Why are gtinding jigs frowned upon?

I have seen that rest. I like mine on my grinder, has a double jointed arm and a sold table that's perfectly square to the belt but I can ease or lower and tilt it with an Allen wrench. For what I use it for its perfect.
 
JTknives said:
The "pricing thing" is one of the hardest things a knife maker can do. I have a simple formula I use because I know what my time is worth. Me personally would rather give a knife away then cheepen it over and over by dropping the price down over and over. Surprisingly I do give alot of knives away but not because thy won't or don't sell but because I enjoy it.

What it comes down to is quality. If your a new maker or old dog price your work in accordance to the quality you provide. Take pride in your work and know your skills and time has value.

Ok enough of that lol.
So onto the "Jig" topic - man oh man why did I have to start thinking about jigs. My mind has been going non stop with designs and fixtures all morning. It started as a what if you could have a fixture/setup that alowed stright grinding and then still holding the angle let you sweep the grind to the tip. All kinds of things have flown through my mind from cams to tracks as well as tracing plates. But to complacated I thought, I just need robot arms. Hum not bad pricy but not bad. Ok to crazy let's make it more simple. Robot arms I control manually, ok that could work. Need to be simple to build and infinitely adjustable. Then it hit me, could it work I wondered. There I am holding an imaginary blade watching its movements in my minds eye as I grind. Yes I thought it could work. So now onto the drawing board to remove this festering splinter from my mind. Thanks guys for causing me to do this
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You and I are peas in a pod.

I almost started modeling up a "robot arm" minus the servos. Essentially parallel arms and double joints to keep things square, with selectable radius rotating joints for the sweep, stops, etc.

I quit when I came to the realization that if I had a double grinder with opposing belts it would even be better because I scope creep like no one's business.
 
The the same direction I'm thinking. 2 parallel arms, one clamps to the tang and the other has a magnet and a rest for the spine to sit on. Both of these little hands so to speak would be able to rotate in the arms. The arms would extend down and be atatched to sections of pipe. Each arm wouldwouldhave a section of pipe welded to it so it looks like an upside down T with the cross of the t being the pipe and the arm is the verticle line. Then the would be a round bar that extended past the edge of the belt by a good amount and was a diamater that would alow the pipe on the bottom of the arms to slide over it. This bar would be lower then the platten. The arms stick up from this bar and can move left and right and front to back. Atatch the clamp hands to the blade and set the hands into the sockets at the top of the arms.

What we have now is a blade fixed in place that can be slid left and right as well as in and out. By placing the magnetic hand with the shelf on spine where the blade sweeps up we have full control without having to many controls. You will push each arm in which pushes the blade agenst the belt and as you start to grind you can push more on the tang arm which will slightly angle the blade to the belt. This will alow you to draw the blade across the belt and not have the leading edge of the belt catch on its own cut. Once you pass the second hand you push the spine arm and pull the tang arm which sweeps the tip into the belt. When the blade is hot you pull the arms back and remove the blade and hands and quench in water. Then pop it back into the arms. Once your ready flip to the other side you life the blade and hands out of the arms and flip it around and put the tang hand in the other arm. Then flip the magnetic hand over to the other side and presto ready to go.

Wow I can believe I wrote all that out. But I am sitting here at the doctors waiting for my wife.

There is a few other ways this could be done to make it maybe simpler. Maybe using something like the rods that has the ball bearing socket with a hole in it. Use these as the arms then if thy where long enough thy would just lean left and right and not have to slide.
 
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How about a bastardized a small mill removing the head and make a belt grinding head where the belt ran front to back say 90* what a typical surface grinding wheel runs with xyz motorized feeds and and a motorized horizontal rotory table the blade mounts to. Now you have a programmable 4 axis belt grinder. Change out to a platen or any size wheel for hollow grinds and be done with it. Now arms or fancy engineering. Add in a coolant spray system. Done...
 
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