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When it comes to your EDC, how much - if any - blade play is acceptable?

Since there is always a Spyderco Chaparral in my pocket or rucksack blade play isn’t an issue. It has the “feel” of a fixed blade when locked up and the smooth action of a custom with its walk and talk. There isn’t a fraction of a delicate red nether hair of movement (the industry term being RPH). Lock rock is detestable.

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I don’t understand the concern about a little play is the knife going to fall apart? Does the play in the blade cause your cuts to be inaccurate?

A little play in a ball joint or control arm bushing won’t make your car fall apart either, but some people would just rather having things right and tight.

It’s not “concern”, it’s just a preference for things to be put together right.
 
A little play in a ball joint or control arm bushing won’t make your car fall apart either, but some people would just rather having things right and tight.

It’s not “concern”, it’s just a preference for things to be put together right.
There is play in your ball joint or it couldn’t move and control arm bushings flex like crazy . But I get your point
 
I prefer none and have lots of knives with none, including budget liner locks with great action. Some required Skiff bearings to get there but overall, lots of companies just seem to be doing a better job lately. (Heck, Kizer even has budget knives running on multi-row bearings now.)

On knives that have it, whether or not I'll tolerate it depends on a lot of factors. For instance, I'm much more picky as the price goes up. Also, I'm more tolerant of lateral play than I am lock rock. On something like a Spyderco Dragonfly--a lock-back that doesn't even use washers or bearings--I tolerate a much higher degree of play because the the half-and-half choil or whatever means I'm always holding the base of the blade between my thumb and forefinger anyway.
 
I hate lock stick, lock rock, blade play, etc. I tolerate a tiny bit on my benchmades but barely. My new Rockwall V2 flipper has amazing lockup and action and an excellent edc. Never had a liner lock with such a solid lockup and tight tolerances before. Second only to my ZT 0308 in lockup.
 
Microscopic if at all. Needs to act like a fixed blade when open, everything else after that. Looking for rock solid lock-up every time.
 
Depends. Some traditional lockback knives have a bit of blade play (means if I grab the blade with my fingers I can force it up and down a tiny bit), and I'm OK with that. For a truly traditional design, it's difficult to eliminate vertical blade play. The tolerances required to eliminate blade play on such a knife are incredibly tight.

On many modern lockbacks, the designers have diddled with the geometry of the lock interface, and I seldom find blade play on those.

I don't accept vertical blade play on other types of locks. If there is any the knife goes into the "for reference only, do not carry" box.

I'm not OK with side-to side blade play in the open position on any knife.
I agree and struggled to expound on your answer. I feel the same
 
I carry a folder and a fixed blade every single day so I don’t worry about blade play very much.
 
As many here already said, I also always carry a fixed and a folder.

All tasks that involve any chance of "unintentionally" closing the knife are fixed knife tasks.

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But to answer the question: If the knife does not feel safe when working with it, then I won't use it.
 
This exactly. Seki lockbacks and other "older" style lockbacks a small amount of lock rock is ok. Anything else no thanks.
If you mean that the back lock from a Native 5 (Golden factory, USA production) is “older style” as well I agree, as in the technical dna of the Native 5 it is enclosed to have a tiny bit of lock rock when you push the openend blade with enough pressure onto a hard surface. This is because the Native 5 dies not have a stop pin ( not really needed either ) to avoid that slight tension wiggle up en down . Just belongs to the construction but so many people seen to be annoyed by it. In case you don’t want this “lock rock” at all you can buy knives like the Chaparral , knives with Tri-Ad lock, Shark Lock a.o. Those have added stop pins into the equation…😉
 
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I have side to side blade play in my hogue deka and bugout I can't adjust out my moving the pivot screw, because if I tighten it even a tiny bit more then the axis lock is too tight to operate, but I got it to the point where its minimum and so I just shrug at it, makes it feel like its not a solid knife but neither model by design is a heavy performer so its what it is, so im okay with some (a little) blade play depending on the direction it takes
 
I have side to side blade play in my hogue deka and bugout I can't adjust out my moving the pivot screw, because if I tighten it even a tiny bit more then the axis lock is too tight to operate, but I got it to the point where its minimum and so I just shrug at it, makes it feel like its not a solid knife but neither model by design is a heavy performer so its what it is, so im okay with some (a little) blade play depending on the direction it takes
It’s just that people expect a “flip-flop” ( drop shut😉) blade …. Imagine how tight tolerances have to be in order to have a blade completely move freely and have zero play. Micro adjustments will get you there at a specific point somewhere adjusting the pivot but why not live with a slightly hydraulic feel . You can still flic it open and close it by tapping your index finger on the back of the blade . Super nice …. Less clic-clac , better for the lifespan of your knife and less intimidating for others. AND NO PLADE PLAY! These are my2 cents with Bugout and allikes!
 
It’s just that people expect a “flip-flop” ( drop shut😉) blade …. Imagine how tight tolerances have to be in order to have a blade completely move freely and have zero play. Micro adjustments will get you there at a specific point somewhere adjusting the pivot but why not live with a slightly hydraulic feel . You can still flic it open and close it by tapping your index finger on the back of the blade . Super nice …. Less clic-clac , better for the lifespan of your knife and less intimidating for others. AND NO PLADE PLAY! These are my2 cents with Bugout and allikes!
I actually prefer that slightly hydraulic feel to drop-shutty. I would much rather have that control, especially for closing, no matter what position the knife is in.
 
No movement of the blade in it's lockup is acceptable

Horizontal is definitely less worrying than vertical, but if there's play in my knife, good excuse to buy another 🤣

Play between like a half liner and the scales is fine though

That said I've never had a blade have vertical play, and very rarely horizontal
 
No movement of the blade in it's lockup is acceptable

Horizontal is definitely less worrying than vertical, but if there's play in my knife, good excuse to buy another 🤣

Play between like a half liner and the scales is fine though

That said I've never had a blade have vertical play, and very rarely horizontal
“No movement of the blade in it's lockup is acceptable”
Well most owners of edc knives around the globe can return their knives to the shop then😂😅
 
It’s just that people expect a “flip-flop” ( drop shut😉) blade …. Imagine how tight tolerances have to be in order to have a blade completely move freely and have zero play. Micro adjustments will get you there at a specific point somewhere adjusting the pivot but why not live with a slightly hydraulic feel . You can still flic it open and close it by tapping your index finger on the back of the blade . Super nice …. Less clic-clac , better for the lifespan of your knife and less intimidating for others. AND NO PLADE PLAY! These are my2 cents with Bugout and allikes!
You must not have experienced a ZT0640 or the LG MK3 😁 heck all my Talos(s) are very smooth shut with no play...
 
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