Who else uses a scythe?

You can certainly make your own. An understanding of how the ergonomics function will help in putting together a comfortable one. Just think about where you want your hands to be, how you want the blade to lay, and then use the wood to connect the dots.
 
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alright, i put one together, dont expect to be impressed, i did the best with what i had laying around, excuse the use of hose clamps to hold the blade on, i have literally nothing else. i'll try to get pictures soon. i had to do quite a bit to the blade, because i was stupid and tried to make it a machete at first and i was terrible with a grinder, so that took about 2 hours to fix, then i had to make my snaft, using the blade as a drawknife was the best idea i had today, i dont think i have my angles right, but i'll have to get the blade on and check. but i dont think it turned out horrible for my first snaft that was literally thrown together. I've been lookin for an intermediate between my brush axe and a.... well i just needed something for medium-small brush
 
Hose clamps are going to break. A better method of attachment would be to get a piece of large-ish black iron pipe and squash it into an oval shape (preferably using a vise but a hammer can work if you work the ends more than the middle) and then use a wedge to tighten it in place. If you can heat it at all before working on deforming it it'll help prevent the pipe's weld from busting in the process.
 
dont kill me for it not being hollow-ground but i added a pipe clamp after you said that about hose clamps. I made it in an hour and a half so its not the best in the way of ergonomics but it cuts pretty good for an afternoon project http://imgur.com/gallery/X8PyJ yes, my blade is at an angle
 
Thats not bad for a quick cobble up !

Another strong (but not so elegant) option for clamping is U-bolt type muffler pipe clamps.

Before long you will be making steam bent necks & nib risers !
 
You'll probably find that your grip is too upright and that about a 45° forward tilt is more comfortable. Not sure if that clamp with hold or not, but you'll want it as close to the end of the snath as you can get it. If your tang isn't angled you'll need to adjust it to get a proper lay, and with a straight snath like that you'll need a much steeper tang angle than on a conventional American pattern snath. In use the edge should be riding about a fingertip's thickness off the ground, but for bush work you can increase the lay to two fingertips' elevation. The primary bevel, though rough, looks far back enough but the secondary looks like it may be fairly thick. Edge angle even on a bush blade should be no more than about 10° per side. :)
 
yeah, the tang angle needs to be doubled if not tripled but it holds on great for what it is. And about the blade, i decided to go with an asymmetric scandi leaning more towards a chisel, but what i ended up with is an about 5' angle on the underside with a 15' on the top with a 25 secondary because at that point i'd been grinding for a while and im not very patiend, probably doesnt cut as well as it should but it fits my purpose, in this case a second handle is a MUST. Its akward and really would give me about a blister every 3 minutes.

oh and the upright handle popped off, need a longer screw next time
 
Some observations from a Swedish scyther on ground vs. peened blades that largely mirrors my own. Lie = scythe, egg = edge, orv = snath, and I think you can understand the rest without issue but if any of the untranslated words cause a stumbling block just ask and I probably have a reasonable idea of what they mean thanks to all the wading through Swedish scythe pages at this point. :p

From Google Translate (emphasis added):

As far as I know, there is currently no good answer to why Sweden has become the ground liens promised land. Sweden is certainly not alone in having a strong tying the grindstone, but hardly in any country is the tradition so dominant.

Neighboring Norway, this is also the sharpened scythe of dominance but the technology to cold-hammering or knocking out one egg has a larger spread in general. This technology has its own verb, tynsling, which I was taught by a knife craftsmen.

Now the interest knack scythes to grow in Sweden. Hopefully it will lead to the user of the sharpened scythe receive part of the inspiration that characterizes many of these new practitioners of the knocked lien. For there is in my experience a lot to learn from lieentusiaster around our world in terms of both equipment and technology. Lessons will be for the benefit of present and future users of the sharpened scythe.

When studying users of the sharpened scythe is evident that the greater extent than users of the knocked lien uses speed to master a given mowing situation.
Users of the sharpened scythe can often be seen with a shorter and rapper sweep of the scythe. This technology also fits in to the fact that we in Sweden have traditionally used the shorter orv. This does not apply to all places in our country, but with the factory-made red plåtorvet reinforced this pattern.

