Work Sharp Knife Sharpener

Gadgetaholic said:
I'm keen on 2x that - I have an address in CA, but then I have to pay for stuff to be forwarded on to New Zealand. I'd prefer to buy twice as many belts and pay for shipping half as often.

How would the AO belts go on knives? AO should be capable of grinding metal and Micro-Mesh offer much finer grades. Also I'm not sure that we really need all the close together grits. How about MX 120 & MX 240 - I vote we keep those in. Then maybe MX 400 & MX 600 & MX 1200 wouldn't that cover the range pretty well? Then add the AO 2400 & AO 4000.

I'm happy to go with the majority decision and $10 is fine for 14 belts. I'd also be happy with $12 and make it 16 belts - add a couple of AO 12,000 for mirror polishing. 2 lots - $20 to $24 sent to my CA address - count me in as a definite yes.
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As above, count me in too, I have an address in Rhode Island :)
 
I would be interested in hearing from anybody who has used these aftermarket belts and what kind of results they got with them.

For most of my needs so far the standard belt grits that come with the machine do well.
 
Ben B said:
Is there any interest in a small group buy of MicroMesh belts?
The reason I ask is that their minimum shipping is $12.50

Here's what I was thinking. Ten people in. Order the MX Series (for metal) in 1200, 800, 600, 400, 320, 240, and 120 grit. Two belts of each grit. For 10 people, that would be $72.80 in belts + $12.50 shipping + $6.37 CA tax if I ordered it here. Total $91.67. That is $9.20 per person plus postage back out plus an envelope. Say $10 per person and I can throw a couple of dimes in if it can go for 44 cents. If someone out of CA wanted to organize it it would be cheaper.

Any interest? That would be $10 for 14 belts (2 each of 7 grits) shipped.
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I'm up for it, too.
 
ricklee4570 said:
I would be interested in hearing from anybody who has used these aftermarket belts and what kind of results they got with them.

For most of my needs so far the standard belt grits that come with the machine do well.
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The standard belts have done all I need them to do, but I'd like something in between 220 and 6000 grits, myself.
 
cramsey3006 said:
The standard belts have done all I need them to do, but I'd like something in between 220 and 6000 grits, myself.
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That was pretty much my thinking. I'd like to explore the grits between 220 and about 1200 for working edges. Something a little more than 220 for reprogiling and then something less than 6000 for the final edge. If I recall correctly, the Spyderco brown (medium) is about 800 and the white (fine) is about 1200 or so. I'm actually getting good cutting right now with a pass of two on the 6000 and then a couple of swipes on the Spyderco brown but it is a work-in-progress.
 
Oh, and for the group buy, I'd be fine leaving out the MX 120 and 240 and getting the AO2400 and 4000. I can't imagine needing more aggressive than the P220 (or the P80!) supplied with it. Maybe we'll give it a week for people to chime in and then I can get a final tally with the finalized grits.
 
In other news:
My Work Sharp has now arrived - Woohoo!

But the downside:
I can't play with it yet because my 110V inverter hasn't arrived yet and I don't want to hit my new sharpener with 240V.

Hmmm, 120V, 60Hz, 0.7A - that's only 84VA. I guess a 120W power converter should be able to run that. It looks like the 250W model isn't much dearer, I might go that way so that it is under-stressed and running cooler.

I also received my field convex sharpening kit - http://www.knivesshipfree.com/Complete-Sharpening-Kit-for-Field-or-Home-w-Black-OtterBox that should make is straight forward enough to maintain my convex edges when camping or whatever.

I think I'll play with the polishing belt first, that should do less damage to my test knives while I get the hang of using my Work Sharp. I'll leave my reprofiling until I've practised a little first.
 
Ben B said:
Oh, and for the group buy, I'd be fine leaving out the MX 120 and 240 and getting the AO2400 and 4000. I can't imagine needing more aggressive than the P220 (or the P80!) supplied with it. Maybe we'll give it a week for people to chime in and then I can get a final tally with the finalized grits.
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I like the idea of having another course option that isn't quite as bad as the P80 - could be useful for major regrinds or repairs. The P220 supplied with the tool seem to be the intended main belt, another couple of a similar grit would get plenty of use I would expect. I like having the option of a P400 for the same tasks though - options are good.

If we see what everyone that is interested feels about various options like my 120, 240, 400, 600, 1200, 2400, 4000 suggestion or Ben's suggestion or any others then we can go with whichever one the majority feels would be most useful. After we get these belts and try them out then we'll have a better idea of what we find most useful and can advise others on this forum with the same questions that we have now.

