ZT 0600 Feedback?

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Its a big one, I love big folders within reason, it has to fit in my front pocket and the 0600 carries easily. I bought this knife on a whim, wasn't even impressed with it the first time I saw it in Blade magazine but it certainly grew on me. I'm SO glad I bought one.

I know I've asked this several times yet I'm going to try again, anyone sharpen or reprofile theirs yet? I'm very curious about the B75P steel and how it sharpens. I recently reprofiled a CPM-154 SMF down to 20 degrees per side on a Sharpmaker (I used the diamond rods...later the Ultra) and thought I was never going to be done...just wondering if the 0600's blade will be the same. Then again, maybe ships with an edge that's closer to 40 degrees combined from the factory...I don't know.
 
KLJTech said:
Its a big one, I love big folders within reason, it has to fit in my front pocket and the 0600 carries easily. I bought this knife on a whim, wasn't even impressed with it the first time I saw it in Blade magazine but it certainly grew on me. I'm SO glad I bought one.

I know I've asked this several times yet I'm going to try again, anyone sharpen or reprofile theirs yet? I'm very curious about the B75P steel and how it sharpens. I recently reprofiled a CPM-154 SMF down to 20 degrees per side on a Sharpmaker (I used the diamond rods...later the Ultra) and thought I was never going to be done...just wondering if the 0600's blade will be the same. Then again, maybe ships with an edge that's closer to 40 degrees combined from the factory...I don't know.
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No reprofiling for me.. just some stropping.
 
KLJTech said:
Great, what did you use to reprofile the blade (Wicked Edge, Edge Pro?) and how tough was the steel to sharpen?

Thanks so much, I was very curious to know if anyone had changed the edge profile or just sharpened it and what the B75P was like to work with. The last blade I reprofiled was a CPM-154 SMF, I took it down to 20 degrees per side using just a Sharpmaker with the diamond rods and then worked my way up to the Ultra fine ones. To say it took a long time would be an understatement but it turned out very nice and now I simply keep it sharp with a strop.

I just received a new strop, the NoMomma from Stropman and its sweet...highly recommended and the owner is a super nice guy to do business with.

Thanks again.
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I used wicked edge, and it took about 2 hours maybe 2.5, going from 100 all the way through 1600 and 5 micron strop. ITs very hard but holds an edge very well, im very happy
 
KLJTech said:
Its a big one, I love big folders within reason, it has to fit in my front pocket and the 0600 carries easily. I bought this knife on a whim, wasn't even impressed with it the first time I saw it in Blade magazine but it certainly grew on me. I'm SO glad I bought one.

I know I've asked this several times yet I'm going to try again, anyone sharpen or reprofile theirs yet? I'm very curious about the B75P steel and how it sharpens. I recently reprofiled a CPM-154 SMF down to 20 degrees per side on a Sharpmaker (I used the diamond rods...later the Ultra) and thought I was never going to be done...just wondering if the 0600's blade will be the same. Then again, maybe ships with an edge that's closer to 40 degrees combined from the factory...I don't know.
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23 degrees was as close as i could get to the factory edge(per side) its very hard, id rate it somewhere between s110v and elmax for sharpening. Cpm 154 is waaaaay below this steel as far as sharpening hardness, i have done several blurs in that steel and its a quick run through compared.
 
greeenie said:
I used wicked edge, and it took about 2 hours maybe 2.5, going from 100 all the way through 1600 and 5 micron strop. ITs very hard but holds an edge very well, im very happy
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What was the factory edge on yours? 22 or so degrees per side? What angle did you reprofile it to?

Thanks for the information, that's very helpful.
 
is probably a good bet honestly, there is def a sweet spot somewhere near 23, which is why i have stayed there
 
I'd venture to guess 50 inclusive. Just use a sharpie, hit the edge, and you'll be done in no time. I'm not one that likes to spend an hour sharpening, if you hit the existing edge, 20 minutes tops.
 
How's everyone's lock-up? Mine is at about 50 percent. This seems to be the norm with ZT frame locks.
 
*updated 0600 report* serial #455

After getting to use this knife a bit, it seems I've yet again been struck with a not-so-perfect representation of a folder.

