$0.75 Start to finish bushcraft knife in less time then it takes to get a pizza.

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Coop I might take you up on that if it turns out well :)

Got a question someone may be able to answer. How deep do you think it screwed with the tempering by using the grinder on it? I just re-profiled it on a belt sander dunking it in water to keep it cool to the touch. If I did this could it have removed the burnt material off of it? Just wondering because someone said I could do this in one of the blacksmithing forums I visit.
 
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Wait for a knife maker. ^ But, I HT it again.
Well, I profiled my file kozuka. Looks good... so far.
 
GEDC1084.jpg

GEDC1083.jpg


I will be sending it in for heat treating thinking of doing something to the handle tho lol
 
I agree with Rolf, it probably needs to be heat treated again. You can anneal it yourself to make it easier to drill and file. All you need to do is take it up to a few shades above red with a torch or charcoal fire and them bury it in Vermiculite, Lime, or wood ashes and let it cool overnight. After that it should be soft enough to work fairly easily. You can then fine tune the bevels, shape the handle, etc. and then have Shaw H/T it.
The fact that a good known steel you buy from a reputable vendor comes annealed and ready to drill, file, grind etc. is much better for a stock removal knife than a hardened file or any other piece of hardened steel. Its not that the steel is bad, its just that its not as easy to work with hand or power tools. If you're gonna forge it really doesn't matter other than the fact that you're still dealing with an unknown steel.
 
Brian.Evans said:
Yep, I agree. Flexcut all the way!

20131226_150121-1.jpg
Click to expand...

That is a really kickbutt spoon, Brian!

Check out Whetstone Woodenware for an unbelievably affordable hard maple spoon. I own a bunch, including an amazing tiger striped example.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Thanks STeven. It was my first spoon, completely hand carved from 20 year old dry walnut from the back yard of my childhood home. Never again. You think maple is hard, that walnut was like iron.
 
Pushing the "No Flaming Rule" to the limit. Good intentions but maybe the wrong place to post : Quote This will show you you can have a bushcraft knife in less time then it takes for my pizza to show up. 34 mins total I could have been faster with a belt sander and a bench grinder but you can pick up a 4 inch grinder for $20.00 at Harbor Freight and make this knife.The bearings are going out in the worksharp as well.If you have any questions or comments please post them thank you
Guess my question would be on a Custom knife discussion Forum, Why not post in the Knifemakers section if the "Intent" was to educate us?
Just get the distinct impression of negativity towards our craft!
 
Why does bushcraft knife have to mean a thick blade with saber grind and a bevel angle steeper than a good felling axe ?


Thin is in man,
 
The Count's Standard Reply to New Knifemakers V35

The answer to a student is different than to a retired machinist
With members worldwide, you may have a local supplier, hammerin or neighbour.
Join our community;fill out your profile with location (Country, State, City), age, education, employment and hobbies so we get a sense of where and who you are.


The basics in the simplest terms
Absolute Cheapskate Way to Start Making Knives-Printable PDF
http://www.2shared.com/document/hk4wQruA/Absolute_Cheapskate_Way_to_Sta.html


Web Tutorials
Detailed instructions http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=694673

Things I Advise New Makers Against-Printable PDF http://www.mediafire.com/?8og1ix21j9dcz4n

Handle Tutorial - Nick Wheeler-PDF http://www.mediafire.com/?02ra4do6xyzayeq
http://www4.gvsu.edu/triert/cache/articles/nw1/scales1.htm

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...Wheeler-s-Steel-*-Stuck-in-the-metal-with-you
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/956343-Damascus-integral-tag-along

Bob Egnath how to http://www.engnath.com/manframe.htm

Books
A list of books and videos http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9435307&postcount=43

BladeForums - E-books or Google books http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=603203

Books I like:
David Boye-Step by Step Knifemaking
Tim McCreight-Custom Knifemaking: 10 Projects from a Master Craftsman
Clear, well organized, available and inexpensive.


Forging Books:
Lorelei Sims-The Backyard Blacksmith - A modern book with colour photos - forging - no knifemaking.

