Why is there sometimes snobbery against Cold Steel knives? They are great!

[razorsdescent]

They might be better for wha exactly? All this talk about locks, what about the other 80% of the knife?

Amen.

What are you guys doing with these knives????

 

[vwb563]

Amen.

What are you guys doing with these knives????

We are gonna use them and use them hard! Why? Because they will take it! I won't have a knife that I have to "baby." If I want something to look at and relish I will buy an ornament. When I buy a knife I want one that will hold up for a long time and can take on some real world tasks. I don't buy one to only slice butter and spread jelly.

 

[Beyond You]

I dont feel the need to bad mouth them, but ill never own one, and im ok with that, never have recommended them to people and never will.

 

[Chipped Karambit]

wouldn't trust a heavy duty $100+++ frame-lock folder in the rain or snow.

........what did I just read

 

[allyourblood]

There is mostly huge leaning towards all locks being good enough on forums because there is a large percent who don't use them heavily outside of the house or here and there for tasks that even a tiny Vic Classic keychain knife is plenty for.

And that large percentage represents most folding knife users. Meaning, most people don't have much need for an ultra-strong lock, or any lock, for that matter, as you said yourself (the Classic being a slipjoint). That being the case, one has to wonder why Cold Steel puts such an emphasis on something that we can all agree isn't going to benefit the majority of the folding knife-carrying community.

Only, you don't really have to wonder.

 

[Chris "Anagarika"]

Since S30V at 55HRC sucks, anyone has experience of CS' AUS8 vs Spyderco 8Cr13MoV? Similar steel and as tested by Stefanwolf, Resilience is at 60HRC.

Just to stay within widening topic range ...

I only have 8Cr by SRM & Enlan, so if I get CS, will it be considered step up? Or better get a Resilience?
Looking for >4" blade ...

 

[Chris Pierce]

I hate the fact that a brilliant concept like the Hold Out III was ruind through an asinine combination of an Axis lock and a pocketclip so incredibly overbuilt to the point of nonfunctionality -- seriously, it is so tight it could hold tiles in place on the space shuttle. Nearly impossible to clip the knife to your pocket, and if you can manage to do it, it's stuck there until you can pry it off. Everyone who buys one of these things ends up either needing to bend the clip with pliers or remove it to sand the G-10 underneath smooth. Lynn is well aware of the problem, but apparently it will cost too much to reconfigure the pocketclip.

I can't say that I agree with anything written here. I've not had to bend my pocket clips or sand the g10. I also have no problem closing any tri-ad lock knives that I have owned with one hand. Have you actually owned or used any tri-ad lock cold steel knives?

 

[OrdnanceBubbaUSMC]

And that large percentage represents most folding knife users. Meaning, most people don't have much need for an ultra-strong lock, or any lock, for that matter, as you said yourself (the Classic being a slipjoint). That being the case, one has to wonder why Cold Steel puts such an emphasis on something that we can all agree isn't going to benefit the majority of the folding knife-carrying community.

Only, you don't really have to wonder.

I think it makes sense in a few ways, one like Demko mentioned on a video how basically any lock you would want the best, strongest, etc. If you can get the most secure, strongest door lock for your house for about the same price or less than the others than you will probably get it. And that the Tri-Ad's greatest features are durability and toughness more so than strength. It makes a lot of sense especially if your folder is a back up to a fixed blade or necessary stand in for one and not just an around the town EDC.

Is having more edge retention more necessary and worth extra costs? Even old Spyderco AUS 8 folders worked fine and lasted enough for a two week training exercise without touch-up. How is it not good enough for office and keyboard commandos 15-20 yrs later? Anything better than Victorinox steel is good enough for me, and even that is good enough for thousands of people around the world for generations.

If anything the strength and robustness is more likely to be important when you really need it to be but I definitely understand the good enough for me has to be good enough for you attitude and how most of the knife forums is about conceptualizing and fondling knives more than experience and using the crap out of knives. Like talking about taste of grapes with people who never seen one but are an expert anyways.

 

[tyr_shadowblade]

I can't say that I agree with anything written here. I've not had to bend my pocket clips or sand the g10. I also have no problem closing any tri-ad lock knives that I have owned with one hand. Have you actually owned or used any tri-ad lock cold steel knives?

Please purchase a Hold Out III and report back. I love this knife, but hate the lock mechanism and am infuriated by the pocket clip.

 

[tyr_shadowblade]

Do you mean to say triad lock here? If so, I haven't had any problems with mine. Also I never clip my 3" knives to the pocket, I always remove the clip and carry them IN the pocket, so that gives me no problems

You are correct, sir. Post edited. Removing clip is a great idea . . . but I wanted a functional pocketclip. :grumpy:

 

[allyourblood]

I think it makes sense in a few ways, one like Demko mentioned on a video how basically any lock you would want the best, strongest, etc. If you can get the most secure, strongest door lock for your house for about the same price or less than the others than you will probably get it.