Applying negative hand pressure to the spine of the knife, there is slight side to side play, and up and down. I can tighten the pivot fully to eliminate the side to side play, but then the blade sits even more off center then what it currently is.

To be fair, my coyote g-10 Combative Edge M1 exhibits the same behavior with slight side to side play in the blade, although on this knife, it does not interfere with the blade centering. My Spyderco Southard has been used quite a bit, and remains rock solid, with zero blade play in any direction. I'm beginning to think this is indicative to the design that Spyderco employed.

The lock seems very reliable on the 0600 regardless of these issues, with no indication of it slipping. I'm going to try and not obsess about the quirks of this particular 0600, but seems like it could of been tuned a little bit better considering the price tag most dealers are asking.

Given the nature of the lock bar insert, is there a way in which I can tune this knife myself, and possibly eliminate these quirks? The 0600 really speaks to me, and if I can make it more representative of its 400 dollar price tag, I'd be glad to give it a shot.
 
The blade on the knife is 4.25 inches. That's quite a long lever to apply pressure. I doubt there is a knife out there with a blade that long that you couldn't induce some kind of side to side blade play. Grab it closer to the tang and wiggle it in your fingers. If there is no play, then it's completely fine.

As far as the up and down play, I've seen your videos before and I know better than to trust your opinions on up and down play...
 
If there's an issue you can contact KAI/ZT and I'm sure there would be no problem having them take care of any issues you may have with the 0600. Honestly, I haven't even used mine yet other than flipping it open and closed (no play at all in any direction) as I wasn't sure if I was going to keep it.

Good luck, if you can't take care of the problem yourself I know that ZT will.
 
KLJTech said:
If there's an issue you can contact KAI/ZT and I'm sure there would be no problem having them take care of any issues you may have with the 0600. Honestly, I haven't even used mine yet other than flipping it open and closed (no play at all in any direction) as I wasn't sure if I was going to keep it.

Good luck, if you can't take care of the problem yourself I know that ZT will.
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Oh you mean so Jimmer can hand pick his replacement only to have Duro complain about that one too and Jimmer find zero issues with the one that was turned in....
 
Scurvy092 said:
Oh you mean so Jimmer can hand pick his replacement only to have Duro complain about that one too and Jimmer find zero issues with the one that was turned in....
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I'm sorry but I'm unaware of any back story here...simply saying that ZT has very good customer service and if he has a problem why not contact them.
 
duro said:
HAH, that lock disengaged on the 0561.
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Yeah well when you put your thumb on the lockbar while applying pressure, it's supposed to close. That's what way a frame/liner lock works. It did not fail as in the video Carter posted. It only failed when you had your thumb in between the lockbar and frame.

Let's not rehash the whole thing. I just want other people to understand that Duro had an issue with a 561, posted a video that some people found questionable. The knife was sent back and replaced. Jimmer found the knife in question to be without fault and after Duro would not let it go, was asked to not post in the KAI subforum when it was still around.
 
Scurvy092 said:
Yeah well when you put your thumb on the lockbar while applying pressure, it's supposed to close. That's what way a frame/liner lock works. It did not fail as in the video Carter posted. It only failed when you had your thumb in between the lockbar and frame.

Let's not rehash the whole thing. I just want other people to understand that Duro had an issue with a 561, posted a video that some people found questionable. The knife was sent back and replaced. Jimmer found the knife in question to be without fault and after Duro would not let it go, was asked to not post in the KAI subforum when it was still around.
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No one was disengaging the lock. So I'm sure that 0550 was just a "one off" out of the thousands of knives produced. You're in some serious denial if you think I was disengaging the lock bar. Granted more force was needed to cause the lock to fail, it failed.

I'm sure Jimmer was able to replicate the problem, however I wouldn't expect him to publicly admit fault.
 
duro said:
No one was disengaging the lock. So I'm sure that 0550 was just a "one off" out of the thousands of knives produced. You're in some serious denial if you think I was disengaging the lock bar. Granted more force was needed to cause the lock to fail, it failed.

I'm sure Jimmer was able to replicate the problem, however I wouldn't expect him to publicly admit fault.
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If I am in denial than so was pretty much everyone else in the thread who pointed it out.
 
Who, you and the other guy that got a free 0600 serial #2. from KAI? Thought so...
 
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