I super glue the shield in place on the mark side then use a scribe that is really sharp(a needle would work also). I scribe around the shield carefully a few times to cut into the scale material.
This picture shows the scribed line ready to remove the material inside the lines to accept the shield
On this shield I am using a Dremel tool with a 1/32 dental burr. Again , many different ways of inletting a shield including the traditional parser plate and parser.
Provided I did not drink too much coffee this is what you should end up with. I have the two pin holes center punched. I will drill these with a 1/16 bit
These are the two tools I use to set the pins. I use the long tapered reamer from the front side and the short tapered cutter from the back. The long reamer leaves a tapered hole that makes it easy to hide the pin.
I am at the point were I spend a lot of hand sanding time cleaning things up. I use various sticks, files and wet or dry paper to take the inside of the frames to about 600 grit. The mark side frame on top has been cleaned up a bit. You can see the pins for the scales and shield are pretty much hidden on the inside also.
One of the items that has to be taken care of is to mark the center spacer and remove a bit of material to keep from the tangs being scratched. This would be difficult to hold and mill. I do it by hand on my belt sander
This shows what can be expected from the inside cleanup work. With a whittler or stockman the well is much more open than a single blade or jack with a center liner. This being the case its more important to get a better finish inside.
For the most part all that is left is lots of hand work. Finishing the inside, making sure the bolsters are nicely rounded.
I will have a few more pictures showing how I peen the pivot pins then a set of completed pictures along with a few notes on what will be done differently on the next two knives. I plan on also showing, noting the flaws in this knife so others, including myself , may learn from them.
Ken