I don't think this analogy applies very well to knives. The purpose of a door's lock is to prevent unwanted individuals from gaining access inside. So yes, I want one that performs well at its primary purpose. Do I own the world's most secure locks? Nope. I don't need that level of security. I can put seven locks on my door and increase my odds of keeping it from opening without authorization, but that far exceeds what I expect from my house's security.

Now, a folding knife's primary purpose, on the other hand, is to cut. It must cut well. As that is its primary function, that is where I will demand top performance. So then one might begin to determine the aspects of a knife that pertain to excellent cutting performance. Soon, if you use your knives often enough, you're likely looking at edge retention and wear resistance, among several other factors to decide what's best. Of course you'll arrive at the blade's steel.

Is having more edge retention more necessary and worth extra costs? Even old Spyderco AUS 8 folders worked fine and lasted enough for a two week training exercise without touch-up. How is it not good enough for office and keyboard commandos 15-20 yrs later? Anything better than Victorinox steel is good enough for me, and even that is good enough for thousands of people around the world for generations.

I'll go you one better: I carried a SS Endura with AUS6 steel for years and it worked great. It cut well and took a very keen edge. My enthusiasm for the steel ends there, however. Your argument about steel and how we don't need anything better is amusing, because you don't seem to apply your own logic to the concept of a folding knife's lock. Millions upon millions of people around the world for generations have used folding knives with no lock at all, and that has been good enough. How is it not good enough for office and keyboard commandos 15-20 yrs later?

If anything the strength and robustness is more likely to be important when you really need it to be but I definitely understand the good enough for me has to be good enough for you attitude and how most of the knife forums is about conceptualizing and fondling knives more than experience and using the crap out of knives. Like talking about taste of grapes with people who never seen one but are an expert anyways.

There are very few experts on these forums, if any, and one man's experience is worth exactly that: one man's experience. What we have here, in BFC and similar forums, is a vast sea of experiences coming from beginners, early learners, fakers and braggards, to long-time users, genuinely war-torn and weathered old timers, and deeply knowledgeable folks. This sea of experiences, when taken as a whole, constitutes genuinely valuable information. I'm not sure who you're referring to in your grape-tasting analogy, but it doesn't apply much here. Folks know the type of lock they need and the steel they like; there's no proving or disproving their opinions.

Obviously, lock strength is important to you, while edge retention and wear resistance take a back seat. Just because other folks' priorities differ diametrically to your own doesn't make them wrong.

 

[Chipped Karambit]

I don't think this analogy applies very well to knives. The purpose of a door's lock is to prevent unwanted individuals from gaining access inside. So yes, I want one that performs well at its primary purpose. Do I own the world's most secure locks? Nope. I don't need that level of security. I can put seven locks on my door and increase my odds of keeping it from opening without authorization, but that far exceeds what I expect from my house's security.

Now, a folding knife's primary purpose, on the other hand, is to cut. It must cut well. As that is its primary function, that is where I will demand top performance. So then one might begin to determine the aspects of a knife that pertain to excellent cutting performance. Soon, if you use your knives often enough, you're likely looking at edge retention and wear resistance, among several other factors to decide what's best. Of course you'll arrive at the blade's steel.



I'll go you one better: I carried a SS Endura with AUS6 steel for years and it worked great. It cut well and took a very keen edge. My enthusiasm for the steel ends there, however. Your argument about steel and how we don't need anything better is amusing, because you don't seem to apply your own logic to the concept of a folding knife's lock. Millions upon millions of people around the world for generations have used folding knives with no lock at all, and that has been good enough. How is it not good enough for office and keyboard commandos 15-20 yrs later?



There are very few experts on these forums, if any, and one man's experience is worth exactly that: one man's experience. What we have here, in BFC and similar forums, is a vast sea of experiences coming from beginners, early learners, fakers and braggards, to long-time users, genuinely war-torn and weathered old timers, and deeply knowledgeable folks. This sea of experiences, when taken as a whole, constitutes genuinely valuable information. I'm not sure who you're referring to in your grape-tasting analogy, but it doesn't apply much here. Folks know the type of lock they need and the steel they like; there's no proving or disproving their opinions.

Obviously, lock strength is important to you, while edge retention and wear resistance take a back seat. Just because other folks' priorities differ diametrically to your own doesn't make them wrong.

+ 3.
points I would like to add:
But I would like to add I have to sharpen aus8 everyday when I used a vallatton diskin folder so ya.......office commandos wouldn't be a proper name I use m390 and s35vn for strenght edge retention and far greater rust resistance. Since aus8 fails against these in all aspects, my "fondling" a cs would set me back incredibly far that I would be better of using 8cr13mov. There is a reason the military is issued knives that aren't cold steels.

