Wicked Edge Owners....

I received my WEPS today. I started off with a cheap kitchen knife and quickly progressed to my XM-18. I went with a 20 degree angle using the 100 grit stones. You guys were right. You absolutely have to have the 100 grit stones to reprofile a "super steel." the results were satisfactory through 600 grit. I'm looking forward to receiving my 1200/1600 stones that were supposed to come with my original order in place of the 100/200... Glad there was an order mistake for one time in my life. Once those come, I'll move through the progression through 3.5 micron... Then I'll see what accessories I have to get next.
 
jaredharden said:
I received my WEPS today. I started off with a cheap kitchen knife and quickly progressed to my XM-18. I went with a 20 degree angle using the 100 grit stones. You guys were right. You absolutely have to have the 100 grit stones to reprofile a "super steel." the results were satisfactory through 600 grit. I'm looking forward to receiving my 1200/1600 stones that were supposed to come with my original order in place of the 100/200... Glad there was an order mistake for one time in my life. Once those come, I'll move through the progression through 3.5 micron... Then I'll see what accessories I have to get next.
Click to expand...

I just got done with re-doing my Acies (ZDP-189) to 30* inclusive.
I can not imagine not having every step I had. Each was begging for the next. Each did just that extra next bit as the blade progressed to the level of perfection I am capable of. 100-200, 400-600, 800-1000, 1200-1600 then on to the 14/10/5/3.5 strops. The blade is so shiny and smooth it almost doesn't feel as sharp because I think I am used to a rough edge type of sharp which "Feels" different, not mention (something we never discussed that I know of) Everybody samples their blade differently. I gently slide the very tip of my thumb kind of along the blade but with little quips in the motion, as the edge tries to bite ...that is how I detect sharpness. I handed my knife to a friend and said feel how sharp, he proceeded to shave a callus off his hand (Yuck)
Anyway, mine felt less sharp until I went after a piece of newspaper (my new other test) and it sailed through it like nothing.
I believe ALL the steps are necessary when $$ allow.
 
Update question: Fellow "users", as I mentioned I took the Acies down to 15* each side ( the angle AGR says the Acies is at already, NOT even close) I now also have the bevels very even and they are considerable being a FFG blade of that size, "Baby got Bevel". Yo.
Now if I remember the video, I go back no lower than 600 grit (if needed).
What do you guys do for touch ups or maybe even sharper ?
 
rubiconss said:
Update question: Fellow "users", as I mentioned I took the Acies down to 15* each side ( the angle AGR says the Acies is at already, NOT even close) I now also have the bevels very even and they are considerable being a FFG blade of that size, "Baby got Bevel". Yo.
Now if I remember the video, I go back no lower than 600 grit (if needed).
What do you guys do for touch ups or maybe even sharper ?
Click to expand...

Correct, you shouldn't need to go lower than 600 assuming you don't severely damage the edge somehow or if you decide to profile it differently.

As far as touch ups go, as long as you recorded or have your method of setting the knife up the same way each time you clamp it, touch ups are easy. I will usually just hit my EDC with the ceramics every other day or so just to keep them hair popping. I don't strop every time though I suppose I could.

I do know folks that use the Wicked Edge to get their blade to perfection and then just do the upkeep with a Sharpmaker.
 
goat37 said:
Correct, you shouldn't need to go lower than 600 assuming you don't severely damage the edge somehow or if you decide to profile it differently.

As far as touch ups go, as long as you recorded or have your method of setting the knife up the same way each time you clamp it, touch ups are easy. I will usually just hit my EDC with the ceramics every other day or so just to keep them hair popping. I don't strop every time though I suppose I could.

I do know folks that use the Wicked Edge to get their blade to perfection and then just do the upkeep with a Sharpmaker.
Click to expand...

I touch up my beveled edges with a few light brushes using the 800/1000 (blue and purple paddles), then a few swipes with the ceramic hones and a quick once over with the strops. It is probably overkill but then I am a little anal about my edges.
In the case of my convex edges, I just give those edges a few buffs with my leather strops and they stay a sharp as sharp can be.

Cheers
Leo
Thanks to Bill for catching my error.
 
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Hello all. I am a long-time follower of BladeForums and thought it might be time to add some content. The Wicked Edge System arrived a few days ago, and I have been very pleased.

After doing my homework, with help from BladeForum posters, I purchased almost every option available with the Wicked Edge with the exception of any extra course stones. I've used each set of stones from 100 to 1000 grit, the ceramic stones, and the leather strops with abrasive compounds down to 3.5 micron. I also purchased blank leather strops and will be testing with 0.5 micron Chromium Oxide paste, various diamond suspensions down to 0.25 micron, plus some 1 micron Boron Caride by Handamerican.

I am just starting out with a new mobile sharpening/polishing/restoration business which I truly enjoy. Having professionally sharpened a fair number of blades with varied equipment, I hope to continue updating the website (below) with additional micro-photography, goniometer observations, and comparisons with various processes.

Clay Allison's Wicked Edge joins other great tools that hopefully will help me jump from a hobbiest to a long-term small business operator. I currently own/use: Tormek T-7 with the upgraded Japanese water stone, Viel 1x42 belt system with many different belt substrates and abrasive grit specifications, including silicon carbide, cloth/cotton, cork, and specialized polishing belts,paper wheels from multiple sources, Spyderco SharpMaker, and I suspect nearly everything offered by DMT.

