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When it comes to your EDC, how much - if any - blade play is acceptable?

“No movement of the blade in it's lockup is acceptable”
Well most owners of edc knives around the globe can return their knives to the shop then😂

Went through my manixes and I think at the very tip of the (4") knife I can get it to move like 10 -15 mils in like, a very mushy way that I'm not completely sure isn't just me bending the blade and lock. My Kizers are shorter knives and those I couldn't get to move horizontally at all
 
My para 3 magnacut is developing its own drop shut action without any tinkering on my part, annoying because as I've stated im a lefty so it presents a slightly elevated hazard when closing the compression lock because the knife blade wants to drop like a guillotine, i dont need any knife to do that, really--- but no play in any way. As I age im becoming less worried about play, I think 3 of my knives have play i can't tweak out.. 🤷🏼‍♂️
 
When it comes to your EDC, how much - if any - blade play is acceptable? For me, I don't tolerate vertical blade play...PERIOD. However, I'm okay with some very slight horizontal play on EDC knives at certain price points. I mean, that seems to be an issue that just about everyone will have at some point with EDC blades for various reasons. If it does not affect functionality or security of the lock, slight horizontal blade play is permissible on some knives, but that doesn't mean I like it. In fact, I really admire my EDC options that literally have no blade play whatsoever. I don't think there's a right or wrong answer here. It's just a matter of personal preference, but I'm interested in the issue and other people's opinions about it.
For me, the term "EDC" means that that is the life that comes with me whenever I put on my pants, along with keys and wallet.

My EDC since the mid 1990s has been one or another version of the Leastherman Wave. Currently, it is a Wave Plus. I have never experienced any play in either the plane blade or the serrated blade on any of them . . .not vertical nor side-to-side.

Previous to that, my EDC was either a Buck 110 or 112. These knives would invariably develop lateral play as the handle loosened up on its pins. I have long thought that Buck could figure out how to keep that from happening. The lock up never loosened on any of them. . . .so they got that design element right.
 
If you mean that the back lock from a Native 5 (Golden factory, USA production) is “older style” as well I agree, as in the technical dna of the Native 5 it is enclosed to have a tiny bit of lock rock when you push the openend blade with enough pressure onto a hard surface. This is because the Native 5 dies not have a stop pin ( not really needed either ) to avoid that slight tension wiggle up en down . Just belongs to the construction but so many people seen to be annoyed by it. In case you don’t want this “lock rock” at all you can buy knives like the Chaparral , knives with Tri-Ad lock, Shark Lock a.o. Those have added stop pins into the equation…😉
I assumed something was slightly different on the Golden lockbacks. Mine all have had zero rock even the lightweight models.
 
I assumed something was slightly different on the Golden lockbacks. Mine all have had zero rock even the lightweight models.
Just open the knife and press hard with the blade on something ( like a cutting board or so) and you will notice even the slightest “click” movement. You can also visualy see it on the slightest movement on the backside. ( note that Chapparal does not show this)
 
I got spoiled by all my Tri-ad lock folders , that lock up rock solid . Feel like fixed blades .

Now, it just feels wrong to have play , even when I know there's no safety or functional issue .
 
I got spoiled by all my Tri-ad lock folders , that lock up rock solid . Feel like fixed blades .

Now, it just feels wrong to have play , even when I know there's no safety or functional issue .
Agreed - nothing is stronger than Cold Steel Tri-ad lock folding knives, and there is never a concern for blade play of any kind.

I don't always carry large, robust folding knives, but when I do, I prefer the Cold Steel AD-10.
 
I don't worry much about it. If a folding knife has a little it's no big deal. I am not using them for super hard tasks. I have fixed blades for that.
 
Even my Queens, and Boker trads have zero-play. Rest of the stable are Al Mar back-locks, Benchmade Axis, Spydie and Buck back-locks, Cold Steel triads. The Off Grids are liner-locks that are super-tight. So are my Zero Tolerance 300-series. I guess, its a non-existent problem as far as I'm concerned. So, I'll have to agree with Terry M., on this one!
 
