Wicked edge headed my way! Along with my small seb 21

Blue scotch tape I'll take a picture in a minute and post it for you but I cut the sand paper to the same size as the stone on the paddle and the wrapped the top with blue and the pulled as tight as I could and tapped the bottom
 
stevieman16 said:
Blue scotch tape I'll take a picture in a minute and post it for you but I cut the sand paper to the same size as the stone on the paddle and the wrapped the top with blue and the pulled as tight as I could and tapped the bottom
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Ok thanks, I just picked up a W/E last week along with a wilson combat small starbenza so I'm kind of in the same boat
 
Richard1234 said:
Ok thanks, I just picked up a W/E last week along with a wilson combat small starbenza so I'm kind of in the same boat
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On sebenza I haven't touched it with stones just strops and it turned out nice, I have only done three knives on my WE and it is breaking in awesome I can't wait to see its maximum potential
 
uofaengr said:
Good job! I'll trade you an Edge Pro for it.. :D
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I think I'm going to pass in that offer hahaha I like my setup right now, I used to have a edge pro knock off and it put out some great edges but the stones never lasted on it and the real edge pro stones were way to much for me at the time
 
At the rate you are going I predict you will be offering professional knife sharpening services in about a week. At minimum this thread has motivated me to get off my butt and start taking knives to a very sharp/mirrored edges. Thanks for taking the time to share the photos/progress reports.

stevieman16 said:

Fresh off the WE and it is hair whittling sharp
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FordFan said:
At the rate you are going I predict you will be offering professional knife sharpening services in about a week. At minimum this thread has motivated me to get off my butt and start taking knives to a very sharp/mirrored edges. Thanks for taking the time to share the photos/progress reports.
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Thanks for the compliments and good luck on the mirrored edge! It took me two hours to get the one on that kershaw crown, the diamonds are getting a nice break in, tomorrow they get to against some real stuff, I'm thinking kershaw cpm154
 
When you hold your edges up to the light, do you still have some scratches left over from previous grit? I've found with the Edge Pro sometimes it doesn't matter what you do, there will be a random deep scratch that just won't come out. Could be because what the stones are made out of, I don't know. I'm curious if diamonds ala WE help this problem.
 
The scratches are there, just depends on the way I hold it in the light. my diamond stones aren't completely broke in yet so the scratches from the 1000 grit diamonds are pretty provident but the sand paper I use does a very good job at hiding them and polishing over them
 
Okay, just got done with my kershaw 1760 with cpm154 blade steel started at 4:45 today all i can say is there is going to be some awesome pics tomorrow, tomorrow I'm going to sharpen one of my custom knives with cts-xhp it should be interersitng because the cpm154 was a B**ch for real
 
stevieman16 said:
Okay, just got done with my kershaw 1760 with cpm154 blade steel started at 4:45 today all i can say is there is going to be some awesome pics tomorrow, tomorrow I'm going to sharpen one of my custom knives with cts-xhp it should be interersitng because the cpm154 was a B**ch for real
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Do you think it would go faster if you had the 50/80 grit stones? I'm thinking of picking those up
 
Richard1234 said:
Do you think it would go faster if you had the 50/80 grit stones? I'm thinking of picking those up
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Don't do that ..... if your goal is simply "faster" reprofiling and you are sharpening something you want to mirror or polish nicely. Don't get me wrong, those plates have their purpose, but they are EXTREMELY aggressive. You will end up leaving huge scratches in the blade which, if you wish to mirror polish, will take you forever to remove. The 100/200 plates work fantastically for just about any steel I have tried them on including the newer super steels and heat treats in the 60s. That said, I do have the 50/80 plates and they do serve a purpose. I have used mine on a really thick Ka-bar Kukri. While it's 1085 steel blade is only HT'd to the low/mid-50s, it's very thick. The 50/80 plates worked extremely well to apex the edge (and much faster than would have been possible with the 100/200 plates).
 
stevieman16 said:
The scratches are there, just depends on the way I hold it in the light. my diamond stones aren't completely broke in yet so the scratches from the 1000 grit diamonds are pretty provident but the sand paper I use does a very good job at hiding them and polishing over them
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To remove the scratches try a circular motion with the 800 (sort of like when you wax your car, for some time). No pressure from then on, just the weight of the stones.

I agree with Dennis, the 50/80s are quick but dangerous ... you'll eat the blade in no time! Better to spend more time with higher grits and remove as little steel as possible.
 
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masterserg said:
The cube is a must. I find I usually need to set up the arms with one degree of variation, e.g. 24 on the fixed side, 25 on the moving clamp side to be about equal. You also want to be careful with how you position the knife on the vise ... to avoid wider tips. It's easy to get a sharp edge. It's not easy to get nice looking, even bevels.

Also, when you are sharpening (not retouching) make sure you spend enough time with the coarser stones ... but be very controlled with the pressure you apply. Usually, let the weight of the stone do the job.

Once I get to 1000, I cut strips of 2000 3M auto sandpaper and tape them to the ceramic stones (which I do not like). These do a great job of producing a mirror.
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I like the idea of attaching the sand paper to the ceramic stones.
 

Here is the edge I did last night It took me forever but I finally got the edge I was looking for ad I will try the circles at 800 grit and see how it does
 
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