BTW
I'm not opposed to bumping the cost up to as much as $15 if we want to get even more different belts. What do you guys think about say $14 for 2 of each of the MX Series (for metal) in 1200, 800, 600, 400, 320, 240, and 120 grit (as Ben suggested) and 2 of each of the AO 2400, 4000 & 12000. This would let us try out all the belts and get to know what we like the best, for a future order we would probably not get all of these but at the moment we don't have the experience with them to know what we like. I'm still up for 2 lots for $28 if we want to go this way. I wouldn't mind seeing if the 12000 would give a mirror polish to the blade edge.
 
I have only just got my sharpener and I haven't really had much time to do much yet, but I thought I might give a few impressions that I have so far.

I'm not a fan of the guides - I tried one knife with the guide and I didn't like it. I can't see what's going on with the guide in place and there is too little control. Maybe I'd use a guide for sharpening scissors, but for knives I just don't like 'em.

Using the tool freehand: so far I can see this being really good - I can see the edge and the angle is easy to approximate. For convex sharpening I don't think that the exact angle hold anything like the same importance as it does for a V-grind - you are going to be hitting the edge no matter what. It is easy to hold the knife with a shallow, normal or wide angle to the belt and near enough is likely to be good enough.

I put a useful edge on a couple of kitchen knives and used the paring knife to slice a tomato and some cucumber - I was able to slice much thinner than previously, I didn't get the edge to 'hair whittling sharp' or anything but it was definitely a useful edge for the kitchen. I took a large kitchen knife and sharpened it - completely balls it up and had it sharp only half way along the edge, the other half was as blunt as a butter knife. I tried again and in less than half a minute the entire edge was sharp - wow, this sucker can work fast (220 grit belt). For these knives I am happy if they can slice tomatoes and cut potatoes and other vegetable and also cut meat - if they can handle normal kitchen task much easier than before I sharpened them then I am happy with the result. So now I am happy.

One negative is the belts - 80, 220 & 6000 grit is a bit limited. I'd have liked to see maybe 80, 220, 800, 2400 & 6000 as a basic belt selection. The 6000 is good for polishing and I am thinking that I DON'T need a leather belt or anything like that - the 6000 grit belt can be my polisher. The 80 grit is plenty course enough - I'm sure it can cut quick enough to put a new edge on that axe or machete quick enough. The 220 seems pretty good for convexing and edge & getting it sharp, but it can take a bit too much steel off fairly quickly so if you aren't careful you could butcher a knife before you know it - an 800 grit belt might be better for finer sharpening without grinding off the steel nearly so fast. A 2400 grit belt could give a polish/sharpen to a knife that doesn't need much, whereas the 6000 grit belt is pretty much just a polish.

Overall in general use this sharpener impresses me - I don't have a workshop with a handy spot to set up a 1 x 30 belt sander, but the Work Sharp Knife Sharpener can be used on my lap sitting at my computer desk. It can be used damn near anywhere, it really is small & light enough to be truly portable and use in any part of the house where there is enough room to sit down. When using it without the guide it is easy to see that the belt is flexing so that the edge is getting convex sharpened - for convexing on a small power tool this is the way to go IMO.

For the Aussies that are keen:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=MF1082&keywords=250w&form=KEYWORD
For fellow kiwis:
http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=MF1082&keywords=250w&form=KEYWORD
This power converter seems to be able to handle the requirements very easily and isn't much dearer than the 120W version. It claims it can output 2.1A and the tool only needs 0.7A so it shouldn't get very hot and it should last a long time.
 
Ok got my work sharp and like it quite a bit however I have a few questions. First angles. I have a few Mora...what angle? A few benchmade...what angles? Kitchen Knifes...What angle? Also, Direction of the belt? Seems like one sides gets it into the blade and one away from the blade. I have always thought that going away from the blade instead of into it was better. Can you just used one side of the guide so you can keep belt direction consistant?
 
I agree, there should be a grit in between 220 and 6000...perhaps a 1200 grit?

Also, as I mentioned I have some Moras a 2000 and 2010. Blade thickness is thin so I would think the 40 degree kitchen guide would be better. I have a chip in my 2000 so it need to be reshaped. But I am not certain. Same also for folders...do they fall under the 50 degree outdoor knife guide.

