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Wanna baton? Fine. Just don't ask to borrow my knives to do it. I'll loan you a hatchet or an axe though.![]()
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Wanna baton? Fine. Just don't ask to borrow my knives to do it. I'll loan you a hatchet or an axe though.![]()
I've only noticed knife enthusiasts talking about batoning for maybe the past 5 years.
All apologies, rim. I was being overly sarcastic. In retrospect, I wouldn't baton the golog if I had a hatchet. Forgive my poor a tempt at humor.
G...
And no, I wouldn't hit the golog with the hammer poll.
I almost wished you did because I was curious. I have two of the regular Goloks. Really like them. (One is still brand new and a "spare".) Then the Pack Golok came out and I have moved to it as my dominant woods craft kind of "machete". The weight forward is what appeals to me with it for chopping versus the light regular Golok. Condor makes so many that interest me but for pure bush wacking, my favorite is the El Salvador.
I would have no problem with batoning the Pack Golok. It is not like it's a $500 blade that if you damage it, you cry for weeks.
Keep whacking something long enough it'll break.
Maybe this is just my years at Boy Scout camp 50 years ago, but my own take on batoning is that it's a technique to know how to do and you plan your trips well enough that you never need to use it. If you're planning a trip and you will be making wood fires with found wood, then you're better off bringing a small, light hatchet with you. Again, the Bridgeport Scout hatchet is my mental model for the thing. (Yes, I know there are lighter models today.)
The hatchet blade should be sharp enough that you can shave wood curls with it, or make a proper fuzz stick. Most people carrying hatchets don't get them sharp enough to do this. The hatchet actually takes the place of the "sharpened prybar" which some bushcraft knives resemble. A sharp hatchet plus a folding pocket knife, and you are much more well equipped than the advertisements for big thick survival knives would have you believe.
Main thing: plan your trips, gain experience, and come prepared for what you'll do.
My Mora Classic, Buck 119, Kershaw Skyline, Victorinox Paring knife, and Victorinox Pioneer beg to differ. I can at least agree with the statement regarding wood. Knots suck!Batoning is totally fine, just use a knife that can handle the task (full tang, high carbon steel, well forged: ESEE, Becker, EnZo, etc) and proper wood pieces, not too knotty or hard!
I've heard this perpetuated a lot, never seen any proof to back it up. If missused, any can be dangerous. Same goes for knives and axes.It is safer than chopping or swinging any edged tool and it's just steel vs wood!
Notches for pot hooks, hearth boards, stakes, and various other projects. I think wood selection comes into play here especially, but saying it has no use?Cross batoning, btw, is to be avoided...it's very stressfull for the blade and not really useful at all.
Sure, but would you be more comfortable with with someone swinging a hatchet or batoning a knife if you know they are new to the whole thing? I feel most people can hammer a nail without injury, but most people don't know how to swing an ax safely.I've heard this perpetuated a lot, never seen any proof to back it up. If missused, any can be dangerous. Same goes for knives and axes.
+1Notches for pot hooks, hearth boards, stakes, and various other projects. I think wood selection comes into play here especially, but saying it has no use?
Never met anyone on the backcountry with a chisel or chisels.Your knife is built very differently from a chisel for that reason... Do I really need to explain all the differences to illustrate that cross batoning is not justified because chisels exist? You don't need to baton to make notches for pot hooks and stakes, this is pretty easy to do by just pushing the blade into the wood.