At one of my demonstrations, a woman came forward and explained that my equipment was too "heavy". Much thanks to this "lesson" she wants to convey, I have systematically tried to learn the peculiarities of the Swedish lietraditionen that led to the conclusions I am here trying to convey.

The short rapid blows could in some circumstances be only one league goal - the stony and very hilly notch hit - but as a general technique to manage the lien is more questionable. In particular, to speed costs more energy than it increases the removal rate. The solution to this problem is in my experience to become sharper at handling sharpness. That favor sharpness before speed.

There is further a feature where the Swedish lie different from the continental knocked lie. The Swedish sharpened scythe is straighter and straighter seen in the horizontal plane. It's all about the line liens egg is then placed on the ground. The blade tip is then as close to the ground as lieeggens beginning at the clamp. Liebladet is thus almost straight. Do you have any old liar of Swedish production, this is easy to state. Liefabrikanterna Hamre in Norway and Härmän in Finland is working to produce these straight liar.

The scythes produced for the Swedish market of lietillverkare as "Fux" from Austria, by contrast, gave those of them bought Ljungdahlsliarna a more continental design. It's about the warp which lien has been in the blade length direction, and allows liens tip pointing slightly upwards. There is an advantage of this curvature, looking liebladet not as light soil, that the tip does not stick easily to the ground. But a straight lie also has an advantage in that the line or the plane of the edge cutting line images during its movement through the crop is thinner which leads to leibladet cutting better, it feels like it is sharper.

But for this advantage really to fall out of the driver must lie to have a good control of liens "forgotten angle". It is the angle increases as the lien held against the ground and liens tip turned up while pliers end remains on the ground. Most liar need not adjust the angle. It is determined by the tangent direction transverse to coincide, in line with, liebladets length.
 
hey guys,

been absent a while

i just joined a "maker space" and they have an 8? inch Tormek

that seems like the holy grail for scythe people

i have some VERY old scythes, and not well maintained types, that also don't seem peenable...

so. i see this tormek...

there's also a foot powered 2.5 foot diameter stone - might need tweaking

aside from access fee, this is all volunteer, and i'd like to donate time...

tips?

i have 3-4 scythes i've recovered, but the edge geometry and profiles is my last step.

advice?
 
You can probably use it without issue. Just work the blade at a slant to the wheel so you don't run into clearance problems with the strop wheel.
 
You can probably use it without issue. Just work the blade at a slant to the wheel so you don't run into clearance problems with the strop wheel.

to establish a proper hollow, i assume it's the top of the blade edge as view while holding it in the normal manner by the snath?

i figure if i can get them all setup good, i can maintain them more easily, but i'll have access to that Tormek for a good while, so...

can't wait to get to it :D
 
American blades are ground on both sides. Due to the shape of the rib you can typically grind a deeper bevel on the upper face of the blade than the bottom, but regardless of the specific angle per side, the edge should reach an apex in the center of the web.
 
A new addition to the collection.

GrainCradlePatternsWatermarked.jpg
 
Here's a video that, starting at 3:13, shows scythe blades being manufactured by Offner (the other manufacturer in Austria, besides Schroeckenfux). It says there are 30 individual production steps, and their capacity is 120,000 blades per annum.

[video=youtube;GYxqIwh2-U0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYxqIwh2-U0[/video]
 
They're also the largest producer of agricultural forks in the world, if I'm remembering correctly. They produce private label for most of the big global brands that aren't sourcing forks from China, India, or Mexico. Forks are more challenging than other forged tools to manufacture even to "good 'nuff" standards, and so you'll find more "Made in Austria" stamps on forks than probably any other hand tool found in hardware stores.
 
I find tang-and-ferrule to be the strongest build for the least weight, but with the overall heavy weight of forks these days the weight savings tend to be negated by clumsy, heavy tines. I have a "Made In Austria" marked two-tine socket hay fork sold under the Angelo B. name in Italy that is almost certainly an Offner, and while it's not bad by modern fork standards it's far from even mediocre when compared to my trusty vintage 3-tine Union Fork & Hoe with a capped ferrule.
 
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