Ok then there is convex? Anyone try this? Any video? I am all eyes and ears.
 
soapboxpreacher said:
I agree, there should be a grit in between 220 and 6000...perhaps a 1200 grit?

Also, as I mentioned I have some Moras a 2000 and 2010. Blade thickness is thin so I would think the 40 degree kitchen guide would be better. I have a chip in my 2000 so it need to be reshaped. But I am not certain. Same also for folders...do they fall under the 50 degree outdoor knife guide.

Ok then there is convex? Anyone try this? Any video? I am all eyes and ears.
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You might want to start by wading through the whole thread. There's some good tips in there.

Also, the 40 degree setting should be good for almost any knife. I wouldn't go bigger. Most of the users are finding it easier to use and adjust angles with the guide off. But if you aren't familiar with holding angles it may not be the case. Note that with the 40 degree guide, you are holding the blade in a straight manner. So without the guide, just hold the knife vertical as a starting point. Practice on old knives before the nice ones. In the thread there is also a discussion of getting some other grit belts.
 
Just a little FYI for those waiting, I will NOT be doing a review of this product.

Worksharp, I will be contacting you by email soon to return the product.

My experience in sharpening would make for a overly negative review and I simply don't want to do that. It works pretty good but I'm too picky and I don't want to make this product look bad when it is not.
 
Gadgetaholic said:
I also received my field convex sharpening kit - http://www.knivesshipfree.com/Complete-Sharpening-Kit-for-Field-or-Home-w-Black-OtterBox that should make is straight forward enough to maintain my convex edges when camping or whatever.
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Looks very pretty! How are you going to keep your leather hone from getting contaminated with different grits? If you put black on one side and green on the other, but use the same 'top of the box' platform, when you put the black side down some of that compound is going to wind up on the box. When you put the green side down, that courser black grit is going to contaminate your finer green compound. Same will happen when you put your hone away into the box. Plus... some of the sand from the sandpaper will ultimately fall off and lay in the bottom of the box. This will really do a number on your leather hone. Does the kit come with any instructions for dealing with this?

Stitchawl
 
knifenut1013 said:
Just a little FYI for those waiting, I will NOT be doing a review of this product.

Worksharp, I will be contacting you by email soon to return the product.

My experience in sharpening would make for a overly negative review and I simply don't want to do that. It works pretty good but I'm too picky and I don't want to make this product look bad when it is not.
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I'd actually like to read it... I think you're pretty objective on stuff you use, and it might help others decide if it was right for them. The isses you had may (or may not) matter to someone trying to decide.

I don't think a negative review is necessarily bad, if it's based in fact. Just shows the strengths and weaknesses.

cbw
 
knifenut1013, if you can be persuaded, I would also like to read what your thoughts are. I think with what you've said, you've given fair warning on how to take your review and may have actually scared people (me, at least) off more than you intended. I think at this point, in the interest of fairness, details would only help.

Either way, thanks for all the help you give us, Mike
 
knifenut1013 said:
Just a little FYI for those waiting, I will NOT be doing a review of this product.

Worksharp, I will be contacting you by email soon to return the product.

My experience in sharpening would make for a overly negative review and I simply don't want to do that. It works pretty good but I'm too picky and I don't want to make this product look bad when it is not.
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I'd like to read your comments on it, the good-bad-ugly.

We're grownups, we can take bad news.

FWIW, I could also say some negative stuff about it, but won't, as I've learned how to get around some of its weak points.

I find the little tool to be great; it travels with me in a small box in my trunk, so if worse comes to worst, I can plug it in somewhere and make things right. (Haven't tried using the lighter socket in the car yet with an adapter. May be too much current, will have to check out.) I wouldn't even think of trying to arrange things such that I could travel with the much larger, professional equipment.

Folderguy
 
We'll see, I'm in talks with Kyle from worksharp now and waiting to see what he says.

I just know how BF is and most of you know I don't sugar coat things so my initial thoughts were that it would turn into a negative image of the product. Its something I didn't want to create because this product is geared at a novice sharpener and because of my years of experience I view things in a different light. I didn't want to give a prospective customer a bad impression when its actually a decent product.
 
Now I'm really going crazy! Dying for details! I'm not a novice, but certainly not on your level either(& I bet that goes for most of us still following this thread). Without getting your specific observations how can we decide where we are in relation to the issues you have with it?
 
You may be right and I could be being to critical of my own views. I will most likely send a review to worksharp first and see what they think before the complete decision of not doing a review is made.
 
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