Jim Hrisoulas
The Complete Bladesmith: Forging Your Way to Perfection
The Pattern-Welded Blade: Artistry in Iron
The Master Bladesmith: Advanced Studies in Steel

Machine Shop Basics -Books:
Elementary Machine Shop Practice-Printable PDF Http://www.archive.org/download/elementarymachin00palmrich/elementarymachin00palmrich.pdf

The Complete Practical Machinist-Printable -1885-PDF http://ia700309.us.archive.org/6/items/completepractic00rosegoog/completepractic00rosegoog.pdf
Right Click and save

The $50 knife Shop-not recommended
Great title, but NOT gospel.
Forging is NOT necessary; file and grind (stock removal)

Forget the "Goop Quench" It's Bullsh*t
Back when they used whale oil, it was still liquid oil
Use a commercial quench oil & match oil speed to steel type;
Grocery store canola oil works for some steels like 1084

Junkyard steel requires skill and experience to identify and heat treat
Forget Lawnmower blades and railroad spikes, start with a new known steel
Good heat treating needs accurate temperature control and full quench
Proper steel like 1084FG from Aldo is inexpensive and quench in Canola

Cable damascus is an advanced project has no place in a beginner’s book

The grinders are the best thing about this book, but 2x72” belt grinders plans are now free on the web


Videos

Don't be this guy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEOTtslHARQ

Heat Treating Basics Video-downloadable
Right click and save this. Watch it once a day for 10 days http://www.archive.org/download/gov.ntis.ava08799vnb1/ava08799vnb1_512kb.mp4

Safety-video
Right click and save this. Watch it once a day for 10 days http://www.howtomakeaknife.net/FreeStuff/SafetyVideo.wmv

Many knifemaking videos are available, some better than others

The best beginner videos I have seen:
“Steve Johnson-Making a Sub-Hilt Fighter”

"Ed Caffrey - Basic Bladesmithing-Full DVD-ISO"

“Custom Knife Sheaths -Chuck Burrows - Wild Rose”
Paul Long has 2 videos, his sheath work & videos are fantastic and recommended, but more advanced-with inlays, tooling and machine stitching

Green Pete's Free Video
Making a Mora bushcraft knife, stock removal, hand tools, neo tribal / unplugged heat treat
Use a piece of known 1084 steel, not a file. This as an example of doing it by hand with few tools
"Green Pete" posted it free
Be sure to look at the other titles I mentioned too - spend some time searching knifemaking torrents

Greenpete Knifemaking Basics-on TPB
http://thepiratebay.org/torrent/499...femaking_Basics_-_Make_a_Mora_Bushcraft_Knife

How to download that video
http://www.utorrent.com/help/guides/beginners-guide

Videos for rent,read the reviews, Some good, some bad, expect to wait months and there have been no new videos in years.
http://smartflix.com/store/category/9/Knifemaking


Knife Design:
Think thin, simple and fixed
Forget swords, saw-teeth, guthooks, crazy grinds and folders for your first knife

Look at hundreds of photos
Lloyd Harding drawings, Loveless book & Bob Engnath Patterns
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=603203

Bob Engnath Patterns PDF http://www.mediafire.com/?qgx7yebn77n77qx

Start with a drawing and post it, we love photos
French curves, graph paper and erasers are vital tools
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_bHFtVNs9tWA/TEj5Quiq1ZI/AAAAAAAAAI0/rn2EoHoXpVc/s1600/The+French+Curve.jpg

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1147466-How?p=13120810#post13120810

Then a cardboard cutout template & with handles, pins and such
Use playdough to shape a comfortable handle, good handles are not flat

How to post a photo
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...AL-Displaying-your-photographs-on-BladeForums



Draw Filing Demonstration
YouTube video -Draw Filing-for a flat finish http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dec78RQsokw

Nick Wheeler- Hand sanding 101 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4x4QLpfnk

Steel
The “welding steel” at Home Depot / Lowes is useless for knives
Forget about lawnmower blades ,files, railroad spikes and other unknown junkyard steels
For the work involved, it is very cheap to buy and use a known good steel
You will spend more money on sandpaper or soda pop than you will for steel

If you send out for heat treating, you can use
Oil quenched O1, 1095, 1084
Or air quenched A2, CM154, ATS34, CPM154, 440C, Elmax plus many others.

For heat treating yourself with minimal equipment, find Eutectoid steel and quench in Canola oil.
1084FG sold by Aldo Bruno is formulated for Knifemaking, Cheap & made for DIY heat-treat.
http://njsteelbaron.com/
Phone # 862-203-8160
His telephone service is better than his website.