With an interest in Japanese steels and blades, I have also aquired Japanese water stones from Shapton, King, and others, with grit ratings from 800 to 12,000. With these finer waterstones, I consider myself a "newbie" and student after watching Dave Martell's DVD set "The Art of Knife Sharpening" from japaneseknifesharpening.com, plus Murray Carter's DVDs covering Blade Sharpening Techniques. Combined with Steve Bottorff's powerfully efficient book, "Sharpening Made Easy," I feel my understanding of the craft growing on a daily basis. By the way, I have had the honor to communicate directly with Clay A, Dave M, Murray C, and Steve B during the past few months and find each of them to be extremely knowledgeable, approachable, warm, and friendly, so I am confident I am involved with a craft that will continue to be very rewarding. The Wicked Edge appears to be an extremely fast manual system, which may provide a number of advantages. It will be interesting as I continue working with the system and comparing with these other approaches.

Photos of the new Wicked Edge packaging ("the unboxing") are included for reference as well.

(( rule violation ))

All the best, and thanks to all for sharing relevant and valuable info. This new endeavor is keeping me extremely busy, so it may be a while before I can add additional info or reply to questions. So please forgive me in advance if I am not as responsive as I would like to be here (for the short term).

Mike (( rule violation ))
 
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Cool. Welcome ! Considering your list of sharpening tools, I feel pretty good to own two(2) coming up on three(3) that made your impressive list.
Look forward to your contributions.:thumbup:
 
leomitch said:
I touch up my beveled edges with a few light brushes using the 1000/1200 (blue and purple paddles), then a few swipes with the ceramic hones and a quick once over with the strops. It is probably overkill but then I am a little anal about my edges.
In the case of my convex edges, I just give those edges a few buffs with my leather strops and they stay a sharp as sharp can be.

Cheers
Leo
Click to expand...

Leo-
Can you expand some Shapton and Chosera stones? I am not familiar.
 
Hi Scott
Among the stones used by the 'Ones' of sharpening, Shapton and Chosera stones are high on the list of the perfect sharpening stuff. Formerly they were made for the EP, but since the rapprochement with the WEPS, they will soon,like within a couple of weeks, be available for both the EP and the Wicked Edge paddles. Good stuff for us all!

Cheers
Leo
 
leomitch said:
Hi Scott
Among the stones used by the 'Ones' of sharpening, Shapton and Chosera stones are high on the list of the perfect sharpening stuff. Formerly they were made for the EP, but since the rapprochement with the WEPS, they will soon,like within a couple of weeks, be available for both the EP and the Wicked Edge paddles. Good stuff for us all!

Cheers
Leo
Click to expand...

Are they an entire group of stones or simply a phase in the line-up falling let's say, before strops but after ceramics?
 
rubiconss said:
Are they an entire group of stones or simply a phase in the line-up falling let's say, before strops but after ceramics?
Click to expand...

I am wondering the same thing myself. What would be the next progression after the 1200/1600? Would they work better than strops at that point?
 
I may have to be corrected here but when they are used by free hand sharpeners, they are a system to do the whole sharpening if you have the whole series of stones. In the case of this WEPS sharpener, I will insert them along the line as I experiment with them. But I am thinking the finer/finest grits will be the ones most used by me and I suspect most others with our rig.
I have a set of Chosera stones on its way to me, so as I play with them, I will fill you in as to my findings

Cheers
Leo
 
New guy here. Received the WE in the mail yesterday and got my spyderco endura hair popping sharp easily once I clamped the base down onto my work bench. 21 degrees with a 25 degree micro bevel with the ceramics to take out some old chips. Now I want a set of ultra coarse stones to redo some of my fixed blades.

Btw, has anyone tried to sharpen a scandi grind with the WE?
 
FishingFool said:
New guy here. Received the WE in the mail yesterday and got my spyderco endura hair popping sharp easily once I clamped the base down onto my work bench. 21 degrees with a 25 degree micro bevel with the ceramics to take out some old chips. Now I want a set of ultra coarse stones to redo some of my fixed blades.

Btw, has anyone tried to sharpen a scandi grind with the WE?
Click to expand...

Welcome to the WEPS club FF!!
The ultra coarse stones will certainly shape up those damaged blades.
So many people mean different things when they say scandi-grind...define please. I haven't found a blade I couldn't sharpen yet!

Best regards
Leo
 
FishingFool said:
New guy here. Received the WE in the mail yesterday and got my spyderco endura hair popping sharp easily once I clamped the base down onto my work bench. 21 degrees with a 25 degree micro bevel with the ceramics to take out some old chips. Now I want a set of ultra coarse stones to redo some of my fixed blades.

Btw, has anyone tried to sharpen a scandi grind with the WE?
Click to expand...

Welcome. Sharpened one of my sons scandi-grinds. Took my time matching the angle and went my new brand of "Light Touch" came out nice.
Definately a nice area to work with and get a nice shine. Then you can do what you did before and add a few degrees and micro-bevel it with your ceramics.

I was always under the impression that Spyderco was one of the few companies that use 15* (30*inclusive) on all their knives, one of the reasons they are so bleeding sharp.
 
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Leomitch -> I've got a mora clipper with some nicks that I wanna take out.

Just so I get the terminology straight, does 30 deg inclusive mean I set the angle on the WE 15 deg on each side and get 30 degrees total?
 
FishingFool said:
Leomitch -> I've got a mora clipper with some nicks that I wanna take out.

Just so I get the terminology straight, does 30 deg inclusive mean I set the angle on the WE 15 deg on each side and get 30 degrees total?
Click to expand...

.. Yes ..
 
Thanks for the info. This morning I did a 10" fillet knife and its thin blade was wobbling a little with each stroke but I can fillet paper with it now.
 
Did you use the blade stabilizer when you sharpened that blade. It helps tone down the wobble a lot. Check your kit for the slotted rod that fits in the hole on your vise at the end away from you!

Leo
 
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