Who Would Be Interested In Doing A Collaboration Classic Hunter With Me??

If anyone slacked on the damascus pattern IT WAS ME. I had suggested to Nick that he determine the best pattern for this type knife and I suppose he thought it best to get a concensus. I sure can't fault that. I failed to follow up on it and it is my fault the pattern wasn't settled on.

I like Dan's idea about the mokume pattern. So Sean, if you and Steve agree, just relax until the damascus pattern is settled. I emailed Nick with ONLY my suggestion, a twist pattern. Just my thought and I am not the most qualified to insist on one pattern over the other. I hope Dave and Bruce will chime in on deciding the damascus pattern.

Dan's website as a 'look-up' reference is great: http://www.knivesby.com/collaboration.html Anything to cut down on confusion. This thread has turned into a long read and makes it alittle difficult for all us to keep up to date.

Dan, 'Sando' is correct.

RL
 
Dan K. (Pendentive), I agree 100% with what you said in your most recent post. When you receive the knife it will probably be after completion; coming to you from Bruce, I would suppose. At that time chances of anything changing will be very slim so you'll have all the facts at hand. You should also take some high quality shots of the knife and sheath while you then have it.

Thanks for chiming in big guy.

RL
 
I'm thinking tapped dowel pins ( for the bolsters too) would hold better in the tapered thin part also
Roger you want to full heat treat the blade and tang, I'm thinking
the holes should be drilled and reamed before this is done and before the tapering
it would be easier to keep a perpendicular hole. or I can spot anneal where the holes go
but it would be easier done first, this way the holes being hard will weir less.
what's you alls thoughts on it

also Roger if you get me the perticulars that we know to be so, I can post them on the site just feed me slow so I don't choke on all the info:)
I think the two doing the steel and Mokume
should do the two between themselves to match as close as they can
I'm fine with that what ever they come up with..:)
just my thoughts only here.
 
Okay Dan, that's good. It will mean that the blank goes to you first for the drilling and you send it to Dave for the taper and grind. Dave then sends it to Steve and Steve sends it to me for HT.

Sounds like a good plan to me. Right now we need to get the damacus pattern determined. Let's all say something about that so Nick can figure out what to make. I said a twist pattern for my feable vote. Dave and Bruce should step in on this.

RL
 
I say twist too. Did you hear that Nick? It would be cool if the mokume was twist also but a good high layer count ramdom mokume would suffice nicely. Comments?
 
I still vote for the simple mokume, but if we can get the patterns close that would be impressive. I'll let you guys make the decision.


Roger,

Don't you want to heat treat before I get my grubs on it? If Dave takes it to the normal 220 level and you harden, I can work the scale off from there. Unless you want to use turco. In which case I can do more finish work first. But hey, you send it, I'll do it. (As long as I have Bruce to make me look good ;) )

Steve
 
again I'm with Bruce but I will kneel to the majority :)
here-s run down as I see it so far.

yes I will need the blade here before the heat treat and the
tapering of the tang I e-mailed Bruce about this and he
agrees with me,
it will be much easier for me to do what I have to do,

Bruce and I think we should be careful how thin the tang gets
ground also...
and an after thought? we should (not) hollow the tang
like we/some do for epoxies to fill this void...

will this be the sequence of work?

Damascus made ( Nick )
Mokume made ( Sean )
both cleaned up ( ??? )
the design and blank profiling (Michael)
pre finish surface (??? )
Jade cutting work (John)
other jade work (Roger)
work on the handle holes, fit of the parts. (Dan G)
then blade grind (Dave)
then the tang tapering ( Dave )?
then to the heat treat (Roger)
back to regrind bevel and Tang (Dave)
blade finish prior to etching ( Steve)
profile the handle parts (Dan G or Roger?)
finish the handle parts (Dan G or Roger?)
then etch ( ?? )
then to the names etched in ( Bruce Bump )
then the sheath ( Jay )
then to dan K for Pictures and the certificate.(Dan K )
then pass around for signing:D

is this close to what's going to happen?
please edit it and add the names to each duty then I can post it on the site. it's going to be good:)
http://www.knivesby.com/collaboration.html
edited because I screwed Up names:( :D
 
By the way -- I'm out sick today, so I'll be away from my e-mail. For those of you that sent me an address for a mild-steel blank, please PM me and I'll try to get them sent out today.
 
Steve- Let me know if you need any help making that Mokume.;) Sorry, but I couldn't resist.

Anyway, I can deliver the mokume cleaned up. What I was planning on doing is providing it in 5/16 x 1.5 x ???? billets and let the handle guys cut it as needed. Is that OK?

As far as the pattern, I can try to do a multibar twist. I have never done one before, but It should only be another fusion operation, no big deal unless on of those melt downs happen.

To get the finished width we need by using a single twist, I would have to twist a 3/4 bar, and then draw it to final dims. The only problem with that is, the twist pattern will, in effect, untwist, and only a few stars (maybe none) would actually show in the finished mokume. At the rate I can twist a 3/4 inch damascus billet, I can get about one star per inch after it is drawn out to 1/4 inch in thickness.

With mokume, I can't twist it as tight as steel. It seems to shear alot sooner. But if I go with a multibar, or what I was thinking about, a 4 bar Persian/Turkish twist, I can use smaller bars to twist, twist them tighter, and retain more of the pattern. The only experimentaion part would be "rewelding" the four bars back together. I have not tried that with Mokume.

That should make one hell of a nice pattern. Maybe nice enough to "out show" Nick's damascus.;) ;) ;)

Seriously, I think it would compliment Nick's work. Waht do you all think?
 
Originally posted by Laredo7mm
Steve- Let me know if you need any help making that Mokume.;) Sorry, but I couldn't resist.

Anyway, I can deliver the mokume cleaned up. What I was planning on doing is providing it in 5/16 x 1.5 x ???? billets and let the handle guys cut it as needed. Is that OK?
Click to expand...

OK OK I fixed it Sean :) your dealing with a mind that not all mine
anylonger :D :D

yes 5/16" x 1.5" x 6" should be good
 
Yeah, pretty basically the way it goes.

The steel goes from Nick to Michael for profiling the blank.

From Michael to Dan G. for drilling all tang holes except thong hole.

From Dan G. to Dave for tang taper and full-V grind.

From Dave to RL for HT, including deep cryo.

That's what we have on our plate right now. If the steel needs cleaned up we'll get that done by one of us. We'll hear about any need for that from Nick I'm sure.

I'll email Nick and tell him we decided on it being a twist.

Thanks (again). RL
 
BIG JADE UPDATE:

John has been having computer problems and his recent work schedule has made it difficalt to call me on the phone. I just received from him that he agrees with Dan and Bruce we should use Sean's green/black jade. I have emailed Sean asking him to send it to John.

Poor ol'John searched all over, by phone and by highway, for the elusive cobalt blue.

RL
 
Head turner is right! I just want to say how proud I am to be associated in this project with so many fine knife makers. Roger you deserve a lot of credit for taking the risk to ask in the first place, and for keeping it all organized (no small miracle, either). I find I'm just chomping at the bit to get to my part in this! I sure can't wait to see the finished product... Zowie!

:D :eek: :D

Dave
 
Dave, I am very pleased you are doing the taper, grind and filing. Our team is a very good collection of makers, any one of which could make such a knife entirely on his own. Having Bruce on the team is maximum. All of It just worked out that way within the first few days. Nick's steel is wonderful for this knife and Sean's mokume helps make this a truely in-house made knife. Everything from steel to sheath and certificate of origin is part of the team and all other materials are purely natural, save epoxies and screws.

RL
 
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