Work Sharp Knife Sharpener

Yes, 220 to 6000 grit is a big jump. I'll be ordering more belts in varying grits. I would think that the aluminum oxide belts would be OK in the higher grits. To compare apples and apples, you should read up on what belts are available for 1x42 and what they are made of particularly in the higher grits. One that you can get in the 1x42 is a leather belt for honing.
It's really going to be a trade-off on the Work Sharp vs. a 1x42 belt sander. Portability and a less selection in belts vs. having to go to your workbench but having a more versatile system. The 1/2" belt might give a little better control on small knives and recurves as well....
 
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Ben B said:
Yes, 220 to 6000 grit is a big jump. I'll be ordering more belts in varying grits. I would think that the aluminum oxide belts would be OK in the higher grits. To compare apples and apples, you should read up on what belts are available for 1x42 and what they are made of particularly in the higher grits. One that you can get in the 1x42 is a leather belt for honing.
It's really going to be a trade-off on the Work Sharp vs. a 1x42 belt sander. Portability and a less selection in belts vs. having to go to your workbench but having a more versatile system. The 1/2" belt might give a little better control on small knives and recurves as well....
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For those who are mechanically inclined, you may wish to consider buying belts in the grit you desire at the larger size, and cutting the belt up to make 1/2" X 12" belts from them. Not hard to do at all, and may be worth your while.

For me, the jump from 220 to 6000 isn't a problem. And then after honing with a leather belt with the green compound on it. Works great for me.
 
I don't find the jump from the 220 to 6000 much of an issue. Doing 5 passes on each side with the 220 and then 5 passes on each side with the 6000 (like the directions state) gives a pretty good polish to the edge.

I would like to get something like a 600 grit for touching up a well used (but not abused!) edge. That wouldn't remove metal as quickly as the 220 but would be better than a 6000 grit which is more for a stropped/polished edge.

Honestly, with light pressure, the 220 belt, especially after it's worn a bit, should give a very good, sharp working edge that shaves easily but still has a bit of tooth to it for heavy cutting applications.

It's a pretty versatile tool, IMO. I did use the 220 grit to re-profile my Kershaw Skyline. I'd sharpened the tip off just a tad with my Lansky. I ground the edge of the blade to a point then re-did the edge.

Hopefully tomorrow, I'll be able to get my review up and posted with some pictures. Need a couple of hours to myself to get it done, LOL.
 
Man oh man I bet one of these is about to find a PERMANENT home in the trunk of my car. As in, for sharpening all my friends/family knives that get rode hard, put up wet and cost less than a meal at Outback when brand spankin' new. I feel like its such a waste of time (and diamonds) to bust out all my DMTs on that stuff, but I don't wanna leave them hangin'. And I alway have to start at Course or EC because they get so bad off between my visits. I'm likin' it!! :D

Mind you, I doubt you'll see me using this on any of my stuff, but then again I keep mine up to snuff. Not anything against the product itself, but I take personal pride in free handing out a tree-topper edge.
 
Yeah, not enough time today to write something up. The in-laws showed up, LOL. Killed the rest of the day bs'ing with pa-in-law, always a good time. Hopefully I'll get home from work early enough to do something before the kids get home and we head to football. Gotta love life!!:thumbup:
 
Gotsouthern said:
Man oh man I bet one of these is about to find a PERMANENT home in the trunk of my car. As in, for sharpening all my friends/family knives that get rode hard, put up wet and cost less than a meal at Outback when brand spankin' new. I feel like its such a waste of time (and diamonds) to bust out all my DMTs on that stuff, but I don't wanna leave them hangin'. And I alway have to start at Course or EC because they get so bad off between my visits. I'm likin' it!! :D

Mind you, I doubt you'll see me using this on any of my stuff, but then again I keep mine up to snuff. Not anything against the product itself, but I take personal pride in free handing out a tree-topper edge.
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Once you get the hang of it, you might decide to do your good knives with it too.

