Is is, only if you are only interested in edge retention. Most of us have wider expectations out of our knife steels.
Worst 3 Steels - Never Buy!
- Thread starter Tommy-Chi
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Is is, only if you are only interested in edge retention. Most of us have wider expectations out of our knife steels.
There have been no defensive personal attacks. Just people who disagree with the points you have been making throughout this thread.
For folks who don't want or expect to be disagreed with, I always suggest a blog.
Posting on Knife News's site or on Cedric and Ada's Youtube page might also be good choices.
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Very true
trevitrace
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What does UNLEASHED TO THE MAXXX/UNLEASHED TO THE MAXX/UNLEASHED mean?
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Pakistani mystery steel. Other than that, every steel can be considered ‘good’ in some way.
All that tells me is that heat treat is just as important as steel type when it coes to performance.
It's pretty technical. Not sure if a dog would understand.
You're right. YouTube is missing a commentator.
jc57
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I believe I can clarify the issue for you. You did not ask a simple question, or any question at all. You made a rather argumentative statement in the thread topic:
"Worst 3 Steels - Never Buy!"
That's a clickbait type of topic. It immediately generates the response of "who is this guy to tell me what to buy?" and "what makes him an authority on the subject, anyway?"
In the first post, you demand "OK, lets hear what you think!" Which is also confrontational, and there is no question asked. Questions end in one of these: "?". Exclamations end in one of these: "!"
A non-confrontational way to ask a question would be "Do you have a list of steels you just won't buy? Here is mine." And then explain that you are going by edge retention based on cutting tests and a couple of articles you have read, and not personal experience.
That is much more of a discussion topic.
Also - you got your wish. You got to hear what people think.
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Wait, so wait a minute. You came in here, posting the opinions (backed by some subjective tests done by someone else) to state your position...that's really just someone else's position? I mean, I knew this was the case, just wasn't sure whose opinion/list you were parroting.
A good rule of thumb, by the way, is to make your source known.
Anyway, ok. Cool story. I mean, the logic flaws here are pretty bad. You see that, right? Steels that can't measure up in extreme cutting tests against super steels doesn't make them bad. That's like being saying donkeys are worthless because they aren't as fast as race horses.
Come on, man.
Standard worksharp edge test (20 degrees micro convex for most tests. 17 degree edges is typical for UNLEASHED tests) unless otherwise noted. The test counts the number of cuts to very abrasive 1 inch thick sisal rope. UNLEASHED TO THE MAXX, Tormek 12 degree edge is not for everyone. The steel edge will roll.
I have some knives in 440C that are quite good; my favorite being my old Benchmade Axis TSEK (I think the number was 805?). Many years ago, that was my main one-handed EDC for a few years straight. Sure, it didn't hold an edge the longest, but it was reasonable and resharpened very easily to a hair-popping edge. I now carry other knives, but I still have and like that knife.
Whether any steel is good or bad depends heavily on the knife manufacturer AND what the knife is going to be used for. I don't want a steel that behaves like a bar of soap, but I also don't care for a steel that holds an edge "forever" but is difficult or fussy in how it resharpens (and it WILL eventually need resharpening). I've even read some comments from people who use some 'super-duper' steels that after every use or so they touch it up to avoid having to deal with a bear of a resharpening. So what's the difference, then, between that and an 'inferior' steel that needs a touch up every few days (or every couple of weeks)?
Jim
Whether any steel is good or bad depends heavily on the knife manufacturer AND what the knife is going to be used for. I don't want a steel that behaves like a bar of soap, but I also don't care for a steel that holds an edge "forever" but is difficult or fussy in how it resharpens (and it WILL eventually need resharpening). I've even read some comments from people who use some 'super-duper' steels that after every use or so they touch it up to avoid having to deal with a bear of a resharpening. So what's the difference, then, between that and an 'inferior' steel that needs a touch up every few days (or every couple of weeks)?
Jim
OK, well we can use Ankerson's list if Pete's from Cedric and Ada is no good.
Ankerson said the following are "Low-End Steels":
420J2
440A
5cr15mov
7cr13Mov
AUS-6
Cast Iron
Agree or disagree?
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Lists created by other people and their personal experiences don't mean anything to me, or to many other people, which is the point you are failing to grasp. Also, what is YOUR stake in this? Do you not have any opinions of your own backed by personal experiences? Or do you just search out lists of things on the internet that someone else created, so you can point to it and say "That's my opinion, it's the correct one!"
As I (and others) have already stated, your position is patently false. There are countless knives out there made of inexpensive steels which will do the job, that being "function as a knife" just fine. I am really having a hard time understanding why you don't seem to understand that your stance ignores a large number of use-cases that, you know, normal everyday people have. Not everyone needs a giant 3V chopper, or a $250 S110V folding knife. That means that you can't objectively state that those two things (or any other on your assuredly copied list of super-steels) are "the best".
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Tommy, without going to Google up someone else's answer to regurgitate as your own, can you tell me which of the following two are better:
- A beautiful S110V Spyderco PM 2
- A beautiful Buck 110 in 420HC, and an inexpensive ceramic rod to keep it sharp
Both of these will cut just fine for someone who needs a knife for knifely things (like cutting stuff). Soooooo........? How can you claim one is better than the other, to someone who just needs a knife to cut?
I think you know the answer.
- A beautiful S110V Spyderco PM 2
- A beautiful Buck 110 in 420HC, and an inexpensive ceramic rod to keep it sharp
Both of these will cut just fine for someone who needs a knife for knifely things (like cutting stuff). Soooooo........? How can you claim one is better than the other, to someone who just needs a knife to cut?
I think you know the answer.
Or to someone who isn't only interest isn't edge retention?
To claim steel X has better edge retention than steel Y, and that makes steel X better is naive.
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Why argue over other people's arguments?
I've had good results with aus8 and 8cr, from a few different companies, given the price point and my needs.
Things really are relative when it comes to steel. How well is it done? What are you using it for? How much did you pay? If you come out those questions with an overall answer you aren't happy with then you might consider a different steel.
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Agreed.
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