2018 BF Traditional Knife

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4ZVCcNP.jpg

This is the smooth red delrin model Buck had in the late 80s
 
4ZVCcNP.jpg

This is the smooth red delrin model Buck had in the late 80s
There is one modification that turned a Stockman into one of my favorite carry options. One straight edge, one bellied blade, and a cap lifter, on a serpentine styled frame for added ergonomics.
I have modded a few (3 so far) Spey blades on Stockmans into cap lifters. The one thing that this requires is a large ricasso, much like the one found on the knife above.

Edited the pic to show the changes made to the Spey.
2018-04-14 16.05.42.jpg
 
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BUCK 300 series pros & cons:

First let me say that I am a fan of Buck knives, but here are a few things to consider.

Pros:
All stainless blades & springs
Possible blade steel upgrade
Buck's 'forever' warranty
Choice of cover material with or without cover pins


Cons:
Three spring design (resulting in a lot of wasted frame space and wider overall build)
'Saber grind' (I doubt Buck will set up to do a run of FFG for a few hundred knives, but it would be nice)
Notoriously weak spring pulls

Personally, I prefer no shield and loath plastic shields anyway, especially glued on as they tend to pop off. A pinned metal shield would be cool. I think Buck could do better with the current 300 series design, but they are good quality US made work knives overall.

Still like the barehead 112 with elk covers and S30V drop point blade better! :cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:

JMHDAO :D
 
I think everyone excited about a Buck forum knife is expecting something extra special and good, so gunstock jack makes valid points.

I have no problem paying GEC price for a Buck of similar design and build quality.

Id rather go GEC if Buck cant meet the quality and build standards the forum expects in a classic slip joint.
 
I'm late to this thread (about 580 posts late :eek:), probably too late to make suggestions about what kind of knife a 2018 BF Traditional Knife should be. But I'm not going to let that stop me! :rolleyes: (And despite what many on The Porch might expect, I'm NOT going to suggest a canoe because I realize not all of us have the refined taste to appreciate that flagship pattern. ;))

How many of us have a 3.5" knife with spey and wharncliffe blades?? How many of us even know a maker who provides that option?? Yet how many of us, having such a knife brought to our attention, honestly admit, "I NEED a knife like that!!"?

Obviously the improved improved mini trapper deserves strong consideration, especially if we could find someone who would make it for us with popular poplar burl covers complete with image of a Wookie (third knife shown below)!!

Had Buck actually make up some samples of the 301. Like I said, access isn't a problem! ;)

Top is Stag.
Middle is Burlap Micarta.
Bottom is Poplar Burl

View attachment 886494

- GT
 
Cons:
Three spring design (resulting in a lot of wasted frame space and wider overall build)
'Saber grind' (I doubt Buck will set up to do a run of FFG for a few hundred knives, but it would be nice)
Notoriously weak spring pulls
Unfortunately, these three cons are Big to me. If there are three springs, I want three full size blades. I am not a fan of light pulls, I have sold two or three as well as gifted 4 or 5 to family and friends that had pulls less than a Victorinox... I actually prefer a 6-8 pull, as I have stout nails and good hand strength.
 
Maybe we can request strong pulls since we are making other requests:) I went to the local Bass Pro to compare the 301 and 303 side by side in hand this morning!
 
I think everyone excited about a Buck forum knife is expecting something extra special and good, so gunstock jack makes valid points.

I have no problem paying GEC price for a Buck of similar design and build quality.

Id rather go GEC if Buck cant meet the quality and build standards the forum expects in a classic slip joint.

I definitely wouldn't expect Buck to make a GEC. The Buck 301 is a very different knife than anything that GEC makes. The manufacturing and construction is very different. Expect a Buck from Buck.

If you aren't familiar with the current production 301, pick up one. They're inexpensive knives and a good value. But don't expect strong snap or flush springs or thin grinds. Barry's description is accurate. Three springs. There will be empty space in the wells for the secondaries. It's a very robust working knife.
 
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I have to admit that I have not read the entire thread but I really DO LOVE the idea of a Buck knife as a Forum knife. Personally I would have suggested a model 501, but one of their slipjoints with stainless steel sounds really nice.
It's actually an enjoyable read from the beginning if you want to become more familiar with the ins and outs of determining the Traditional Forum Knife... I have been following the action and would describe it as admirable passion mixed with joy, frustration, premature pinnacles and sheer painstaking anticipation :D. If you want to skip all of that... a quick summary is that Buck knives has proven to be a cooperative participant and we are waiting to hear what GEC has in mind ;)

- Kevin
 
Here are some photos of the well and springs on a fairly recent 301.

38gxlRJ.jpg
How did you repair those two snapped blades and make them look factory fresh?
:eek:;):D


Lol, yea... that will bother me. gunstockjack gunstockjack had said this, but seeing it is another story... I Know that will get to me, as opposed to just thinking it would...

Thank you both.
 
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It's a very robust working knife.
Unfortunately, it is not robust in the springs... I would think a firm grasp would risk causing the blades to compress and contact the springs. This would cause damage similar to the blade rap on the recent run of 71s, where GEC tried to stuff as much blade as possible into the well...
 
Unfortunately, it is not robust in the springs... I would think a firm grasp would risk causing the blades to compress and contact the springs. This would cause damage similar to the blade rap on the recent run of 71s, where GEC tried to stuff as much blade as possible into the well...

I've never noticed the blades hitting the spring. It's just a soft open and close. I would not rely on the spring keeping the blade open if you are applying pressure in the direction that it closes. Although I would prefer stronger action, It is manageable for me. But I'm also comfortable using a knife with no spring at all like an Opinel without a lock, for example. For guys who are accustomed to modern knives with locks, it may be a big surprise.

The robustness comes from the construction. No thin and soft brass liners. The liners are steel. 3 thick springs. The blades are also thick at the flats. The stout saber ground blades are best suited for something like cutting heavy plastic, etc rather than slicing since that benefits from a thinner blade that has less drag. The thick blades will have no flex, unlike a thinner blade, so they can cut through hard materials very well.
 
'Saber grind' (I doubt Buck will set up to do a run of FFG for a few hundred knives, but it would be nice)

To help dispel this particular point, I saw my Buck guy at the gym today and asked him about this issue. He is 95% sure it won't be a problem to get the Full Flat Grind that has been clarified here. Also, to do a run of 250 with the FFG would be a non issue.

I plan to bug him about the pull, though my gut says it's an engineering issue. They have the tooling set up for the current design and doubt any changes can be made. However, I will definitely follow up with him on that.
 
I've never noticed the blades hitting the spring. It's just a soft open and close. I would not rely on the spring keeping the blade open if you are applying pressure in the direction that it closes. Although I would prefer stronger action, It is manageable for me. But I'm also comfortable using a knife with no spring at all like an Opinel without a lock, for example. For guys who are accustomed to modern knives with locks, it may be a big surprise.

The robustness comes from the construction. No thin and soft brass liners. The liners are steel. 3 thick springs. The blades are also thick at the flats. The stout saber ground blades are best suited for something like cutting heavy plastic, etc rather than slicing since that benefits from a thinner blade that has less drag.
I meant that the springs would not offer resistance to further compression, once in the blade well.
 
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