Wicked edge headed my way! Along with my small seb 21

Ernie1980 said:
Very careful! I started with an expensive knife because I thought after watching the videos I was an expert....... You will learn it well though and then love it!
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I have a couple of Winchester knives that will play a great role in breaking in the wicked edge along with an assortment or knives, I wonder if I got some scrap steel from work that I can have milled down to knife thickness if I can practice on those???!
 
Richard1234 said:
Great purchase! I just got my wicked edge today and I have a small wilson combat starbenza coming tomorrow:)
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I'm planning on buying a Wilson combat starbenza and send it of to get it anodized blue valleys and the bronze tops I saw someone who did that and it looked amazing!! How are you liking your WE so far?
 
I love it! I only practiced on an old schrade I had laying around and it already has an amazing edge on it and all I did was go up to 600 grit amazing system and MUCH faster than my sharpmaker
 
Richard1234 said:
I love it! I only practiced on an old schrade I had laying around and it already has an amazing edge on it and all I did was go up to 600 grit amazing system and MUCH faster than my sharpmaker
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Hopefully I have mine by Friday, or Saturday if the mail lady likes me!
 
d.r.h. said:
As a WE user for the past two years, biggest bits of advice I can give you are 1) practice on some cheap knives with various blade shapes. This will not only serve to give you practice, but also do a critical breaking in of the diamond plates. 2) If one of your goals is to have even edge bevels .... get yourself an angle cube. While the angle markings on the markings on the base rod are generally helpful, they are rarely accurate. This is due to the way the knife is clamped (with one stationary jaw and one moving jaw in the vise) and the geometry of the blade spines of various knives. Obviously, you can obtain a perfectly apexed and sharp edge regardless the angle of each paddle .... but the thing I obsess over the most is obtaining an even edge on each side of the knife. You really need to check (and adjust accordingly) your angle with each plate, ceramic, and strop). For this, you really need an angle cube.
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I have had mine for about a year and a half and this is great advice. The angle cube is really a must even before new arms. I still have the old arm and they work fine.
 
Great advice here. I did at least 10 kitchen knives before I tackled a fine knife. The stones really do need to be broken in or you will get residual scratches that are really hard to polish out. The WE forum has a great video on sharpening a Sebenza that preserves the semi convex edge Chris uses, it is worth looking at. I love my WE system, I wasted so much money on other systems and stones I could have bought two WE systems. You will love it, with some practice and listening to the advice on the forum.

T
 
My biggest problem was always avoiding a wider bevel on the tip (even moving the blade backwards down the vise). Takes a while to dial down the details. It is also easy to overdo it and then you end up eating the belly of the blade ... gotta be careful.

So anyway, what's a thread like this with no pictures ... here are some of my results ... I usually do a 24 degree bevel and I convex it to 20 or 19 with one degree intervals. The last two (20 and 19) I mostly use 1000 grit and higher to polish any imperfections from the coarser stones.

Let me repeat ... I destroyed a cheap knife or two before I got these kinds of results, so do be cautious! Oh ... and I almost sliced a thumb off once (it basically took the place of a stone and ran the entire edge ... nasty). ALWAYS focus on what you are doing and be safe! It wasn't fun.

Mnandi-10_zpsd0e156bf.jpg


Mnandi-11_zps5aedc536.jpg


60dfaa2c-8ec6-42c7-8681-c7214477fb9a_zps9e49b480.jpg


fc1c9a54-af1a-4fea-8641-f57f312e020f_zps613c0e5c.jpg


VECP-6Copy_zps21d9675f.jpg


VECP-5Copy_zps80174ffb.jpg


And a couple crazy blades I got the balls to polish! (just a polish, no metal removed whatsoever).

x3_zps186f55be.jpg


x-14_zps146fa965.jpg
 
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I don't have a WE but do have an Edge Pro. For a small 21 I'd think it's much easier to sharpen on a WE since you can clamp it. On a EP the lug gives you fits as you can't get an exact hold on either side. A part of me almost thinks Sebenzas look better without a mirror edge. I like my mirror edges, but to me a medium grit non polished edge looks better than a half done mirrored edge with a lot of scratches left behind that really stand out.

