thomas Linton said:
Not sure what the message is, but O-1 is anything but rust-resistant. Not sure how 0-1 could be confused with CPM 3-v, but anything is possible.

There are differences of opinion between knife-makers of some repute about the rust-resistance of 3V. But as I used 1095 pretty much exclusively for a long time, I regard wiping off a knife and putting it away oiled as no big deal.

I like all my knives. That's why I still have them and use them. I am happy that you like yours.
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That's the point I was making. 01 tool steel has low rust resistance, but is a pretty strong steel. 3V is a really strong steel that doesn't tend to rust. Hence my comment.
 
3V is nice steel. No question. But I'm still partial to 1095 and O-1 for general woods work. They are easier to sharpen in my experience.

I once asked knifemaker Daniel Stucky why he liked CPM-154. He said that if it was good enough for Bob Loveless, it was good enough. I couldn't argue with that.
 
pinnah said:
Quiet,

I think we're up against a basic choice that hinges on philosophy of equipment choice. People will differ on it. As a long distance bike tourer and backcountry skier, I generally prefer equipment I know I can repair in the field.

We don't need to convince each other on this point. I'll only say the knife designers like Ron Hood, Randall & Perin (ESEE) and Ethan Becker choose fine carbide carbon steels and that for the life of me, I can't tell a meaningful difference between the 1095 I've handled and either Buck's 420HC or Opinel or Mora's 12C27. So, if I'm a fool for choosing fine carbide stainless, I'll go down in good company with other who prefer similar behaving steel for field and EDC use.

I like carbides for hunting and cardboard. I don't cut a lot of rope.
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All of which is fine, I'm certainly not judging you for it. I merely see the argument of carrying equipment in the field that can be easily repaired as the opposite side of the coin of carrying equipment that's durable and shouldn't need repairing. As an example, when camping, my knives will generally see food prep, cordage cutting during camp-building, and maybe whittling a few sticks to bend into a meat rack for the fire for dinner. That's just my use case, I don't generally run my knives to dull in a weekend, or even a week. I tend to make sure they are seriously sharp before I leave for the trip. I know others prefer to go out and build structure-based shelters and so bring tools for that sort of job so I understand that they might need to bring along maintenance tools.

I have backpacked, and camped for many years myself and not once in all that time have I broken a knife, or found myself needing to do necessary edge maintenance. To be fair, all of my experience is in the woods of Georgia and Florida. Wood has never been hard to find for the taking, just lying on the ground. So, I've not ever needed to do extensive wood processing, which to me, tends to just be something that people do for Youtube videos. :thumbup:
 
Haven't read the whole tread, but picked up a Buck 110 from Walmart, it came in a blister pack. it was the last one on the rack, so I grabbed it. Did I need it, probably not, haven't had one in years beside the 112 I had since the early 90s. Anyhow opened it at home &
 
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