A couple of days ago, I reprofiled a new user Strider SnG that came this week, and after working the free hand magic on the blade down to the 6000 grit belt, it was hair popping sharp..

I showed it to a friend Friday evening and asked him what he thought of the edge. He said it looked to be professionally done. And while I'm not a pro at this, it sure does produce a fantastic, convexed and hair popping sharp edge.
 
Folderguy said:
Once you get the hang of it, you might decide to do your good knives with it too.

A couple of days ago, I reprofiled a new user Strider SnG that came this week, and after working the free hand magic on the blade down to the 6000 grit belt, it was hair popping sharp..

I showed it to a friend Friday evening and asked him what he thought of the edge. He said it looked to be professionally done. And while I'm not a pro at this, it sure does produce a fantastic, convexed and hair popping sharp edge.
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you're a brave man Folderguy :) or maybe a real risk taker.
 
Folderguy said:
Once you get the hang of it, you might decide to do your good knives with it too.

A couple of days ago, I reprofiled a new user Strider SnG that came this week, and after working the free hand magic on the blade down to the 6000 grit belt, it was hair popping sharp..

I showed it to a friend Friday evening and asked him what he thought of the edge. He said it looked to be professionally done. And while I'm not a pro at this, it sure does produce a fantastic, convexed and hair popping sharp edge.
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Never can tell!! But the reason I made that statement wasn't a reflection of the quality of edge the tool is capable of. More that I get a sense of calm, almost a meditative feeling, from free handing on stones. But hey, I've got enough to go around, I'm sure I can find one or 3 of my own to try it on.
 
This looks like a very cool device. :cool: I just picked up some diamond and ceramic pocket size hones so this will have to wait until the next shopping spree. ;)
 
cziv said:
you're a brave man Folderguy :) or maybe a real risk taker.
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Well, neither, actually. I confess that taking the SnG up to that coarse grit belt definitely impelled me to focus intently on what I was about to do :eek: but, what the heck, it's only a knife :D

And it must be said that I had already probably sharpened/reprofiled/honed more than thirty knives with it already. So I knew what I was getting myself into. ;)

The whole process including reprofiling the edge, then hitting it with the 220 grit belt and afterwards the 6000, most likely took less than two or three minutes.

So, risk taker or brave or whatever, the blade is one big ole bad-a$$, waitin' fo sumthin to cut :D:D:D. And it really does cut quite well.
 
Gotsouthern said:
Never can tell!! But the reason I made that statement wasn't a reflection of the quality of edge the tool is capable of. More that I get a sense of calm, almost a meditative feeling, from free handing on stones. But hey, I've got enough to go around, I'm sure I can find one or 3 of my own to try it on.
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Start with a beater knife, or maybe some really dull kitchen knives, and after you've done quite a few, you'll be calm and meditative when you go at some better knives.
 
stevekt said:
This looks like a very cool device. :cool: I just picked up some diamond and ceramic pocket size hones so this will have to wait until the next shopping spree. ;)
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I have diamond and ceramic pocket size hones too. But this tool is the real deal. I only use those pocket tools now if I'm unable to wait to resharpen a blade. IMHO, the Worksharp is superior...
 
Folderguy said:
I have diamond and ceramic pocket size hones too. But this tool is the real deal. I only use those pocket tools now if I'm unable to wait to resharpen a blade. IMHO, the Worksharp is superior...
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I'm sure the Work Sharp is superior, in it's intended role. I didn't mean to imply that the pocket hones were bought to perform the duties of the Work Sharp, only that my hobby funds have already been spent for the time being.

And the pocket hones will go in my back pack so I can touch up my knives whenever I want. I can't very well bust out a hand held belt sander at my work desk to touch up my EDC pocket knife.

The Work Sharp is impressive and I'll eventually get one but not right now. It's on the "to buy" list.
 