Suppliers List
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=699736

Heat Treating
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9143684&postcount=7

You can send blades out for heat treating at $10 or $15 per blade for perfect results

Air Hardening Stainless Steel Only
Buck Pau Bos -Be sure to check the Shipping and Price tabs
http://www.buckknives.com/index.cfm?event=bio.paulBos#
http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/privacy.php#services

Oil Hardening Carbon Steels and Air Hardening Stainless Steel
http://www.petersheattreat.com/cutlery.html
http://www.knifemaker.ca/ (Canadian)

FAQ's
http://www.hypefreeblades.com/faq.html

1095 is a bad choice for a beginner with limited equipment to HT themselves
1095 is "Hypereutectioid" and needs precise temperature control and proper fast quench oil Like Parks 50 or Houghton K
Kevin Cashen - 1095 - hypereutectoid steel
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/673173-Working-the-three-steel-types

If you are sending one or 2 knives out for heat treatment, use 154-CM or CPM-154 CPM-s35vn Elmax, and ship it out to TKS -Texas Knifemaker Supply
It's the cheapest way to do 1 or 2 due to minimum charges


Quenchants for Oil hardening steel
Forget the Goop Quench and Motor oil, especially used oil

Use commercial quench oil & match oil speed to the steel type
Explanation and classification oil speeds
http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?28197-Hardening-II-Quenching

Grocery store canola oil works well enough for your first knife-if you use the right steel like 1084

Brine and water are cheap for "water hardening" steels W1 and 1095, but use fast oils Parks 50 & Houghton Houghto Quench K
If you use water or brine, expect a broken blade

Hot steel beats plastic, Don't quench in a plastic pail

Glue – Epoxy
Use new slow setting 30 min high strength epoxy to attach handles and seal out moisture
Slow epoxy is stronger and gives you time to work
prep, measure, mix are key in glueing.
Surface Prep is vital, drill tang holes/ grind a hollow, roughen the surfaces with abrasive or blasting is best
Ensure the surface is clean including fingerprints, wear vinyl or nitrile gloves
Use Acetone or Blasting
Don't over-clamp a “glue starved joint” is weak - adhesive is squeezed out

West Systems G Flex http://www.westsystem.com/ss/g-flex-epoxy/
Find it locally http://www.westsystem.com/ss/where-to-buy/
Brownell's Acraglas
JB Weld-leaves a grey line


Grinder / Tools

Hand Tools
You can do it by hand with files and abrasive like the Green Pete video.
Use 1084 instead of a file, spheroid annealed steel is butter soft

Stacy - 10 Tools
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1049666-Ten-Tools?p=11983527#post11983527

Filing jigs
http://www.flemingknives.com/imagesPrime/FileStation/KPicB007.jpg
Http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8486/8152684286_312b9fc8da_b.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9iNDRwwBQQ#t=330

Grinders
A professional three or four wheel 2x72 is worth it
In my opinion, variable speed and a small wheel attachment are essential on a good grinder.
Tracking problems are usually solved with belt tension. It needs to be way tighter than you first think.

Entry Level Grinders
Sears Craftsman 2x42 belt grinder
Low Speed Modification Craftsman 2x42 belt grinder http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qfYT_m2Tw0


Commercial Production 2 x 72” Belt Grinder Reviews
http://www.prometheanknives.com/shop-techniques-3/grinders


DIY 2 x 72” Belt Grinders

KMG Clone Free Plans
http://www.metalwebnews.com/manuals/knife-grinder.pdf

NWG No Weld Grinder $25 plans
http://usaknifemaker.com/plans-for-the-no-weld-grinder-sander-nearly-50-pages.html

EERF Grinder (EERF =“Free” backwards)
http://www.wilmontgrinders.com/Pages/EERFGrinder.aspx
http://blindhogg.com/blueprints.html
http://polarbearforge.com/grinder_kit.html

What Belts to buy?
Every maker has a different preference, new belts come out all the time, search for recent threads.
Ceramic, trizact and structured belts are expensive and have long life. Aluminium oxide are cheap and wear quickly
Some belts have rigid backing, J-flex have soft backing and can blend curves.
Blaze and Cubitron are popular


VFD Variable Speed made simple

Step pulleys are not as cheap as you may think
Maska steel pulleys are good, plus shaft, bearings, belt

It all adds up to 1/2 the price of a sealed class NEMA 4 VFD like a KB Electronics KBAC-27D

I like direct drive with no belts, a VFD and 3 phase motor for about $200 over the price of the step pulleys with fine instant control.

NEMA 1 VFD’s will keep your fingers out, but the metallic dust intrusion will smoke it.