Even my Queens, and Boker trads have zero-play. Rest of the stable are Al Mar back-locks, Benchmade Axis, Spydie and Buck back-locks, Cold Steel triads. The Off Grids are liner-locks that are super-tight. So are my Zero Tolerance 300-series. I guess, its a non-existent problem as far as I'm concerned. So, I'll have to agree with Terry M., on this one!
If something , in this case blade play, is not a problem for you, that doe not mean that the problem is “non existent” . Hundreds of postings on many forums have dealt with the “ bladeplay issue” . It would be weird to think that all these people talk about something that is “non existing”. But nice to hear that the issue is non of your concern ! 👍🏻
 
Folders? IMHO depends on original quality of construction and material used.

I'll "tolerate" more "adjustable" play in a "decent" folder than I would expect in a "High-end" folder, but only so long as both folders can be carefully adjusted to be satisfactory.

If the amount of "play" cannot be remediated by the user, then the knife will be removed from use. All aside from locking mechanism/safety mechanism, of course.
 
Folders? IMHO depends on original quality of construction and material used.

I'll "tolerate" more "adjustable" play in a "decent" folder than I would expect in a "High-end" folder, but only so long as both folders can be carefully adjusted to be satisfactory.

If the amount of "play" cannot be remediated by the user, then the knife will be removed from use. All aside from locking mechanism/safety mechanism, of course.
Agree and good consideration. 99% of bladeplay cases people talk about can be eliminated by tightening the pivot pressure. However the often required fidget factor will be at stake when doing so. Ha.ha… flip-flop knives are always balancing on exactly that point of yes/no bladeplay, yes/no drop shut…. That is why I favor my Native 5 😀. Always rock solid…. Does not bring up the urge to flip-flop around with . Hydrolic smooth thumb opening and no more banging on stop pins🫣. No more people staring at you with fear when you are “flashing around” with a razor sharp blade. And on top of that….Never bladeplay issues….. ( exept for “ built in “ lock rock when opened blade is pushed (very) hard onto a solid surface). This should not hold back anyone who enjoys tinkering around that perfect balance of solid lock up en the desired degree of fidgetness. Keep having fun and also I switch according to mood from back lock to axis lock to compression lock. All tuned with pleasure to how I like them to behave . Not all came without frustrations ……😡😤😉

And last but not least least there are people that don’t give a damn about a bit of bladeplay or other minor fine tuning affairs. They are probably never experiencing any less well functioning cutting experiences as us nitpickers and are having better peace of mind 😅. I wish I was one of them….😔
 
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Absolute ZERO! None, nada, zilch.

In this day and age, with modern manufacturing processes, there is no excuse for blade play, and I will not tolerate it.

However, OTF autos, are a different thing, and I don't have a problem with them. It's just the nature of the animal due to the nature of the mechanism. Except for recent designs, but I'm not going to pay over $1K for an OTF.

Any way: JMHO, YMMV.
 
Absolute ZERO! None, nada, zilch.

In this day and age, with modern manufacturing processes, there is no excuse for blade play, and I will not tolerate it.

However, OTF autos, are a different thing, and I don't have a problem with them. It's just the nature of the animal due to the nature of the mechanism. Except for recent designs, but I'm not going to pay over $1K for an OTF.

Any way: JMHO, YMMV.
You make a great point about OTFs. I have a nice OTF with minimal blade play, and I do think that's acceptable for that kind of knife.
 
What ever amount of blade play is in the SWISS SOLDIER'S KNIFE.

Proved to me that blade play does not mean unreliable.
 
I don't have any "High-End" folders, but I have quite a few "Middlin" folders and a few "low-end" folders.

So long as I can carefully adjust things, all of them can serve their intended purposes well. If adjustment is not possible, the knives are sold/given away.

Points made about OTF knives seem "useful", given context.

I have some ancient German "Gravity knives" and their blade flop, in all directions, would make most folks cringe. If deployed in an "emergency situation" I reckon the "blade flop" would be least of User's concerns.
 
I absolutely despise blade play: side to side seems common in traditionals under $150. However I do put up with it if there’s nice walk n talk (strong snap).
 
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