Why is flicking damaging to the Reeve knives

PURPLEDC said:
In my experience stop pin deformation isnt really an issue. What I have seen be an issue is the holes in which the stop pin sits. Those usually being made of a much softer material than the actual stop pin deform and allow some play so that the stop pin no longer makes positive contact. This is rare though and usually in cheaper knives that are poorly designed. Lockbar deformation is much more common. For a fair amount of proof of why this isnt a major issue one only needs to look at a modern day balisong knife. These knives have usually one or more stop pin either affixed to the blade or one in each handle. The ones in the handle being smaller and fixed into (Usually) softer materials. These knives undergo tremendous amounts of stress and impact yet manage to last many many years without deformation and failure. the ONLY times I have ever heard of a pin in a balisong needing to be replaced it was due to it coming unscrewed and falling out. The majority of these pins are the same size if not smaller than your average stop pin.




yeah my mayhem for sure has it. I could have swore at least the earlier alias knives had them too. Seems odd that they went after CRK with the design of those knives yet never crowned the spine. Maybe they were trying to tread lightly as to avoid a lawsuit.
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I know a few people and times where the stop pin needed to be replaced in a balisong because they got too smushed (deformed) and the handles started to get closer than they should causing weird lock up issues (with the latch, still fine if you just hold the handles together). I've had a few second hand 42s that had this issue. They do usually fall out first though... Not sure if this is due to stress from flipping or pressure from latching the knife during lock up. Either way, it's happened before.

If it is due to pressure from the latch squeezing it from the lock up or stress from the handles constantly banging against it, it's kind of similar to banging the knife reply hard against the stop pin when you wrist flick... But I'm no expert on materials and how they wear, and this really only happens to serious users/flippers after extensive use.

The tang pin is only used to push the handles apart enough to give tension to the latch lock and make sure the handles don't move more than 180 degrees, so it's hard to compare anything because they can wear quite a bit before they show any adverse effects, whereas a high precision sebenza may only need a smidgen of material missing or dented for the lock up to change.

I think they added a rounded spine on the mayhem because it's nice to have when flipping, especially for a balisong with unorthodox handles, but skipped it on the alias because that's more of a nice touch than functionality. Plus cutting corners saves $$$.
 
It appears that the bottom line people should take from this thread is to avoid deploying your knives too hard when you don't need to. I'm sure there may be situations where the faster you open a knife, the better. But in typical daily use, it isn't necessary and should be avoided on all folders to help ensure a longer more fruitful life from your knife. Can we all just agree there?

If you're afraid of the CRK warranty or you don't think it's worth your money then don't buy their products. It clearly doesn't work for you and you should spend your money where you think the best value lies. It's really just that simple.
 
skyhorse said:
Mr. Reeve has explained this question to the point of NAUSEOUSNESS !
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Can you show me the thread where this has been addressed? Last time he was suppose to explain this, he left everyone hanging with a youtube video and no explanation...
 
au5t3n5 said:
I know a few people and times where the stop pin needed to be replaced in a balisong because they got too smushed (deformed) and the handles started to get closer than they should causing weird lock up issues (with the latch, still fine if you just hold the handles together). I've had a few second hand 42s that had this issue. They do usually fall out first though... Not sure if this is due to stress from flipping or pressure from latching the knife during lock up. Either way, it's happened before.

If it is due to pressure from the latch squeezing it from the lock up or stress from the handles constantly banging against it, it's kind of similar to banging the knife reply hard against the stop pin when you wrist flick... But I'm no expert on materials and how they wear, and this really only happens to serious users/flippers after extensive use.

The tang pin is only used to push the handles apart enough to give tension to the latch lock and make sure the handles don't move more than 180 degrees, so it's hard to compare anything because they can wear quite a bit before they show any adverse effects, whereas a high precision sebenza may only need a smidgen of material missing or dented for the lock up to change.

I think they added a rounded spine on the mayhem because it's nice to have when flipping, especially for a balisong with unorthodox handles, but skipped it on the alias because that's more of a nice touch than functionality. Plus cutting corners saves $$$.
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I havent seen this with a 42. I have seen it on old 259 type knives. But it wasnt actually the pin but rather the cups on the handles because they were made of zamak which is incredibly soft. The times I have seen pin issues with 42's has only been when they fall out and are put back in wrong. Many people dont notice it but many 42 stop pins are not completely round and are ground down so that the handles properly close. if put in the wrong way they can have too much or too little play in the handles. Im not saying it never happens. I just dont think its a huge concern in most applications and i think other issues would present themselves first.
 
mmarkh said:
You say there are no CRK bashers then commence the bashing?:confused::rolleyes:
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I wouldn't exactly call that bashing. He's actually praising the knives in a lot of ways, and he's not saying they aren't well made, nor that they aren't up to the tasks of EDC and work. He's just saying they aren't built just to be hard work simple tools with close tolerances. Personally I like the look of them, I just do not see the value of carrying one as my EDC based on the work that I use a knife for. I don't beat my knives up, but in some cases there are bits of frantic work or tough cutting, and while I can afford a CRK with no big issue, it just doesn't fit into my personal mindset on the value of a knife based on diminishing returns in performance.