Motor
3 phase 220v 1.5 HP motor, TEFC, frame 56 or 56C,
RPM is up to you some use 1700 RPM at double speed.
Make sure it has a footed base for the KMG and NWG, or a C flange face mount for Bader, Bee, Wilton and GIB styles.
I get them on ebay, even with paying $100 for shipping to Canada I save $ on used motors

The 1.5 HP combination is the most common
It allows you to plug into any 110vac, 15 amp outlet.
A 2 HP motor requires a 220vac input.


VFD
KBAC-27D
http://www.kbelectronics.com/Variable_Speed_AC_Drives_Inverters/AC_Drives_NEMA_4X.html
http://www.kbelectronics.com/manuals/kbda_manual.pdf
Use the Distributor Locator to find a local source, online sources may be cheaper.

There are cheaper units, but the only VFD I have found that runs a 1.5 HP motor on a 110v 15 amp input is the KBAC-27D

It is NEMA 4, sealed from metal dust

Good community and company support, manuals, hook-up diagrams, photos and settings.
If you buy a bargain vfd, you're stuck with a chinglish manual and ridiculous programming.

Travis W reports running a 2 HP on a 110v circuit, but I haven’t tried it.

Hookup is simple
http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/VS-setup.html


Safety Equipment
Protect your -Eyes, Ears, Fingers, and Lungs – remove jewellery and use safety gear.

Respirators
Chronic lung disease and cancer really suck the joy out of life.

If you can't breathe, nothing else matters.

Wearing a mask and glasses on the top of your head doesn't Count.

The minimum I would consider are silicone half masks with a P100 Filter
The silicone masks are softer and fit better
3M 7500
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediaw...Ox_Uev7qe17zHvTSevTSeSSSSSS--&fn=CH7500FP.pdf

and North 7700
http://www.amazon.com/North-Safety-770030L-Silicone-Respirator/dp/B002C08YCW
http://www.amazon.com/North-7580P100-P100-Particulate-Cartridge/dp/B000UH6PSE/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_b.

Use a VOC & P100 combo cartridge for acetone and glue fumes.
Prefilters can snap over the main filter for longer life.
There are 3 sizes of face piece, get fitted in person

Shave, also test the fit every time.

For beards
3M PAPR
Resp-O-Rator
3m Breathe Easy
Trend Airshield Pro
Air Cap II


Search

This searches BF well.
http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=011197018607028182644:qfobr3dlcra

Get rich making knives ?
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...knife-making-worth-it?p=11980504#post11980504

Visit a shop in person
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1166688-How-to-get-a-shop-invite

V35 July 23, 2014
Countavatar.jpg
 
I suggest that you finish the profile of the handle and drill any pin holes you want before it gets heat treated.

Otherwise you will need Carbide drill bits to get though the steel and they cost far more than 75 cents.
 
bigboysbushcraft said:
GEDC1084.jpg

GEDC1083.jpg


I will be sending it in for heat treating thinking of doing something to the handle tho lol
Click to expand...

You know, what you have ground out for a blade screams kitchen knife handle to me. A straight bevel across the flat part that you haven't touched yet, and I'd use the hell out of that in my kitchen. I 'm biased though, because my primary knife in the kitchen is a cleaver style knife, rather than a traditional chef's knife.
 
bigboysbushcraft said:
I see your point I did come off a little insulting like I said I am sorry and I love the art that is made. On the same token you are taking all of the usefulness out of a knife and making it an art form. It is like putting together a show car and not driving it. It is not logical. The knives are very pretty and I guess I do not make knives I make tools if you guys call the art you are doing knives then I guess I made a tool in that video I apologize for any confusion.
Click to expand...

I like how you apologize for being insulting and then insult us again. What in the hell gives you the idea that knives here aren't made to be used? As far as I can tell, all the knives made by makers here are made to be used first and foremost. The art angle adds character to the knife.

You talk about how we make "art" and you make "tools." Your "tool" won't be much of a tool at all when the edge rolls over from minimal use because you ruined the heat treat. And that has nothing to do with how "blacksmiths for hundreds of hundreds of years had other ways of tempering/hardening a blade that did not consist of thousands of dollars of equipment."

Then you suggest that anyone who takes offense to your offensive statements is a knife snob. Lol you got some nerve. Some of the guys around here are super nice by turning the other cheek and helping you out. I just wanted to let you know you are wrong for how you came in here making claims that "we are taking the usefulness out of a knife," which is essentially calling our knives useless. Taking responsibility and apologizing for being insulting doesn't mean much when you throw out another insult with your next breath.

