$0.75 Start to finish bushcraft knife in less time then it takes to get a pizza.

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If a finger or part of my hand makes contact with it on one of my knives.

i will de-horn it. The spine is an area that many makers and production knives have left at right angles and is almost sharp to the touch.

I radius such areas so they are comfortable with extended use.
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
If a finger or part of my hand makes contact with it on one of my knives.

i will de-horn it. The spine is an area that many makers and production knives have left at right angles and is almost sharp to the touch.

I radius such areas so they are comfortable with extended use.
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Also looks gorgeous (imo). A spine may not have a whole lot of contact, depending on the design, but compare a rounded spine from Nick Wheeler to a spine with 90° corners. A sharp spine is preferable if the user may need to use it to spark a ferro rod, but other than that I almost always prefer the corners be knocked off.
 
I changed my mind on the grind now a double bevel instead of having a double beveled edge. It is razor sharp and shaves just fine I should have started with regular double bevel.
GEDC1092.jpg
 
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Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
You would be surprised at how the cord feels with the method I gave. It will be a solid as the thrower handles shown...just much better looking. The epoxy fills the cord pores and spaces, but does not "coat" it. The result is a solid as rock handle. The grip is excellent, as there is no resin coating to make it slippery, and the spacing between the wraps is deeper.
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On a thrower, you want the slip......retention is the last thing you want, with handle throws, you want release!

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
bigboysbushcraft said:
I changed my mind on the grind now its single bevel instead of having 2 bevels. It is razor sharp and shaves just fine I should have started with single bevel.
GEDC1092.jpg
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That is what I refer to as a design modification! Or plan and simple, a DM. See I was going to make this 9" Bowie but I changed my mind and made a 4" Paring knife! Yah Right? :D

Enjoy your single bevel only,
if you are right handed you will notice that the blade wants to roll over to the left when cutting.
 
I screwed up must have been tired last night. The knife is still double bevel but I took off the secondary cutting edge and went straight down so its a v edge. The best picture I see resembling it says double bevel sharp. I figure this will be easier to hone in the field and seams to be sharper. Its still on a 3/8th blade so I think its still going to work well for bushcraft.
 
I got it to useable state within 34 mins. Now is time for the ummm toppings yes I will call them toppings. I spent alittle bit of time rounding the edges if I did want to wrap it in paracord this may be what I do but I am just cleaning it up right now thinking of the heat treating.

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I think you're describing a zero edge (in Spyderco nomenclature). Traditional scandi edges are as such. They allow for a more acute apex while still being relatively thick at the spine or wherever the primary starts.
 
yeah I thought it was scandi just did not want to get that wrong. Same type of grind as my mora it seams to work well on this type of blade. Is this going to have issues heat treating? having a sharp edge and then thick spine its going to have alot of issues with the heat treating. I have seen alot of blanks killed coming out of HT.
 
Good question. On the whopping two knives that I made I've left them pretty thin at the edge. The knife I posted was ht'd twice. The first time the ricasso didn't harden like I wanted (I was foolishly going for a hamon... too many things at once), and also, the very thin tip warped a little. If you decide to make a 2 brick forge I highly suggest a muffle. I'll post pics of my set-up if, later down the road, you decide to make one.

I wonder if the teeth on a file knife are stress risers? Anyone? On the files that I made klo's with I ground off all the teeth. didn't matter because they never got a proper ht anyway.

I like the rounding you've done. I'd have rounded the spine instead of the tang, but that's just preference. I don't much care for wrapped tangs and the rounding will make it more difficult to fit scales. On your next knife, should you decide to go with scales, attach the scales first then shape the handle to include rounding of the tang. Don't overheat epoxy though. Are you intending to keep the teeth on the spine? It looks a little weird having the spine above the plane of the tang, but a wrap should fix that. The belly of the tang looks abrupt at the guard and butt. I'm pretty picky about handle & scale shapes, but again, just preference.
 
yeah it seams to be coming together it does not feel to bad in the hand right now but yeah if I put some scales on it now I may have to make them fit inside a little as the handle is still pretty wide. If not I may wrap it in paracord or even look around see if I can do some leather work and make a handle with a couple layers of leather to build it up but then I would have to worry about water getting into the leather and metal and rusting.
 
bigboysbushcraft said:
.....I ....... just did not want to get that wrong.
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Being wrong isn't a problem. Repeating a mistake is. :D

I have been using a HSS parting tool to scrape the high spots on my blades. Since I don't have a surface plate, or a nice grinder for blades, and my grinding hands still wobble, it helps me to find the high spots and sand them down with ease.

I just lay it on sideways and pull, scraping the blade. The high spots are quickly revealed. It is much easier to find them with one scrape than with repeated sanding strokes.

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yeah the blade has a couple of low spots I an trying to get to. I am working on a stromp and black polishing compound to bring the blade to a shine and get all the imperfections out of it.
 
I saw an example recently where the maker drilled small holes around the perimeter of the tang, he then braided leather around the periphery. Looked very cool, but I'm doubtful about the ergos. As you point out, corrosion would be an issue.

If you wanted to use leather, you'd need to grind the tang down to a stick tang, then use leather washers for a handle like on a kabar. If you ever decide to try this, be sure to compress the leather first, then be sure to seal it properly.
 
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