Your newest addition:traditionals of course!

ScarFoot said:
Well it’s had a haircut and a shave. There was some extremely deep rust and pitting in the ridges so I took them completely off. I’ve been hand stoning the logo side cheek for hours. It’s got some old battle wounds and what appears to be an old grinder scar at the 7:00-8:00 position that I don’t like but I’m not going to take off enough material to remove them. The logo is certainly more prominent now. The striking surfaces were essentially pristine after some surface rust removal. Makes me wonder how hard they are.

View attachment 3091637
Click to expand...
Fine restoration job :cool: Of course if it were an old knife a chorus of voices would chant "leave it as it is, never clean off
rust patina, years of character, stories to tell, let it be bla bla" I'm not convinced by this dirge, rusting hulks are what they are, but knives with slight corrosion/wear are enhanced by careful restoration. Otherwise you run the risk of a knife deteriorating further and becoming one of those fossils, I'm not talking about buffing a knife into oblivion either but I admire the careful work done by people such as Primble Primble in restoration of old knives. Hammers deserve preservation too :D Looking forward to seeing it with a new handle :thumbsup:
 
Will Power said:
Fine restoration job :cool: Of course if it were an old knife a chorus of voices would chant "leave it as it is, never clean off
rust patina, years of character, stories to tell, let it be bla bla" I'm not convinced by this dirge, rusting hulks are what they are, but knives with slight corrosion/wear are enhanced by careful restoration. Otherwise you run the risk of a knife deteriorating further and becoming one of those fossils, I'm not talking about buffing a knife into oblivion either but I admire the careful work done by people such as Primble Primble in restoration of old knives. Hammers deserve preservation too :D Looking forward to seeing it with a new handle :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
I know what you’re saying. I don’t mind patina at all but this had level of rust on it that was detrimental and would have shortened the life of the hammer if not addressed. I think it had surely been buried in an old barn floor or something. Fortunately the eye is still in good shape. I was concerned since it was packed full of dirt. I plan on using it like I bought it at the hardware store last week so my main concern was eliminating the rust while still keeping the logo. I might blue it when I’m finished.

One advantage of cleaning things like this up is that sometimes you find markings that weren’t visible before. I uncovered a new mystery on it yesterday. It’s got a US then a slanted line below followed by an exaggerated V or M shape. I posted pictures on an old tool forum to see if they could come up with something. I’m thinking it might be some type of manufacturer location marking. They don’t look like military markings I’ve seen on old tools. I believe by the logo this hammer was made between 1912-1940. Maybe someone on here will recognize it. I’m still researching it.

IMG_1299.jpeg
 
ScarFoot said:
I know what you’re saying. I don’t mind patina at all but this had level of rust on it that was detrimental and would have shortened the life of the hammer if not addressed. I think it had surely been buried in an old barn floor or something. Fortunately the eye is still in good shape. I was concerned since it was packed full of dirt. I plan on using it like I bought it at the hardware store last week so my main concern was eliminating the rust while still keeping the logo. I might blue it when I’m finished.

One advantage of cleaning things like this up is that sometimes you find markings that weren’t visible before. I uncovered a new mystery on it yesterday. It’s got a US then a slanted line below followed by an exaggerated V or M shape. I posted pictures on an old tool forum to see if they could come up with something. I’m thinking it might be some type of manufacturer location marking. They don’t look like military markings I’ve seen on old tools. I believe by the logo this hammer was made between 1912-1940. Maybe someone on here will recognize it. I’m still researching it.

View attachment 3093102
Click to expand...
Could it be a couple scratches?
To me, the depth is too shallow, and the width looks a bit thin for a stamp. Also, a small nearby nick is deeper.
 
afishhunter said:
Could it be a couple scratches?
To me, the depth is too shallow, and the width looks a bit thin for a stamp. Also, a small nearby nick is deeper.
Click to expand...
I initially thought so but looking at it under magnification it looks like the rest of the markings. I think it’s shallow because it’s stamped across a curved surface. I believe that’s the reason the Keen Kutter logo is so much shallower at the top than the bottom as well. Corrosion seemed to be a consistent depth across the cheeks. The straight line below is at an identical angle to the U and is perfectly centered between the S and the V/M shape. The V/M shape is also perfectly mirrored if you divide it down the center. So, I’m fairly confident those four marks were added intentionally. It’s hard to get a good picture of it all. It could have just been added by the owner or an old tool room marking. I’ve been looking into who Keen Kutter contracted to make their hammers but I haven’t found anything to make any sense of it yet. I believe a lot of them were made by True Temper and Stanley.