I'm sure you're oblivious and probably think you're the victim here and people are just giving you a hard time. That is not the case. You might want to re-read your posts and think about how abrasive(and downright offensive) they sound. As someone stated before, a humble pill would serve you well.
 
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Wow there are a lot of ruffled feathers and all kinds of defensive rhetoric going on here. I have no comment on that except that I agree with both sides to one degree or another. OP - Keep it up, the info you are and will learn here is so valuable and will make your future advise to "the common working man" all the better. A very noble venture in and of it's self. I decided to learn this stuff initially so as to be able to make a quality fixed blade for myself, cheaper than I could buy one. That hasn't exactly gone as planned because with just what I've bought and acquired thus far I could have a pretty impressive collection of factory knives. I'm not disappointed, on the contrary I am gaining the knowledge and equipment to produce hundreds of quality knives so I guess it's really about the long term investment.

What is crazy is the amount of disinformation that this thread contains. Even to someone with as little knowledge and experience as myself. Nicholson files are made of 1095? HT in a camp fire? HT in a toaster oven? (tempering sure but that is not what was advised) Advice to follow the HT regime in "The $50 Knife Book"? I'm glad I didn't start reading this before I spent the last year and a half absorbing as much good info from here as possible. Good luck to all the newbies reading this and having to sift out the good info from the bad.
 
Edited to remove comments that could be construed (and fairly so) as rude and directed at the op.

-------------

Even with very modest tools you can do good work. It will take time and effort, but that's okay! I believe you can do good work, just takes some humility, practice, research, effort... all of that stuff that is a part of being a craftsman. I hope you find some of these comments motivating. Don't give up!
 
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Personally, I think many people are biting their tongues.. and I can't..

I don't think bigboy read any of the forum before he decided to show the world his amazing idea.. which isn't amazing at all. Great, he is trying.. so should I go take a picture of my child's fort I made and post it in an architectural forum and boast how easy and cheap it was to make. Then explain how it will be as durable and useful as a fort made by that tree house guy on whatever cable channel that is... NO.

Yay for trying. Booo for coming off as arrogant. Boo to me for speaking my mind?
 
OK, I'm finally going to step in.

I think the knife BigBoysBushcraft made is pretty crude...and that is what he said it is. Not very good and certainly nothing new. This was his first thread, and I suspect his first knife. He may not have any previous knife making skills. My first knife wasn't much better.
I really don't think he is trying to be insulting...just uninformed and inexperienced. After all, this is the best knife he has ever made, and he is proud of it.

I also think that if BBB had filled out his profile, and people knew more about him and his situation ( age, location, hobbies, occupation/student, etc), it may have helped.

I think that the people trying to explain the difference between this knife and a good knife are getting a bit upset that the OP doesn't understand the difference. The Counts post and Shaws offer to do the HT were the most helpful. BBB should take the time to read that and then proceed with new knife projects. From here we can only wait and see what BBB does next.

Why doesn't everyone take a couple deep breaths, and just hit the BACK button unless they have some constructive advice for BBB. While I don't agree with many of BBB's thoughts/opinions on knives, it is his thread ... and his opinions. Let's cut the new kid some slack.


If this turns abrasive, I'll be sending people emails. - The Moderator
 
I hope the OP follows through with this as well as reads everything he can find in the forums.
Seems to have the ability to not take offense at criticism and I think that is a commendable trait.
With a bit of reading and a lot of practice he could become a good knifemaker.
Then 10 years from now he can look back on this thread as a record of his starting point in the world of hand made knives.
If I can do anything to help, send me a PM.
 
woops, I posted without reading all the new posts... "New response" :thumbup: I am glad to see where this is goin, I hope we can help you understand and appreciate why many makers put so much time into their knives.. Once you get to the point where you spend enough time learning the function aspect of knife making, then you will prob eventually want to make your knives "look" somewhat tidy like you put some effort into them :) As already said, most of the knives made here are made to be used first and foremost. Good luck with the knife making sickness ;) :D

~Paul
My Channel Lsubslimed
 
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Stacy, I'm offended by your constant double posting.

:p

Hope I didn't come off as too harsh either. Reading it back, it does look kinda rude. I apologize if it looked that way. I try not to say anything that I wouldn't say in person. I probably would have said most of it, but in a joking manner.
 
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