Now, if the cutting ability excelled in performance over other knives, while the blade itself is beastly and nigh unbreakable, that would probably sell me. But that is not the main selling point for CRK. That is more along the lines of ZT, Strider, Grayman etc.

Hopefully I'm not rambling here. On some meds for an appendectomy. :/
 
Appendectomy does not sound like fun.

(We had a biology teacher here who used a Sebenza in class to demonstrate dissection. I hope your surgeon had a real scalpel!)
 
Appendectomy does not sound like fun.

(We had a biology teacher here who used a Sebenza in class to demonstrate dissection. I hope your surgeon had a real scalpel!)
 
Esav Benyamin said:
Appendectomy does not sound like fun.

(We had a biology teacher here who used a Sebenza in class to demonstrate dissection. I hope your surgeon had a real scalpel!)
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If he knew how to sharpen it might have been a cleaner cut haha. Fortunately they went with laparoscopy so I just look like I had a UFO probing my stomach.

I hear they're backtracking to using obsidian scalpels for the finer edge. How long til we see knives (kitchen at least) following suit?
 
Ceramics are big in kitchen knives. That's like updated flint.
On the other hand, I have a Mission MBK for light kitchen duty. Easy to clean. :)
 
Seems like titanium would be a pain to sharpen, but I've heard nothing but good about Mission.

I'd find that dissection interesting to witness. Never seen anyone use a pocket knife, much less a mid-tech in quite that way just "on the spot". Must have shocked some folks.
 
It decelerates the lifetime of the Titanium frame-lock.

I don't mind mentioning it since I did that on my DPx HEST/F T3 folder (the expensive one) since I got so mad at the sticky lock so I went through cycles of sharpie plus harsh open/close cycles! Not worried. I'm at 50% lock up but it has held steady!
 
RemyKaze said:
If he knew how to sharpen it might have been a cleaner cut haha. Fortunately they went with laparoscopy so I just look like I had a UFO probing my stomach.

I hear they're backtracking to using obsidian scalpels for the finer edge. How long til we see knives (kitchen at least) following suit?
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AG Russell used to sell obsidian blades - maybe still does. :)
 
Everything with moving parts/friction has a limited lifespan. Moving them more often shortens the time of that lifespan. Slamming parts together vs. sliding them into place will also accelerate wear.
A knife is, first and foremost, a tool. (Even though for many enthusiasts & collectors it is much more.) IMO, there are no two ways about it... Obsessively opening and closing any knife is ab-use in every sense of the word & more so if done with force. Some manufacturers do not recognize the word "abuse" in this dynamic. Other than my Shirogorov, I've never handled a folder that comes close to the build quality & tolerances of a CRK. CRK strives for perfection when making a knife and I would assume that if them deem a used folder less than perfect they would do whatever it takes to make it so.
As far as lockbar wear/deformation, every single Ti lockbar knife I've owned has worn faster than any CRK I've owned. If you really wanna get minutely technical (& obviously CRK does) when a lockbar wears away -at all- that angle is set, "properly" mating the lock faces via the triangulation of the pivot, the blade stop & the lockbar/blade tang. Simply "moving" one of the points of the triangle to change the placement of lockbar engagement, like putting in a thicker stop pin, is a quick fix and will make the knife appear to function as new and it may very well actually function as new. But there may be "risks." There may be a less than desirable amount of lock face now contacting the blade tang. It may now contact the blade tang in a less than desirable place. There may be too much contact, resulting in "walk," where the wedge shape of the tang possibly causes the lockbar to literally "walk" off of the tang under pressure.
A company like Strider Knives would, as it seems, simply make the knife function because that is their deal. They make knives that have excellent function & even say blatantly in black and white that the knives are not intended to be perfect. I suspect that Chris & Co. are a little more picky and are likely unwilling to knowingly let a knife leave their shop in less than optimal condition. They are more likely to deem a knife to need a complete rebuild than other manufacturers. It may not be "necessary," but neither is buying a Sebenza in the first place!
Personally I love the Seb's overall design. The perfect build is very nice but I would still like it just as much if it were made exactly the same but with the "acceptable" tolerances of any other USA made knife.
 
I have 2 Sebenza 21s and a 25. I tend to finger-flick mine open, they are pretty easy to open quickly without beating everything up. I don't worry about it. They will NOT "wrist-flick," none of the three. A great ball-decent system he uses will prevent that from happening. A friend immediately tried it on my 25, and it did not move a millimeter.

The 25 opens easier with a finger-flick than my 21s do.

If you want to wrist-flick away, get an Emerson. I have a CQC8 that I've wrist flicked a couple of hundred times (I guess I'm a cretin!) and it has not hurt it a bit. I'll tell you what though, if needed to open it quickly in an emergency, wrist-flicking is something I'm glad I know.

But I personally don't do it to my CRK knives, why do so. My Benchmade Contego will do it without fail, but I don't do it all the time either. That is how I generally open it, but with the Axis-lock pin pulled back to make it a soft, easy opening. Why beat it when you don't have to?
 
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