It’s mainly just interesting. I’m trying to figure out how to keep it visible and still get a protective finish on it.
 
ScarFoot said:
I’m trying to figure out how to keep it visible and still get a protective finish on it.
Click to expand...
Your idea of bluing (or browning) has merit, tho a light coat of oil every so oft will be necessary.
Have you considered a hot vinegar forced patina everywhere but the faces?
As with a knife blade the patina will protect against rust, with a "bonus" of not needing the occasional wipedown with an oil or silicon rag.
 
afishhunter said:
Your idea of bluing (or browning) has merit, tho a light coat of oil every so oft will be necessary.
Have you considered a hot vinegar forced patina everywhere but the faces?
As with a knife blade the patina will protect against rust, with a "bonus" of not needing the occasional wipedown with an oil or silicon rag.
Click to expand...
I have thought about it. I do forced patinas on about half of the knives I make. I’m a little concerned about some of the deeper scratches and nicks trying to rust if I do that though. It has remnants of some ancient black coating that I can’t get off without sanding deeper than I want to. Soaking in acetone overnight didn’t touch it. Nor will a wire wheel. I need to get that off before I apply any kind of new finish.
 
ScarFoot said:
I have thought about it. I do forced patinas on about half of the knives I make. I’m a little concerned about some of the deeper scratches and nicks trying to rust if I do that though. It has remnants of some ancient black coating that I can’t get off without sanding deeper than I want to. Soaking in acetone overnight didn’t touch it. Nor will a wire wheel. I need to get that off before I apply any kind of new finish.
Click to expand...
small/tiny "Dremel" teardrop diamond or ball grinding wheel that fits where the black is, maybe?
I'll guess a mico torch would be a no-no.

Is there a radiator shoppe nearby that boils brass/copper radiator cores?

31 years years ago I worked at a repair shoppe that boiled their own radiators.
I boiled the (steel) frame and slide of a LLama .45 I had, overnight to remove the worn bluing and probably 30 years worth of dried, caked, and hard "eww" the previous owner(s) left in the machining.
That got rid of all bluing and ancient grime. It also lightly copper plated the frame and slide, making it unnecessary (and impossible) to re-blue or brown.
The frame and slide were also "rust-proof" after the accidental light copper plating.

(NOTE: The pistol had a very light slightly pinkish color afterwards.)
 
Last edited:
Just received this 1996 NKCA Club Knife made by C. Schlieper .
0tnmnd8.jpg

XCKHmu7.jpg

9rzEBIb.jpg

kiePuJK.jpg


It came to me with the original Shipping Bag and Box that was sent to the original buyer in 1996 who was most likely a Collector because I can not see that this knife has ever been used . I did not buy this from the original buyer .
Dbn0OKD.jpg

GOumNve.jpg

And Serialized
b3ep4D5.jpg

The NKCA Shield Glue Job failed as I handled the knife , while in my garage , and revealed that there was a Hole for a Pinned Shield . Shield found and glued back in place .
The knife is just shy of 3.70 " long . Main Blade is centered and there are No Scratches on the blades .
There also was another 1996 NKCA Club Knife just like this one made by Winchester .

Harry
 
Last edited:
Couple of weeks back I was musing about the French knife Florinox Kiana. Some say It's a contemporary Opinel but I find it more Douk-Douk: cast handle, backspring and a lock, lightweight well made and tough working knife. So being in the EU I got one from a French dealer in Sea Green, VERY satisfied with it and a grand surprise. Another surprise awaited me with striking kindness and generosity from out friend Jolipapa Jolipapa as he sent me not only a Kiana in Orange but a beautiful commemorative 2€ coin celebrating the final restoration of Notre Dame cathedral after the hideous fire of 2019, one of Europe's cultural landmarks.

Many thanks indeed Alain 😍

1770293826823.jpeg
 
Will Power said:
Couple of weeks back I was musing about the French knife Florinox Kiana. Some say It's a contemporary Opinel but I find it more Douk-Douk: cast handle, backspring and a lock, lightweight well made and tough working knife. So being in the EU I got one from a French dealer in Sea Green, VERY satisfied with it and a grand surprise. Another surprise awaited me with striking kindness and generosity from out friend Jolipapa Jolipapa as he sent me not only a Kiana in Orange but a beautiful commemorative 2€ coin celebrating the final restoration of Notre Dame cathedral after the hideous fire of 2019, one of Europe's cultural landmarks.

Many thanks indeed Alain 😍

View attachment 3096778
Click to expand...
Wow congratulations Will.
Very nice of you Alain😎
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top