My advice would be to invest in an angle cube and some cheap kitchen knives from Walmart to practice on.
 
uofaengr said:
I like my mirror edges, but to me a medium grit non polished edge looks better than a half done mirrored edge with a lot of scratches left behind that really stand out.
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This is very true. A scratched mirror looks bad and sloppy. If you are going for it, you have to committ and that takes time. I've spent 4+ hours on some ... And provoked more than one anger fit on my wife ....

The key (in my experience) is on the 800 and 1000 grits (I use a circular motion from heel to tip and back, without applying pressure and for a long while, one side at the time).
 
masterserg said:
This is very true. A scratched mirror looks bad and sloppy. If you are going for it, you have to committ and that takes time. I've spent 4+ hours on some ... And provoked more than one anger fit on my wife ....

The key (in my experience) is on the 800 and 1000 grits (I use a circular motion from heel to tip and back, without applying pressure and for a long while, one side at the time).
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I'm not the hugest fan of the convex edges that comes on Sebenzas, but I do like the mostly consistent bevel with a semi polish they put on from heel to tip whereas if I'm sharpening, that bevel is going to widen a decent bit as it approaches the tip. In some ways, widens more than I like since I don't like a huge secondary bevel, but I don't know if this issue is less prevalent using a WE. The polish CRK puts on reminds me of the same polish I used to get using a sharpmaker through the ultra fine rods and then a Knivesplus strop. I was once (and somewhat still am) big time into mirror edges, but somehow the factory polish and bevel width suits my fancy a little more on the Sebenza. However my tastes have been known to change.
 
masterserg said:
My biggest problem was always avoiding a wider bevel on the tip (even moving the blade backwards down the vise). Takes a while to dial down the details. It is also easy to overdo it and then you end up eating the belly of the blade ... gotta be careful.

So anyway, what's a thread like this with no pictures ... here are some of my results ... I usually do a 24 degree bevel and I convex it to 20 or 19 with one degree intervals. The last two (20 and 19) I mostly use 1000 grit and higher to polish any imperfections from the coarser stones.

Let me repeat ... I destroyed a cheap knife or two before I got these kinds of results, so do be cautious! Oh ... and I almost sliced a thumb off once (it basically took the place of a stone and ran the entire edge ... nasty). ALWAYS focus on what you are doing and be safe! It wasn't fun.

Mnandi-10_zpsd0e156bf.jpg


Mnandi-11_zps5aedc536.jpg


60dfaa2c-8ec6-42c7-8681-c7214477fb9a_zps9e49b480.jpg


fc1c9a54-af1a-4fea-8641-f57f312e020f_zps613c0e5c.jpg


VECP-6Copy_zps21d9675f.jpg


VECP-5Copy_zps80174ffb.jpg


And a couple crazy blades I got the balls to polish! (just a polish, no metal removed whatsoever).

x3_zps186f55be.jpg


x-14_zps146fa965.jpg
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Those are some beautiful blades and edges! Thanks for the motivation
 
Spot on advice! Practice practice practice... I turned an Insingo into a toothpick one time. :(


masterserg said:
My biggest problem was always avoiding a wider bevel on the tip (even moving the blade backwards down the vise). Takes a while to dial down the details. It is also easy to overdo it and then you end up eating the belly of the blade ... gotta be careful.

So anyway, what's a thread like this with no pictures ... here are some of my results ... I usually do a 24 degree bevel and I convex it to 20 or 19 with one degree intervals. The last two (20 and 19) I mostly use 1000 grit and higher to polish any imperfections from the coarser stones.

Let me repeat ... I destroyed a cheap knife or two before I got these kinds of results, so do be cautious! Oh ... and I almost sliced a thumb off once (it basically took the place of a stone and ran the entire edge ... nasty). ALWAYS focus on what you are doing and be safe! It wasn't fun.

Mnandi-10_zpsd0e156bf.jpg


Mnandi-11_zps5aedc536.jpg


60dfaa2c-8ec6-42c7-8681-c7214477fb9a_zps9e49b480.jpg


fc1c9a54-af1a-4fea-8641-f57f312e020f_zps613c0e5c.jpg


VECP-6Copy_zps21d9675f.jpg


VECP-5Copy_zps80174ffb.jpg


And a couple crazy blades I got the balls to polish! (just a polish, no metal removed whatsoever).

x3_zps186f55be.jpg


x-14_zps146fa965.jpg
Click to expand...
 
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