My grandfather used to use Case knives when he worked by the water. They seem to hold up well and he never had one close on him. Considering the amount of force you use day to day pushing the blade theoretically back instead of forward, I don't believe you need that waste of effort. Only time I have had a lock fail on me was battoning, How many people batton?

But apparently I am no expert on the matter/= despite the fact I use the toughness, corrosion resistance(2 blocks from the sea is where I live) and wear resistance everyday.
People who like lock strength and not an optimum edge should just use a bar to hammer the crap out of stuff instead in my friends eye (who once had a good benchmade but it was dull so he picked up a pipe and used it to bash)

To demko; lock like a door huh? I want my edge to be like a Lamborghini. Does that mean my doors have to slide up at an angle? Doors to locks means nothing. Keep something out from getting it? I prefer when my handle is like a hot woman, in my hands in that case lol

 

[marc4fishing]

I have an old (early 90's cold steel tanto that is a total user...great edge retention and just won't quit.

 

[lava_lamp]

I have owned three Cold Steel knives. The Ti-lite is the only factory fresh knife I have ever had to return. The lock was bad. I also owned a Nightshade, which was garbage and a Voyager, which was average to above average. Considering its materials and cost relative to competitors, it was below average.

I did handle a Spartan on a pasaround. It is different, sturdy, and a good value.

 

[res1cue]

+ 3.
points I would like to add:
But I would like to add I have to sharpen aus8 everyday when I used a vallatton diskin folder so ya.......office commandos wouldn't be a proper name I use m390 and s35vn for strenght edge retention and far greater rust resistance. Since aus8 fails against these in all aspects, my "fondling" a cs would set me back incredibly far that I would be better of using 8cr13mov. There is a reason the military is issued knives that aren't cold steels.

Some AUS8 is more equal than others

I hated AUS8 until I tried their CS. Their HT is really noticeably better. Like I said in another thread, don't knock it till you tried it

 

[Chris Pierce]

Please purchase a Hold Out III and report back. I love this knife, but hate the lock mechanism and am infuriated by the pocket clip.

Will do.

I've owned both the Mini AK47 and Mink Lawman and not have any problems with them. I've also owned the Hold Out II, and had no problems. I'll let you know when I think when I get it.

 

[allyourblood]

Some AUS8 is more equal than others

I hated AUS8 until I tried their CS. Their HT is really noticeably better. Like I said in another thread, don't knock it till you tried it

I like AUS8 (I've owned several brands with it over the years, including CS). I like 8CR13MOV as well. They're both great steels and they sharpen fast, but they still rank pretty low when it comes to my personal preferences. From what I can tell, AUS8 has certain limitations inherent to the steel, regardless of heat treat; at some point, it "maxes out" in a variety of aspects, just like any other steel. Those limitations prevent it from ranking amongst the top steels and I don't see any way around that. But it definitely doesn't mean AUS8 is bad, by any stretch.

 

[Chris Pierce]

AUS8 is far from being the "best" steel out there. But it is functional blade steel, easy to sharpen and takes a good edge. It also won't chip like a lot of "super" steels will.

 

[res1cue]

AUS8 is far from being the "best" steel out there. But it is functional blade steel, easy to sharpen and takes a good edge. It also won't chip like a lot of "super" steels will.

I like AUS8 (I've owned several brands with it over the years, including CS). I like 8CR13MOV as well. They're both great steels and they sharpen fast, but they still rank pretty low when it comes to my personal preferences. From what I can tell, AUS8 has certain limitations inherent to the steel, regardless of heat treat; at some point, it "maxes out" in a variety of aspects, just like any other steel. Those limitations prevent it from ranking amongst the top steels and I don't see any way around that. But it definitely doesn't mean AUS8 is bad, by any stretch.

Both of you are correct, but I guess depends on your individual needs.

A few weeks back I was carving out a new bow. I would spend about 2-3 hrs a day removing wood with my Recon 1, which I chose because it was the most comfortable on my hand. I would start out the day with hair-whittling and TP pushcutting edge

At the end of the day, it could barely scrape hair, but it was still definitely "functionally sharp". 5 minutes on the sharpmaker, and I am back to where I started.

Had back bevel on 30, microbevel on 40. This was pretty hard on the knife, and it still held up great. I don't require more than that because I can spare 5 minutes at the end of the day.

The idea that I would need to use it long enough to let it go totally dull and then have an emergency where I needed it to be sharp is pure fantasy. Even if I was lost in the woods, I carry pocket stones, and I can touch it up easily. In fact, I prefer to have an AUS8 knife plus a pocket stone than to have CMP-*insert super steel* with no stone

 

[upnorth]

My thumb after operating the backlock on my medium voyager :grumpy:

They break in and you need about half the force later on.