When it comes to your EDC, how much - if any - blade play is acceptable?

.Never bladeplay issues….. ( exept for “ built in “ lock rock when opened blade is pushed (very) hard onto a solid surface).

That's not lock rock. That's flex. Not the same thing at all. And flex is a product of several factors and it's not inherently a defect.
 
I want to post here some experience I had with “lock rock” in a Nativ 5 with after market scales and how I solved it.
If the pin that goes through the lockbar does not get “press-fit” into the scales the slightest space in that connection creates the lock rock. With G10 and FRN handles of several Native 5’s I tested NO lock rock was there as these scale materials allow for a super tight fittings of the pin (that goes through the lock bar) into the scales. With AWT aluminium scales and my Micarta scales from a third party supplier the fitting leaves very slight space that causes lock rock. I solved this by wrapping 2-3 times a thin , small cut band of plumbers tape around that area of the pin that goes on both sides into the scales and “problem” fixed. So only around the wider part of the pin that goes into the “pockets” of the scales, not the pointy end that you can see from the outside. Now with the tighter fitting the lockbar cannot go anywhere and lock rock cannot occur. Again it is all about tolerances in fitting parts together.

I have also tried an other well working method:

I put a small drop of Bison PolyMax (or a similar adhesive) into the recess of the handle scale where the lockbar pin sits. I only do this on one side — otherwise you won’t be able to take the knife apart properly later on. Make sure the recess is well filled, but not so much that when you press the pin back in, the glue gets forced inward toward the pivot. It should only stay in the round recess where the pin actually sits.

When you push the pin back in, a little glue may squeeze out on the outside of the scale. Just wipe that off right away. Once the scale is screwed back on and everything is tightened, let it cure for at least 4 hours — and you’re done!

The lock rock is completely gone, because the tiny play between the lockbar pin and the recess in the scale has been filled. In this case with a very tough, slightly elastic material. Sort of flexible bushing was created. You could do the same with a two-part epoxy or even superglue, but that would be irreversible, which I didn’t want.

The only thing to remember when disassembling later is which side you glued the lockbar to — make sure to keep the lockbar attached to that same scale (left or right).

With this method the Bison Polymax kit ( tranparant, High Tack Express) replaces the plumbers tape more or less. I believe the “Bison Method” is better and easier. Both work flawless if well executed though.
 
If you mean that the back lock from a Native 5 (Golden factory, USA production) is “older style” as well I agree, as in the technical dna of the Native 5 it is enclosed to have a tiny bit of lock rock when you push the openend blade with enough pressure onto a hard surface. This is because the Native 5 dies not have a stop pin ( not really needed either ) to avoid that slight tension wiggle up en down . Just belongs to the construction but so many people seen to be annoyed by it. In case you don’t want this “lock rock” at all you can buy knives like the Chaparral , knives with Tri-Ad lock, Shark Lock a.o. Those have added stop pins into the equation…😉
This is a good explanation and I agree it's a non-issue. Still, technically it is lock rock, or vertical blade play.

For those who swear none blade play l, do you own or use any Spyderco lookckback folders?
 
I got spoiled by all my Tri-ad lock folders , that lock up rock solid . Feel like fixed blades .

Now, it just feels wrong to have play , even when I know there's no safety or functional issue .
Yeah - tri ad lock can be clunky and sometimes Even bite my fingers if I am not careful enough when opening/closing the blade. But once locked, I trust the safety of no other locking mechanisms than the tri ad lock.
 
Came back to this thread with my Victorinox Equestrian in one hand and a cocktail in another. All day I've been picking out hooves, cutting open hay bales, opening up bags of grain, and punching holes in leather. What's the problem with blade play? The knife cuts, punctures, and scrapes! FFS, just use yer knives, friends! 😆

OK, maybe this is the cocktail 🍸 speaking.

dWuUAb7.jpg


( marthinus marthinus )
 
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This is a good explanation and I agree it's a non-issue. Still, technically it is lock rock, or vertical blade play.

For those who swear none blade play l, do you own or use any Spyderco lookckback folders?
Do I own any Spyderco lockbacks? Yes. Do I carry and or use them? Nope. Have a couple for sentimental reasons, but i dont carry them. They all have slight side to side play. I'm a no play guy.
 
Do I own any Spyderco lockbacks? Yes. Do I carry and or use them? Nope. Have a couple for sentimental reasons, but i dont carry them. They all have slight side to side play. I'm a no play guy.
Well…. Side to side play is more rare in a lockback than in any other lock. You probably can tighten a screw here and there …🫣
 
That's not lock rock. That's flex. Not the same thing at all. And flex is a product of several factors and it's not inherently a defect.
Nobody said something about a defect here. And nice that you use the word “flex” for what anyone else here uses and understands as “ lock rock”.
 
Nobody said something about a defect here. And nice that you use the word “flex” for what anyone else here uses and understands as “ lock rock”.
On the contrary, you're the only person I can recall that refers to what you described (and what I quoted) as "lock rock".

Feeling movement while pushing down on the blade with excessive force in just one direction is feeling the lock bar flexing under that strain.

Feeling movement while wiggling the blade up and down is lock rock. Hence the name, as you feel the blade "rocking" up and down. It is almost always caused by too much contact area in the interface.

Lock rock is unacceptable and a defect. Lock flex isn't.
 
Normally I would say zero. But I just picked up a Delica 4 with slight vertical play, very slight. My understanding is that sypdercos opinion is that is normal. So in this case I am accepting it.

On the contrary, you're the only person I can recall that refers to what you described (and what I quoted) as "lock rock".

Feeling movement while pushing down on the blade with excessive force in just one direction is feeling the lock bar flexing under that strain.

Feeling movement while wiggling the blade up and down is lock rock. Hence the name, as you feel the blade "rocking" up and down. It is almost always caused by too much contact area in the interface.

Lock rock is unacceptable and a defect. Lock flex isn't.
Okidoo…. Rockbar flex it is .. my native 5 was with NOT exessive force down in open position on a cutting board moving the lockbar AND moving the same way when wiggling the blad up and down.
So…Lock flexrock I guess 😬
 
Came back to this thread with my Victorinox Equestrian in one hand and a cocktail in another. All day I've been picking out hooves, cutting open hay bales, opening up bags of grain, and punching holes in leather. What's the problem with blade play? The knife cuts, punctures, and scrapes! FFS, just use yer knives, friends! 😆

OK, maybe this is the cocktail 🍸 speaking.

dWuUAb7.jpg


( marthinus marthinus )

Wait a minute... you actually use your knives? What kind of monster are you?

I usually carry a small fixed blade...so...none. :)

I guess you technically could have some blade play, but only once and there might be other complications involved.
 
The longer Ive been in the knife game the less the play matters to me, I don't want it so excessive I can feel it in a normal cut, but a little side to side is no issue. Up/down does bother me however.
 
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