Well, after reading this ENTIRE THREAD, I broke down and bought one. I just don't have the patoence for re-profiling by hand anymore.( That, and I don't drink enough coffee to get amped up enough anymore.)

That said, I'll probably play around with this system for awhile and sharpen all the neighbors kitchen knives, and my collection after that. We shall see...
 
Here is a follow up on my review of the Work Sharp. I had another group try out the Work Sharp Knife and tool sharpener last week. Showed the video and asked them to read the manual before starting. Then try out the unit. I think a few, like myself at times, don't fell that reading the manual is realy necessary. Could be that man thing? They started with the med. grit belt which was on the sharpener. The first person completed the first step and we went to the next person. All went well until the forth tried to sharpen his kitchen utility knife. The belt caught going into the edge and tore the belt. No damage to the knife or the operator. I put another medium grit belt on and he finished his knife with this belt. They changed to the fine belt and the first one to try also cut into the belt also ripping it. I then checked and found out that they had installed it inside out. The blade caught the splice and destroyed the belt. Put another fine belt on and they all finished and were very happy with the result they got. The lighting was not the best and could have been the reason for their mistake.
I still was not sure how the medium belt got torn.
The club trying the sharpener also asked how long each belt would last. I explained that diff. steel and how hard the steel was, what condition the edge was in were some of the factors as to how long the belts would give them good service.
Since I was evaluating this for the company I sent them a e-mail requesting any advice. To my surprise they responded the same day. Imagine that! The same day. Here is their answer as to what might have happened.

Thank you so much for the update Ron!

There are three conditions that lead to cutting the belts (though it is most common on the 6000 grit belt):

1. Leaving the tool / belt running while positioning the knife in the guide.

a. Solution: Always place the blade first, then power the tool and pull the blade through the guide.

2. Not keeping the blade against the out edge of the guide can leverage the cutting edge into the belt.

a. Solution: While placing the blade in the guide, ensure it is against the outer edge before powering up the tool.

3. When using the outdoor knife guide, if you leave the tool running and make a lazy pass to the left side of the guide it is easy to nick the belt (which cuts it of course).

a. Be careful with the knife edge when crossing from one side to the other on the outdoor knife guide



If one of your belt cutting conditions was outside of this Ron, please let me know. Belt failures are not this common in our experience.



Our test lab ran extensive tests on belt life. Our finding where about 50 knives sharpened per set of belts (2 each belts out of the box = 100 knives).

That said you are correct in your assessment of the variables: blade thickness, hardness, damage, material needed to be removed to restore a good edge, etc, etc.

Also factor in when you first sharpen a knife to shape the convex grind versus the quick re-honing of the same blade with the convex geometry already established.

This is a very hard thing to quantify due to the host of variables - we are NOT being purposely vague on this. We have spent weeks (literally) in the lab trying to determine this and struggle to pin it down due to the variables at play. Not to mention that this is based on knife sharpening and does not account for tool sharpening applications or the grinding of various materials.



-Kyle



Kyle M. Crawford



Product Manager

DAREX LLC

210 E. Hersey St.

Ashland, Ore. 97520

Tel: 800-597-6170
 
rpttrsn said:
....The belt caught going into the edge and tore the belt....
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So is this thing designed/intended to work with the belt rotating into the edge? I always thought all belt sharpening was done with the belt going away from the edge. At least that would make the most sense to me. What did the instructions say?
 
Gotsouthern said:
So is this thing designed/intended to work with the belt rotating into the edge? I always thought all belt sharpening was done with the belt going away from the edge. At least that would make the most sense to me. What did the instructions say?
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I was also wondering about this when I first got the machine. If you check their video the belt is going toward the edge when doing one side of the blade. I did find that if you follow the instructions it has never caught the edge for anyone else who tried it. I guess if you get distracted or do not pay attention to the video or the instructions you could catch the belt. Only one person had this problem out of about 15 or more that I had try this sharpener. He told me later that he was not sure that he had it against the guide.
 
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